Please critique this proposed build
#1
Please critique this proposed build
Just purchased 08 4-door rescue green, 32" stock tires, auto with the 3.73 axle ratio to replace our '97 Landrover Disco we use to cross a river to get to our cabin in West Virginia.
Pics of river are attatched.
Disco is lifted (OME) but only 30" tires....looking to go a little higher with the Wrangler and some other improvements. I have a great 4x4 shop that specializes in Landrover and Jeeps ready to do the work.
Other than this river crossing and some light forest roads, I don't plan any rock climbing or heavy off road stuff.
What I have learned from you all (and am very grateful for) -
step 1 - order OME lift from Northridge - most likely go with the heavy springs, + adjustable track bar. See how the ride is and how the Jeep looks.
step 1 (a) - order river raider snorkel (color matched)
step 2 - Decide on 33's or go 35's. With the 32's or 33's the 3.71 axle should be just "okay"
step 3 - If I want the extra clearance after seeing how the lift works, go to the 35's plus re-gear. Not sure what gear ratio except higer than 4.1
step 4 - decide if a 1" body lift does anything else for me.
Main issue here is ground clearance for the river and breakover angle (which the wrangler should easily handle).
The river is VERY seasonal...it can be walked across most days, in the summer just a trickle. But in the spring or fall with a thunderstorm it can rise 2- 4 feet in a matter of hours then take 1-3 days to go down.
The first pic is it in normal type stage, any truck can make it. The second is at flood (April '07 Nor'easter). We had to wait 3 days for it to go down.
We don't have a pic of the river between these two stages, when fording is iffy. Two weeks ago the river was high (4 ft +) with the Disco I had my tow/escape package up, my neighbor across the river waiting to help with his truck and we made it. Very much like the major fording pic on this forum...something that would be in the top ten in youtube. Water over the hood. But the ford is now somewhat V shaped and rather quick. You are in the river only for 5 - 7 seconds or so.
Pictures are toward my neighbors house, i.e. the way we leave the cabin to go home.
Any suggestions on the Build, or other ideas would be most appreciated.
Thanks
The Big Boo
Pics of river are attatched.
Disco is lifted (OME) but only 30" tires....looking to go a little higher with the Wrangler and some other improvements. I have a great 4x4 shop that specializes in Landrover and Jeeps ready to do the work.
Other than this river crossing and some light forest roads, I don't plan any rock climbing or heavy off road stuff.
What I have learned from you all (and am very grateful for) -
step 1 - order OME lift from Northridge - most likely go with the heavy springs, + adjustable track bar. See how the ride is and how the Jeep looks.
step 1 (a) - order river raider snorkel (color matched)
step 2 - Decide on 33's or go 35's. With the 32's or 33's the 3.71 axle should be just "okay"
step 3 - If I want the extra clearance after seeing how the lift works, go to the 35's plus re-gear. Not sure what gear ratio except higer than 4.1
step 4 - decide if a 1" body lift does anything else for me.
Main issue here is ground clearance for the river and breakover angle (which the wrangler should easily handle).
The river is VERY seasonal...it can be walked across most days, in the summer just a trickle. But in the spring or fall with a thunderstorm it can rise 2- 4 feet in a matter of hours then take 1-3 days to go down.
The first pic is it in normal type stage, any truck can make it. The second is at flood (April '07 Nor'easter). We had to wait 3 days for it to go down.
We don't have a pic of the river between these two stages, when fording is iffy. Two weeks ago the river was high (4 ft +) with the Disco I had my tow/escape package up, my neighbor across the river waiting to help with his truck and we made it. Very much like the major fording pic on this forum...something that would be in the top ten in youtube. Water over the hood. But the ford is now somewhat V shaped and rather quick. You are in the river only for 5 - 7 seconds or so.
Pictures are toward my neighbors house, i.e. the way we leave the cabin to go home.
Any suggestions on the Build, or other ideas would be most appreciated.
Thanks
The Big Boo
Last edited by cuteandcool; 06-11-2008 at 10:51 AM.
#3
seems fine. since you're planning on doing river crossings regularly i guess you need the snorkel (i hate them).
a few things you may want to address.
1. electronics. if you get stuck in 4' of water, it's going to come in. From what i understand there's some electronics (i think the ecu but i'm not sure) in front of the shifter in the dash. You also have some under the hood. You may want to find a way to waterproof these or move them higher.
2. starter: some people add drains to theirs. it's really up to you. But they don't like baths for extended periods of time.
3. breathers!!!! you have several. re-route them into your cowel or somewhere high. you have axle breathers, probably tcase and trans too.
4. switch for the electric fan. They don't like running submerged.
