toymaster

I'm not debating either u-joints or CVs. I'm sure I'd chose the CVs but, I have a set of evo axles. I picked them up for less than $300 last year and they are $1,000 a set. A business was closing up shop...after a couple months of emails he finally sold them to me at my price . (When it's something I don't need I'm a hell-of-a trader.)

This part adds to your post. You are correct the R&P is the weak link now in your set-up. My choice is to use CTM or spicer joints. If i use CTMs I will be in the same position as you. The spicer joints would act as the weak link. But who wants to be repairing a u-joint on the trail??? If you ever do break the R&P there is a way to stuff a dana 50 R&P in there. run, break, upgrade...run, break, upgrade...

jkerr

Wow, great deal! Can't wait to see pics of your rig.

D50 R&P? Really? That's another awesome idea. Hope I never have to do it, but will keep that in mind if I hose these gears. toymaster, you are a wealth of knowledge. Appreciate your posts.

Alaska-HWY JK

You're not understanding death wobble, you have a whole new front end. If it was properly torqued on install that won't be the issue. You have bump steer and now know that you need a bracket. Aside from you're choice on draglink and tierod you have the same front end as me, you'll like it. I've been running mine since May with no issues. I have a Fox steering stabilizer that I've never installed either, this thing is solid.

Dynatrac

jkerr-
We're glad you're happy with the PR44. As you've so clearly stated, once you've seen stock and a PR side by side, you really understand the difference.

Like you, I prefer to build without consideration of a weak link. I want it all as strong as I can build it.

Dynatrac

The Dana 50 gear set probably wouldn't be considered an upgrade.

Ring gear diameter-Pinion shaft diameter-pinion sp dia/count
D44- 8.5" ------------1.375"---------------1.125"/26
D50- 9" --------------1.375"---------------1.125/26
JK 44-8.8"------------1.625"---------------1.375/24

jkerr

Thanks for the clarification on DW. There has been so many things attributed to it that I'm not sure what is what. Everything is torqued to 125 ft.lbs unless otherwise specified. I'm an aircraft mechanic. Don't leave home without a torque wrench.

I took it off road a bit today. I was able to climb some steep hills I've never been able to get up before. Not rocketing up either. Slow and smooth. I've always had ARB lockers. The PR44 is the only difference. It is awesome!


The PR44 is axle 1 of 2. You guys are building my PR60 now. Ordered via Northridge4x4. It also has every strong part I could get. Can't wait to get it. Thank you for engineering one heck of a good product. You guys are the standard that everyone wishes they could get to.

jkerr

Back to some alignment questions...

I got my tape measure and angle finder out today to look at the alignment. I know the trackbar bracket is part of the problem, but it just doesn't feel right at any speed. I have a lot of play in the steering and a strong pull to the left.

What I've found is my upper control arms are set to what looks to be 19" on both sides and my lowers are set to 23". I didn't take them off, but they look exactly the same side to side. With an angle finder on the bottom of the C's, however, I'm getting different readings. The drivers side is about 5.5-6 degrees and the passenger side is around 8-9 degrees. Is it normal to have a control arm set longer/shorter on one side to compensate? 3-4 degree difference seems like a lot to me.

I didn't get a chance to measure toe yet, but I think it may be a bit off as well. Would toe being center or positive cause slow steering response and wondering around? The tie rod is set with exactly the same threads showing on both ends. It looks to be installed properly. I have to move the wheel quite a bit to get the jeep to respond. More than I use to anyway.

sneck

I hate to necro an old thread, but you are having the exact same issues I have right now! just put in a PR44, and I can't get it to feel right. with all the arms the same length, I have more caster on one side vs the other. or if anyone knows whats wrong, that would be great! tf LCAs, RK ucas, TF track bar

Cocajun

If you have the prosteer ball joints they are very tight when new. I had the exact same issue when I put on my PR44. I had a wandering feel in the steering. It gets better after you get about 500 miles on them. If you are certain everything else with the steering is correct the new ball joints may be the problem.

olram30

teraflex recommends setting lca's at different lengths. never tried it, but it might be worth trying
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/75302.pdf