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PR44, but while I'm at it, I should...

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Old 03-01-2015 | 07:36 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jeepken
Stock axle was sleeved and gussetted. From what I can tell the knuckle was loose which caused the ujoint to blow which caused both inner and outter driver axles to blow which caused the ball joints to twist themselves out. With that and the crashing of the C onto the rock, the distance between ball joints is changed on the C. Now the new ball joints will not stay pressed in given the change in distance. I haven't found a solution to change the C. The rest of the housing is fine.

I saw this as an opportunity to upgrade. I could buy the PR44 and put my rubi locker in to save money. Then my rubi locker goes out and I'm stuck getting another Rubi locker. Bah!! Why not spend a bit more and get the ARB is where I'm leaning.

I like that the Reid knuckles will give more clearance and have the dual stop (hence my loose bolt on stock knuckle). I figure the drag link will certainly help with my 3" lift geometry. I hadn't found anything bad on the CurrentLynk steering so I'm interseted to hear more if anyone has experience. I like the "1 spare part fits them all" of that system.
There is an ox locker replacement for a rubi locker as well.
Old 03-01-2015 | 08:27 PM
  #12  
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If you already bent a sleeved and gusseted Rubi 44, then I don't see any point in buying another stock Rubi 44 and "beefing it up". A PR44 is going to be way beefier than any beefed up Rubi 44. Start with a PR Unlimited 44 that has 1/2" wall thickness tubes and increased castor, add the RCVs, add the Reid knuckles, and you're good. I don't think the ARB is going to be all that much more reliable than the Rubi locker. At least I've never been impressed with reliability with the ARBs I've had in the past. Good luck whatever you decide to go with.
Old 03-01-2015 | 08:32 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by MOPWR2U
If you already bent a sleeved and gusseted Rubi 44, then I don't see any point in buying another stock Rubi 44 and "beefing it up". A PR44 is going to be way beefier than any beefed up Rubi 44. Start with a PR Unlimited 44 that has 1/2" wall thickness tubes and increased castor, add the RCVs, add the Reid knuckles, and you're good. I don't think the ARB is going to be all that much more reliable than the Rubi locker. At least I've never been impressed with reliability with the ARBs I've had in the past. Good luck whatever you decide to go with.
i dont see how that makes it "way beefier" than a built up 44...

From what it sounds is a bj may have had play or failed wich in turn bent the c. when a bj goes on the rocks yours cs can have a bad day pretty quick. Were they stock bjs? From what we have so far its not necessarily justifying he needs a d60 or even stronger axle. I know brute4ce isnt on here, but i know he found a replacement c somewhere.
Old 03-02-2015 | 09:13 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
i dont see how that makes it "way beefier" than a built up 44...

From what it sounds is a bj may have had play or failed wich in turn bent the c. when a bj goes on the rocks yours cs can have a bad day pretty quick. Were they stock bjs? From what we have so far its not necessarily justifying he needs a d60 or even stronger axle. I know brute4ce isnt on here, but i know he found a replacement c somewhere.
Interesting point. For less than the cost of a PR44, one could yank the stock tubes and go to 1/2" wall and then truss that. The DOM wouldn't cost much at all and retubing honestly isn't that hard. Then, buy D60 Cs and outers (cut them off a junk yard axle if you really want to save money). You just built the PR44/60 hybrid for way less. And then you can set the Cs to whatever angle you want.
Old 03-02-2015 | 09:37 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Interesting point. For less than the cost of a PR44, one could yank the stock tubes and go to 1/2" wall and then truss that. The DOM wouldn't cost much at all and retubing honestly isn't that hard. Then, buy D60 Cs and outers (cut them off a junk yard axle if you really want to save money). You just built the PR44/60 hybrid for way less. And then you can set the Cs to whatever angle you want.
So there is an option to buy new C's and weld them on? Any reduction of strength going that route? My shop didn't offer that option.

The BJ's were Synergy and 6 months old on their first wheeling day when all this blew up. I've already replaced them and the axle shafts. Thanks to all the replies I may go with a PR44 unlimited and just swap out my Rubi stuff. Get the Reid knuckles and keep my new Ten Factory axles. Still thinking though...
Old 03-02-2015 | 09:50 AM
  #16  
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If im not mistaken no one makes an aftermarket c that fits stock tube size. Im thinking thats why he said to retube it. Most shops will not offer this as its a lot more "custom" and they probably have no experience doing so. May also have to machine the ends of the tubing to fit the housing. You could also try and find stocker d44 cs somewhere to salvage and put on yours. Also custom and not many shops will do this id bet. Depending on your ability to do it or fond a shop to do it as said you could make a hybrid thats just as good as a pr44/60 hybrid for significantly less... It would also allow "true" 35 spline axles shafts up front
Old 03-02-2015 | 11:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
i dont see how that makes it "way beefier" than a built up 44...

