View Poll Results: Which brand driveshaft?
Coast
12
14.63%
Tom Woods
53
64.63%
Rubicon Express
4
4.88%
J.E. Reel
8
9.76%
Teraflex
5
6.10%
Voters: 82. You may not vote on this poll
POLL: which brand driveshafts?
10-03-2009, 04:33 AM
#1
JK Newbie
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POLL: which brand driveshafts?
Been researching online and everyone seems to have a different opinion on which brand to get so it's hard to tell without a poll. looking to get front and rear at the same time.
Coast
Tom Woods
Rubicon Express
J.E. Reel
Teraflex
2dr, manual, 3" TF lift, already have all the control arms. any other things to factor in?
Coast
Tom Woods
Rubicon Express
J.E. Reel
Teraflex
2dr, manual, 3" TF lift, already have all the control arms. any other things to factor in?
10-03-2009, 07:36 AM
#2
JK Freak
We have REs on my wife's JK (bought it that way), Teraflex on my son's 04 TJ, and Woods on our 01 TJ (bought it that way).
All have worked great without problems.
Apparently, Coast has a history with drag or race cars or something like that. So, they are well balanced, and David (Northridge) has a high degree of confidence in them.
Personally, all else being equal, I'd buy from Tom Woods.
I have met him in person several times. He has sponsored 4x4 events in Montana and South Dakota which I have attended. The year before last in Moab, I ran into him at Moab Brewery and he bought me, my brother, and my nephew dinner.
Last EJS in Moab when running Behind the Rocks with him in a group, I asked him about my 2 dr JK, he told me to wait until the stock ones fail. When I asked him about 1310s vs. 1350s, he said he'd make more selling me 1350s, but that I should consider buying 1310s because they would be enough for my 2dr Rubi on 37s, offer a greater range of motion (flex), and if I ever had a joint fail, there were probably 3-4 1310 spares in our group and no 1350s.
His flange design is pretty cool as well.
Anyway, because he is such a stand up guy, I'd buy from Tom Woods.
Kind of the same reason that most all other parts I buy come from David (Northridge4x4).
All have worked great without problems.
Apparently, Coast has a history with drag or race cars or something like that. So, they are well balanced, and David (Northridge) has a high degree of confidence in them.
Personally, all else being equal, I'd buy from Tom Woods.
I have met him in person several times. He has sponsored 4x4 events in Montana and South Dakota which I have attended. The year before last in Moab, I ran into him at Moab Brewery and he bought me, my brother, and my nephew dinner.
Last EJS in Moab when running Behind the Rocks with him in a group, I asked him about my 2 dr JK, he told me to wait until the stock ones fail. When I asked him about 1310s vs. 1350s, he said he'd make more selling me 1350s, but that I should consider buying 1310s because they would be enough for my 2dr Rubi on 37s, offer a greater range of motion (flex), and if I ever had a joint fail, there were probably 3-4 1310 spares in our group and no 1350s.
His flange design is pretty cool as well.
Anyway, because he is such a stand up guy, I'd buy from Tom Woods.
Kind of the same reason that most all other parts I buy come from David (Northridge4x4).
10-04-2009, 04:41 PM
#4
JK Super Freak
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10-04-2009, 06:32 PM
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JK Newbie
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Of the choices you offered, I'd take Tom Wood's. He's a cool guy and his products are top notch.
But I went with Tatton. Very high quality, low cost. http://utah.citysearch.com/profile/34691739/murray_ut/tatton_s_driveline_svc_auto.html
I just saw that he's got an eBay store now: http://stores.shop.ebay.com/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTS__W0QQ_armrsZ1
But I went with Tatton. Very high quality, low cost. http://utah.citysearch.com/profile/34691739/murray_ut/tatton_s_driveline_svc_auto.html
I just saw that he's got an eBay store now: http://stores.shop.ebay.com/TATTONS-DRIVESHAFTS__W0QQ_armrsZ1
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10-12-2009, 05:46 AM
#9
JK Junkie
you measure so they make you the right size shaft.. mine was 36" even. when you lift a JK, the distance from the pinion flange and the transfer case increases, making you need a longer shaft.
personally, I would go Tom Woods 1310, and during installation, you will NEED an inch lb beam style torque indicator to measure the current preload. I had to drive 50 miles to find one. (it was like $70)
Then when you install the new flange and new pinion nut, you need to make the preload the SAME as it was before you touched anything. torquing the nut is not as important as the preload. If you tighten it too much, you will need a new crush sleeve.
good luck. (its not hard once you know what your looking for)
personally, I would go Tom Woods 1310, and during installation, you will NEED an inch lb beam style torque indicator to measure the current preload. I had to drive 50 miles to find one. (it was like $70)
Then when you install the new flange and new pinion nut, you need to make the preload the SAME as it was before you touched anything. torquing the nut is not as important as the preload. If you tighten it too much, you will need a new crush sleeve.
good luck. (its not hard once you know what your looking for)
