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Pro Comp Rims Hubcentric Rings?

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Old 12-12-2008, 08:56 PM
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Hubcentric is where the center hole in the wheel is the same diameter as the hub. This way the weight of the vehicle is being shared by the hub, and not just the wheel studs. This becomes more important as you go with larger tires, as their added weight can cause the wheel studs to snap.

A wheel that is not hubcentric (doesnt center on the hub) has a center hole that is larger than the hub. This is generally not a wanted feature on wheels. And mostly likely means the wheel was designed for a different vehicle.
Old 12-13-2008, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by speedy9mm
How do you know when buying new rims that they are hubcentric? I understand what it is, but how can you tell what aftermarket rims are hubcentric to the vehicle? I was just going to buy some new rims and tires after the new year and want to make sure I do not end up with broken studs on the road or trail from the wrong rims.
Find out what the center bore of the wheel is. The Dana 44s on the Rubi is 71.5mm. I would presume it the same no matter which JK you own. Most of the aftermarket wheels are made to fit a variety of vehicles. Most ProComps I looked at were 83.058mm. Not sure if rings would work since I think they would interfere with the center cap, should you choose to use it.

Bottom line is if the wheel says Hub Centric for JK, then the center bore is 71.5mm. If it doesn't state it's Hub Centric but the center bore is 71.5mm it will fit like it should. The Hutchinson Rock Monsters are an example of that. I found it difficult to get the center bore information from most wheel manufactures.
Old 12-13-2008, 12:31 PM
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my procomps did not cone with center caps? Is it bad to run without em? Which is more important to have, the rings or the caps?
Old 12-13-2008, 02:04 PM
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hub rings =purpose
center caps= looks
decision ?
Old 12-13-2008, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by red rcok
hub rings =purpose
center caps= looks
decision ?
Ah I thought the caps where to prevent rust from the parts underneath.
Old 12-14-2008, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Hellbound13
Ah I thought the caps where to prevent rust from the parts underneath.
not a chance parts underneath mine had rust on them already when I swapped out my 18's, just paint the center
Old 12-14-2008, 05:24 AM
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I am not convinced that hubcentric is needed. 90% of all wheels sold are not hubcentric and yet there is no epidemic of problems out there. If you use the correct lug nuts and torque settings you will be fine IMO.
Old 12-14-2008, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BaltChief
I am not convinced that hubcentric is needed. 90% of all wheels sold are not hubcentric and yet there is no epidemic of problems out there. If you use the correct lug nuts and torque settings you will be fine IMO.
Yeah, this is where I have fallen out on this issue. Going to run without the rings.
Old 01-15-2009, 02:36 AM
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Yes,, but 90% of wheels and tires sold are not oversized for the original design. The original wheels are designed for the hub to share the weight with the studs,, once you go oversized, you increase the weight and more important the "leverage" the wheel has on an axle.. I'm going with a ring,, for about $12 a set? you cant really go wrong..
Old 02-26-2009, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Cruiser
I'm going with a ring,, for about $12 a set? you cant really go wrong..
Where are you getting them for $12 a set. The only ones I can find for my cragar soft 8's are from 1010tires.com and they want $56 shipped for plastic rings

Not going to happen for that much....I'm not having problems just figured it wouldn't hurt to have them.

I was also told from one company that a ring that big isn't going help unless it's so tight that you need to hammer them into the rim


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