From what it sounds is a bj may have had play or failed wich in turn bent the c. when a bj goes on the rocks yours cs can have a bad day pretty quick. Were they stock bjs? From what we have so far its not necessarily justifying he needs a d60 or even stronger axle. I know brute4ce isnt on here, but i know he found a replacement c somewhere.
Just look at a stock Dana 44 and a PR Unlimited 44 side by side, out of the vehicle, lying on the shop floor. Everything about the PR 44 is "way beefier" than a stock Rubi 44. Same goes for a Teraflex 44 housing. Adding sleeves and gussets still leaves the Rubi 44 lacking compared to the aftermarket housings. Has anyone really proven that the sleeves and gussets people add to the stock axles help? In this case they didn't; he already had a built up Rubi 44, and it failed. No point in doing the same thing again. I would be seriously considering a 60 if I were in his shoes.
Old 03-02-2015 | 11:53 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MOPWR2U

Just look at a stock Dana 44 and a PR Unlimited 44 side by side, out of the vehicle, lying on the shop floor. Everything about the PR 44 is "way beefier" than a stock Rubi 44. Same goes for a Teraflex 44 housing. Adding sleeves and gussets still leaves the Rubi 44 lacking compared to the aftermarket housings. Has anyone really proven that the sleeves and gussets people add to the stock axles help? In this case they didn't; he already had a built up Rubi 44, and it failed. No point in doing the same thing again. I would be seriously considering a 60 if I were in his shoes.
As i said could have been a bj fail.. A built rubi axle next to a prorock will be just as good. Especially if the pro rock is jot trussed. Hell a sleeved and trussed d44 with gussets would be damn near identical. Hell could even add a jantz kit and have a stronger ring and pinion than a pro rock for less also. My guess is you'll have to go google jantz to see what im referring to. Id be looking to see if it was in fact a bj failure. Knuckles should not have play. All the axle damage may be related to one cause wich may not justify a d60

Last edited by Maertz; 03-02-2015 at 12:22 PM.
Old 03-02-2015 | 11:56 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MOPWR2U
Just look at a stock Dana 44 and a PR Unlimited 44 side by side, out of the vehicle, lying on the shop floor. Everything about the PR 44 is "way beefier" than a stock Rubi 44. Same goes for a Teraflex 44 housing. Adding sleeves and gussets still leaves the Rubi 44 lacking compared to the aftermarket housings. Has anyone really proven that the sleeves and gussets people add to the stock axles help? In this case they didn't; he already had a built up Rubi 44, and it failed. No point in doing the same thing again. I would be seriously considering a 60 if I were in his shoes.
Yes, there was a comparison done. As expected, the aftermarket housings were still stronger. However, it was not some massive margin. Let's be clear - the housing is the only difference here. It doesn't correct the size of the ball joints which are good for 32" tires, it doesn't replace the crap unit bearings, and it doesn't offer a stronger R&P. I have yet to see someone bend a properly gusseted C. It could happen, but I've seen a D60 C bent too. If you are worried about the tubes, sleeve and truss it. I look at a PR44 next to my axle and laugh at its toothpick tubes, weak-as# ball joints, and silly unit bearings that belong on a kids tricycle. It doesn't even have free-spin hubs. If someone has a Rubi housing that they beef up and it takes a crap, then I can understand an argument to buy the Rubi PR44 housing. The stock housing is worthless without anything in it, so not worth upgrading until it is bent. Really though, the chance of damaging a beefed housing is extremely low.
Old 03-02-2015 | 11:57 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
As i said could have been a bj fail.. A built rubi axle next to a prorock will be just as good. Especially if the pro rock is jot trussed. Hell a sleeved and trussed d44 with gussets would be damn near identical. Hell could even add a jantz kit and have a stronger ring and pinion than a pro rock for less also. My guess is you'll have to go google jantz to see what im referring to. Id be looking to see if it was in fact a bj failure. Knuckles should not have play. All the axle damage may be related to one cause..
Jantz is the shi#.


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