5. You didn't mention a winch. i would consider hydrolic with the silonoids relocated inside or up high. Simply because it sounds like there will be frequent dunkings. Electric winches have lots of issues after extended submergings.
6. a 1" body won't do much for you on making your rig better off road, but it will help you clear bigger tires. You can fit 33's pretty much stock, most add a 2" lift (like me). 35's you can run with a 2.5" lift. So really it's up to you on the body lift.
my .02
a few things you may want to address.
1. electronics. if you get stuck in 4' of water, it's going to come in. From what i understand there's some electronics (i think the ecu but i'm not sure) in front of the shifter in the dash. You also have some under the hood. You may want to find a way to waterproof these or move them higher.
2. starter: some people add drains to theirs. it's really up to you. But they don't like baths for extended periods of time.
3. breathers!!!! you have several. re-route them into your cowel or somewhere high. you have axle breathers, probably tcase and trans too.
4. switch for the electric fan. They don't like running submerged.
5. You didn't mention a winch. i would consider hydrolic with the silonoids relocated inside or up high. Simply because it sounds like there will be frequent dunkings. Electric winches have lots of issues after extended submergings.
6. a 1" body won't do much for you on making your rig better off road, but it will help you clear bigger tires. You can fit 33's pretty much stock, most add a 2" lift (like me). 35's you can run with a 2.5" lift. So really it's up to you on the body lift.
my .02
All good tips. I was about to suggest that you might not need the snorkel until I read the part about the river surging. Sounds like a solid plan. Have fun, and be safe.
#4
Well, that a narrow focus for a rig, but, as your primary bogey...I'd say you want hight and clearance for the crossings, and the 35's would be better than 33's for example.
A wider stance would help in cross current situations....even 2' of water against a side can push you downstream....its a lot of force...and the more stability the better....especially to compensate for the higher center of gravity.
For the money...I'd do a Teraflex 2.5" lift over a OME 2", and I'd add a 1" BL to make the 35's fit w/o further mods....and to add to your fording depth a bit more.
Going from stock 32's to 35's picks the entire JK up, diffs too, by 1.5" all by itself.
Add 2.5" of suspension lift and 1" of BL, and the part you want to arrive drier in is lifted a total of 5" (1.5" + 2.5" + 1" = 5")
If you get a wider stance via new rims with ~ 4.5" - 4.75" of backspacing instead of the 6.25" OEM BS, that widens your track by about 3" or so....and the taller tires leave more water running UNDER your drivetrain, rather than flowing against it, etc....and a wider tire, say a ~ 12.5" section width, will provide more lateral stability as well. (North Ridge also has high quality wheel spacers that can space the rims you have out to the same BS, if you want to keep the OEM rims/not buy new rims, etc...)
35's also have the proven ability to ameliorate the longer JK's break over angle, and all that's necessary to fit them is either a 2" BL, or a 2.5" SL + a 1" BL.
The snorkel of course is a no-brainer.
Don't do a regear until you've lived with it for a while, and see the performance change, as regearing will typically drop your fuel economy, albeit improve acceleration.....but again, you will be at a higher rpm when cruising, which eats gas.
Going from a 32 to a 35 is a ~ 8.6% change in effective gearing.
Going from 3.73's to a 4.11 is a ~ 9.25 % Change, so over all, your RPM would be ~ the same/a bit higher, etc...
But if you now cruise on 32's at 2,000 rpm with 3.73's....swapping on 35's would drop your RPM to ~ 1,828 rpm, only ~ a 172 rpm change....
If you feel that its worth the $ to regear to get back the 172 rpm, sure, why not...but I'd recommend giving the 3.73's a chance to see how they feel, etc.
A wider stance would help in cross current situations....even 2' of water against a side can push you downstream....its a lot of force...and the more stability the better....especially to compensate for the higher center of gravity.
For the money...I'd do a Teraflex 2.5" lift over a OME 2", and I'd add a 1" BL to make the 35's fit w/o further mods....and to add to your fording depth a bit more.
Going from stock 32's to 35's picks the entire JK up, diffs too, by 1.5" all by itself.
Add 2.5" of suspension lift and 1" of BL, and the part you want to arrive drier in is lifted a total of 5" (1.5" + 2.5" + 1" = 5")
If you get a wider stance via new rims with ~ 4.5" - 4.75" of backspacing instead of the 6.25" OEM BS, that widens your track by about 3" or so....and the taller tires leave more water running UNDER your drivetrain, rather than flowing against it, etc....and a wider tire, say a ~ 12.5" section width, will provide more lateral stability as well. (North Ridge also has high quality wheel spacers that can space the rims you have out to the same BS, if you want to keep the OEM rims/not buy new rims, etc...)
