jeepken

just empty every pocket. I know I know.

Had a short prelim discussion with NR4x4 and has had me researching all weekend. Down the rabbit hole and now need some help sorting through what I should do.

Story--bent C is forcing an upgrade. I'm settled on PR44 with ARB and RCV. Question is what all should I do while I'm in there. I think I'm settled on Reid knuckles since the stockers are what led to the blown axle. That means a flipped drag link is needed. I really like the CurrectLync drag link since it allows me to flip with no kit/bracket. Hey, why not get the matching tie-rod before my stocker blows right? Those all sound pretty logical and seem to be worth doing all at the same time.

So what else? I like the idea of ram assist, but another $1k hurts. Do I need upper control arms at this point? What else am I missing?

I'm on 37's now and plan to stay that way for at least next 5 years while I beef up and wheel harder each month.

JE8154

The stock knuckles didn't cause your bent C's and they would have bent if you had reid knuckles too. You can get a synergy drag link by itself too, but regardless of which brand you get you will still need to get a raised track bar bracket. The currie drag link doesn't eliminate the need for the track bar and drag link to be parallel.

Invest2m4

I know you've pretty much made up your mind, but I hate to see hard earned money go to waste. What about replacing your housing and adding beef to it doesn't bend again?

I didn't see what axle you had, but another option is spending $1700 for a new Rubicon axle. Add gussets and truss/sleeves and you are good to go. Is a PR44 stronger than that? Yeah, a little. But if you can break a beefed rubi axle, you can break a PR44.

Maertz

Trail-Gear Rock-Assault? Ram Steering Assists Kit

TheDirtman

The currie link steering sucks balls and is crazy expensive. You could buy synergy a couple times over and still have money left. It was said you still need a raised track bar bracket of the flip.

nthinuf

You indicated bent c's, bent knuckles, and then a blown axle. What all is actually bent/broke?

Your profile indicates you have a rubicon? That gives you the option of buying a bare PR/Tera housing for around 2k and swapping your current components into it. Or buying a new stock housing for under 1k, beefing it up, and then swapping your stuff into it. Or maybe just grabbing a set of offsets to correct the camber? Hard to say since we don't actually know what the problem area is...

Do you want to fine-tune the angles or reposition the front axle? The lowers are enough for caster/pinion, so I think I would worry about the front housing before adding a second set of front arms, or a rear set.

Ryan0260

If the problem is just a bent C, running 37's and a non fortified axle is probably the cause. Don't see how the knuckles come into play unless there are other issues..

jeepken

Stock axle was sleeved and gussetted. From what I can tell the knuckle was loose which caused the ujoint to blow which caused both inner and outter driver axles to blow which caused the ball joints to twist themselves out. With that and the crashing of the C onto the rock, the distance between ball joints is changed on the C. Now the new ball joints will not stay pressed in given the change in distance. I haven't found a solution to change the C. The rest of the housing is fine.

I saw this as an opportunity to upgrade. I could buy the PR44 and put my rubi locker in to save money. Then my rubi locker goes out and I'm stuck getting another Rubi locker. Bah!! Why not spend a bit more and get the ARB is where I'm leaning.

I like that the Reid knuckles will give more clearance and have the dual stop (hence my loose bolt on stock knuckle). I figure the drag link will certainly help with my 3" lift geometry. I hadn't found anything bad on the CurrentLynk steering so I'm interseted to hear more if anyone has experience. I like the "1 spare part fits them all" of that system.

TheDirtman

That "one extra" part to carry is nearly $100 and the offset forged ends are over $150 each and I can tell you they bend relatively easy. The rods are heavy and cause the TRE's to become loose after a short time. The foam washer thingy they came up with to replace the grease boot (because the rubber boot tears when the tie rod flops and grease gets everywhere) wears out in about a month. If you are dead set on the currie link set up I can make you a deal and sell you the set for half what currie sells it for.

The Ruff Stuff offset tie rod set is a no brainer at $125 and right now they are running a sale. The synergy drag link can be run flipped or not and is a good choice for a drag link with reasonable to replace rod ends the have more articulation then the currie.

jeepken

Thanks Dirtman. I've been looking at the Synergy DL and am now leaning that way. Definitely much cheaper. Will look at that TR you mentioned.