Yeah - I don't see a huge gain in going to a pr44 other than better castor.
I trussed and sleeved, and gussetted mine myself so the cost was minimal. Not sure what it would cost to have a shop do it if needed. Maybe it would offset the price of a new housing? You still gotta pay to have the components swapped unless you can do that yourself.

I'm still running stock shafts in my d44 on 37’s for what it's worth :-)

 

I've seen the thread. RCV probably didnt pay Edward le Douche, so one problem equals a massive design flaw. I was an active member there for nearly a year. There is some good info and some not so good info. I dont think RCV shafts are a bad product, I just believe if it ain't broke, don't fix it. When you start breaking u joints on your axle shaft, consider your options.

 

Here you go Is RCV feeding me BS?

 

If that was a paying vendor he would have defended them to the death.

 

Running Artec's truss with 2.5" MetalCloak coils plus 1" spacer to level it out. Front's bump stopped to 3" since I'm running a flipped drag link. IIRC with Nitro sleeves (Hammer in) you can still fit 35 spline axles.

I'm running 5.38s with my '10 Rubi Unlimited, auto, 35" Nitto Trail Grappers. In the same boat, need new tires soon, I know I'll regret sticking with 35s. I'm gonna switch to GY MTRs in 37x12.50r17 since they're a couple lbs lighter than my 35" TGs. Hopefully I don't have balancing issues. 37" TGs are like 10-15lbs heavier.

IIRC Evolander (Anvil 4 door that Off Road Evolution brings to events) has been on the JKX twice with stock 44s and 37s and no breaks.

Current front end setup, still need to install my sector shaft brace.

 

I've been running 37's on D30 (Artec Truss/LCA Skids/Gussets) w/ stock shafts, and a HD44 rear on Alloy USA Shafts and posi-rear. Daily driver as well - zero issues. IMO - I agree w/ other post about the 44 upgrade, you could better spend that money else where. Consider the support kits (truss, sleeves, gussets, ball joints, etc) w/ labor and see what cost comparison is. Hydro assist or full hydro is always gotten positive feedback. RCV's seem the be the pinnacle of axel shafts... I would just keep some spares around to get you by in a pinch if you end up breaking on the trail, and/or waiting on replacements being shipped. As for gears, I went to 5.13 when I bumped up to 37's. After lots of asking around, and good feedback, I stayed away from the 5.38's b/c it's still my daily driver. Couple friends who went 5.38 on their daily drivers regretted it - while on the street anyway. Good luck w/ build. I noticed a big difference after gearing and 37's. Went w/ the Maxxis - and those suckers grab!

 

5.13's or 5.38's? My mechanic is saying the 5.38's will be a weak point due to the smaller pinion gear. Any feedback? 2008 Unlimited Rubicon, Automatic, on 37's.

 

5.38s with 37s for sure. Plenty run 5.38s with no issue. Really haven't been any cases of people blowing gears due to a weak point.

You can read my most recent thread for tons of feedback on this subject from other jeepers.

 

Socal hemihead... what sorta life is left on your 33s?

Interested in a trade for 37x12.50r17 mtrs? They're far from new but would work for a while till u buy new tires (get a feel for 37s in the mean time, for all u know they might not be for u and u may want 35s instead) pics on my ad in the billboard tires/wheels section

 

33's are just below 50% tread life. I can't trade just yet. I need to wait until my Jeep goes into the shop to get my upgrades done before I could fit 37's.