35's also have the proven ability to ameliorate the longer JK's break over angle, and all that's necessary to fit them is either a 2" BL, or a 2.5" SL + a 1" BL.
The snorkel of course is a no-brainer.
Don't do a regear until you've lived with it for a while, and see the performance change, as regearing will typically drop your fuel economy, albeit improve acceleration.....but again, you will be at a higher rpm when cruising, which eats gas.
Going from a 32 to a 35 is a ~ 8.6% change in effective gearing.
Going from 3.73's to a 4.11 is a ~ 9.25 % Change, so over all, your RPM would be ~ the same/a bit higher, etc...
But if you now cruise on 32's at 2,000 rpm with 3.73's....swapping on 35's would drop your RPM to ~ 1,828 rpm, only ~ a 172 rpm change....
If you feel that its worth the $ to regear to get back the 172 rpm, sure, why not...but I'd recommend giving the 3.73's a chance to see how they feel, etc.
Last edited by TEEJ; 06-11-2008 at 11:28 AM.
#5
Do you have guests come over? I was thinking this is a solid plan that you've articulate but then I thought A bridge might cost more but would outlast your next 5 cars. It will also increase the worth of the place if you ever find you want to sell.
By the way if that river has trout than I want one of those camps also!!!! Nice place.
By the way if that river has trout than I want one of those camps also!!!! Nice place.
#6
seems fine. since you're planning on doing river crossings regularly i guess you need the snorkel (i hate them).
a few things you may want to address.
1. electronics. if you get stuck in 4' of water, it's going to come in. From what i understand there's some electronics (i think the ecu but i'm not sure) in front of the shifter in the dash. You also have some under the hood. You may want to find a way to waterproof these or move them higher.
2. starter: some people add drains to theirs. it's really up to you. But they don't like baths for extended periods of time.
3. breathers!!!! you have several. re-route them into your cowel or somewhere high. you have axle breathers, probably tcase and trans too.
4. switch for the electric fan. They don't like running submerged.
5. You didn't mention a winch. i would consider hydrolic with the silonoids relocated inside or up high. Simply because it sounds like there will be frequent dunkings. Electric winches have lots of issues after extended submergings.
6. a 1" body won't do much for you on making your rig better off road, but it will help you clear bigger tires. You can fit 33's pretty much stock, most add a 2" lift (like me). 35's you can run with a 2.5" lift. So really it's up to you on the body lift.
my .02
a few things you may want to address.
1. electronics. if you get stuck in 4' of water, it's going to come in. From what i understand there's some electronics (i think the ecu but i'm not sure) in front of the shifter in the dash. You also have some under the hood. You may want to find a way to waterproof these or move them higher.
2. starter: some people add drains to theirs. it's really up to you. But they don't like baths for extended periods of time.
3. breathers!!!! you have several. re-route them into your cowel or somewhere high. you have axle breathers, probably tcase and trans too.
4. switch for the electric fan. They don't like running submerged.
5. You didn't mention a winch. i would consider hydrolic with the silonoids relocated inside or up high. Simply because it sounds like there will be frequent dunkings. Electric winches have lots of issues after extended submergings.
6. a 1" body won't do much for you on making your rig better off road, but it will help you clear bigger tires. You can fit 33's pretty much stock, most add a 2" lift (like me). 35's you can run with a 2.5" lift. So really it's up to you on the body lift.
my .02
Damdest thing, every hard crossing, my wife is laughing silly, thinking it's a carvival ride, this while I am pushing water in a 3 1/2 ft. bow wave and scared witless. oh well....I'f the river was any wider, it couldn't be done as it moves pretty swiftly just before flood level. Lots and Lots of rocks....
These "hard" crossings only occur 2-3 times a year. Some of the normal ones, though would scare most people off.
Thanks again.
The Big Boo
#7
Do you have guests come over? I was thinking this is a solid plan that you've articulate but then I thought A bridge might cost more but would outlast your next 5 cars. It will also increase the worth of the place if you ever find you want to sell.
By the way if that river has trout than I want one of those camps also!!!! Nice place.
By the way if that river has trout than I want one of those camps also!!!! Nice place.
As to trout, yes the property borders a stocked trout steam, and the land is bordered on the north by 8000 acre of Game Lands...deer, turkey and occasional bear in the pasture at times.
pics are at: http://www.picturetrails.com/gallery...onewolfalpacas
We have had many discussions about a bridge...a car bridge is $70,000 plus...
I am in favor of a motocycle/ATV bridge gotta be much less...Once we retire, it doesn't matter...just wait for the river to go down...but for now we get back to the ball and chain come most Mondays...
The Big Boo
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#8
Well, that a narrow focus for a rig, but, as your primary bogey...I'd say you want hight and clearance for the crossings, and the 35's would be better than 33's for example.
