jkerr

I had a non-Jeep shop install a front PR44 and am having some alignment issues. I'm getting bump-steer and it is wondering around on the road. My 3" TF lift is basically the same and I had zero issues previously. I'm trying to narrow down what the problem may be so I can walk them through fixing it. I'm hoping you can help.

The parts we installed were an Unlimited PR44 (increased pinion angle), currie heavy duty steering system, reed knuckles and CV axle shafts. I reused my TF adjustable trackbar, upper/lower control arms and TF steering shock w/the relocation bracket (moved shock above tie-rod). I also installed a new coast driveshaft. I have a standard 3" TF lift w/JKS disconnects.

I have seen the alignment post on Project-JK; however, I haven't personally measured everything yet. The shop didn't give me a print-out of the final results either. The Pinion angle looks dead on. The caster feels right when I drive. The wheels are centering quickly after a turn. Camber should also be ok since I have new prosteer ball joints and a brand new axle. The specs they should have dialed in are:

CASTER + 5°-6°
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.65°

CAMBER − 0.25° (fixed angle) ± 0.37° (-0.62° to +0.12°)
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE ± 0.5°

TOTAL TOE-IN - 0.20° (0.10° each front wheel) ±0.03°
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.04°

Rear Axle
Rear Camber: 0° to -0.50°
Rear Total Toe In: 0° to 0.5°
Rear Thrust Angle: 0° ± 0.25°

Do the above alignment specs look ok for my setup? The adjustable trackbar is mounted in the stock location. Do I need a bracket to raise it? Did I miss any parts? I will also post pictures as soon as I can get them off of my camera.

Thank you!

toymaster

You changed to a high steer (a very nice one!) and did not change the angle of your track bar. The draglink, that is now 3" higher, and the track bar have to be at the same angle (or plane).

Easy fix is to add height at the axle with a bracket, or you can use a lowering bracket at the frame. (You need to add 3" of height to the track bar)

You just upgraded the hell out of your front-end

jkerr

Thanks toymaster, believe you hit the nail on the head. I'm still learning. Thank you!

Here's some pics of the install. If you guys see anything else out of whack let me know:






PR60 on the rear is next. Can't wait!

Alaska-HWY JK

Toymaster nailed it. You need to raise your trackbar at the axle. Just remember most of the kits are for stock axles not 3" tubes and you'll need longer bump stops.

TeraFlex

Raise the axle end or drop the frame end with a drop bracket kit.

jkerr

What drop bracket kits do you recommend? What is easier to install? The axle end raise or the frame drop?

Thank you everyone!

TeraFlex

TeraFlex doesn't make a axle bracket to raise the trackbar, however there are several brands out there. TeraFlex has a kit (#1600444) that has the trackbar drop bracket, brace kit. Retails for $270.99. Nice Reids, got those on mine too.

jkerr

Thank you, I'll check them out. Love TF. You guys have awesome products. BTW, I also have the speed bumps. Very nice!

toymaster

My Look at your frame track bar bracket...I would not chose a lower frame bracket, there will be clearance issues. This is because you only have a 3" lift. I would go with an axle bracket. Currie and Clayton make some heavy ones. I run a JKS, which is a little thinner.

My next upgrades are the reid knuckles, currie steering system, currie track bar, prosteer BJs, along with an axle upgrade. So I really enjoyed the pics. I have a rubi 44 that is reenforced the usual way and a set of superior evo axles waiting to be installed. I am still debating on my u-joints.

While you have the welding done for the bracket think about some CA skids.

jkerr

I've been looking at a frame bracket, but you make a good point. I'll check out Curry and Clayton. Great idea. Thank you!

Sounds like you are going to have as much fun as I've been having. It is like Christmas opening boxes and then transforming the Jeep. These parts are strong. Can't wait to try to break them !!

I was debating u-joints versus cv's as well. The CV's are so strong that if something gives it isn't going to be them. I certainly don't want to blow gears on a trail; however, the PR44 setup is a heck of a lot stronger than stock. And in reality, you still have to pull an axle shaft or two either way. It would certainly cost more to fix gears, but I believe that using super strong parts throughout will improve reliability across the board so I don't break something in the first place. Time will tell...

I also like being able to turn in 4wd without the back and fourth rocking. I tested turning on the pavement yesterday (slow of course) and it was as smooth as an all wheel drive car. Turning radius improvement alone made the swap worthwhile for me.

Funny, I didn't even think of this although my old axle had them. Good idea. I'll order a set.

My goal is to have the trackbar bracket and the rest of the front end finished next week. It is driveable, but not safe for high speed. Death wobble would be an absolute guarantee without repositioning the trackbar.

BTW, if anyone is reading this post and wondering if it's worth the money and effort to go with Pro Rock... The answer is yes. The difference in build quality and strength is remarkable. When you put a PR44 side by side with a beefed up D44 it becomes clear as day why they are more expensive. Not only do you get more strength, you get a ton more ground clearance as well. IMHO, it is better to wait a bit longer for an upgrade and save the $$ than trying to strengthen a stock D44/D30. It is simply is not possible to get a standard D44/30 anywhere near as strong. 3" tubes, crazy strong C's, pumpkin design and the high-pinion, reverse cut gear setup makes all of the difference in the world.

Everyone's input is very much appreciated. This is my first full front end upgrade. Couldn't have, and likely wouldn't have, done it without you guys. JK Forum Rocks!