A wider stance would help in cross current situations....even 2' of water against a side can push you downstream....its a lot of force...and the more stability the better....especially to compensate for the higher center of gravity.
For the money...I'd do a Teraflex 2.5" lift over a OME 2", and I'd add a 1" BL to make the 35's fit w/o further mods....and to add to your fording depth a bit more.
Going from stock 32's to 35's picks the entire JK up, diffs too, by 1.5" all by itself.
Add 2.5" of suspension lift and 1" of BL, and the part you want to arrive drier in is lifted a total of 5" (1.5" + 2.5" + 1" = 5")
If you get a wider stance via new rims with ~ 4.5" - 4.75" of backspacing instead of the 6.25" OEM BS, that widens your track by about 3" or so....and the taller tires leave more water running UNDER your drivetrain, rather than flowing against it, etc....and a wider tire, say a ~ 12.5" section width, will provide more lateral stability as well. (North Ridge also has high quality wheel spacers that can space the rims you have out to the same BS, if you want to keep the OEM rims/not buy new rims, etc...)
35's also have the proven ability to ameliorate the longer JK's break over angle, and all that's necessary to fit them is either a 2" BL, or a 2.5" SL + a 1" BL.
The snorkel of course is a no-brainer.
Don't do a regear until you've lived with it for a while, and see the performance change, as regearing will typically drop your fuel economy, albeit improve acceleration.....but again, you will be at a higher rpm when cruising, which eats gas.
Going from a 32 to a 35 is a ~ 8.6% change in effective gearing.
Going from 3.73's to a 4.11 is a ~ 9.25 % Change, so over all, your RPM would be ~ the same/a bit higher, etc...
But if you now cruise on 32's at 2,000 rpm with 3.73's....swapping on 35's would drop your RPM to ~ 1,828 rpm, only ~ a 172 rpm change....
If you feel that its worth the $ to regear to get back the 172 rpm, sure, why not...but I'd recommend giving the 3.73's a chance to see how they feel, etc.
A wider stance would help in cross current situations....even 2' of water against a side can push you downstream....its a lot of force...and the more stability the better....especially to compensate for the higher center of gravity.
For the money...I'd do a Teraflex 2.5" lift over a OME 2", and I'd add a 1" BL to make the 35's fit w/o further mods....and to add to your fording depth a bit more.
Going from stock 32's to 35's picks the entire JK up, diffs too, by 1.5" all by itself.
Add 2.5" of suspension lift and 1" of BL, and the part you want to arrive drier in is lifted a total of 5" (1.5" + 2.5" + 1" = 5")
If you get a wider stance via new rims with ~ 4.5" - 4.75" of backspacing instead of the 6.25" OEM BS, that widens your track by about 3" or so....and the taller tires leave more water running UNDER your drivetrain, rather than flowing against it, etc....and a wider tire, say a ~ 12.5" section width, will provide more lateral stability as well. (North Ridge also has high quality wheel spacers that can space the rims you have out to the same BS, if you want to keep the OEM rims/not buy new rims, etc...)
35's also have the proven ability to ameliorate the longer JK's break over angle, and all that's necessary to fit them is either a 2" BL, or a 2.5" SL + a 1" BL.
The snorkel of course is a no-brainer.
Don't do a regear until you've lived with it for a while, and see the performance change, as regearing will typically drop your fuel economy, albeit improve acceleration.....but again, you will be at a higher rpm when cruising, which eats gas.
Going from a 32 to a 35 is a ~ 8.6% change in effective gearing.
Going from 3.73's to a 4.11 is a ~ 9.25 % Change, so over all, your RPM would be ~ the same/a bit higher, etc...
But if you now cruise on 32's at 2,000 rpm with 3.73's....swapping on 35's would drop your RPM to ~ 1,828 rpm, only ~ a 172 rpm change....
If you feel that its worth the $ to regear to get back the 172 rpm, sure, why not...but I'd recommend giving the 3.73's a chance to see how they feel, etc.
Your experience and the views of the folks here are literally priceless. I thank you so much.
The Big Boo
#10
sure thing......
there is no gauge on the North River...the closest one is on the South Fork
I have to use it as a substitute...when you see it at 4' it gets real fun....6' then your certifiable.
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?cb...te_no=01608000
The Big Boo
http://www.picturetrails.com/gallery...onewolfalpacas
there is no gauge on the North River...the closest one is on the South Fork
I have to use it as a substitute...when you see it at 4' it gets real fun....6' then your certifiable.
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?cb...te_no=01608000
The Big Boo
http://www.picturetrails.com/gallery...onewolfalpacas
Last edited by cuteandcool; 06-11-2008 at 11:53 AM.