aekdbrich

X3. You will definitely need the extra torque if you are carrying a rack, really heavy bumpers/winch/etc.

Wgrin

I don't know I have steel front and rear, a winch, 35 tires on a 3.5 lift. Don't know how much extra weight there really is. Besides just saying go big or go home. There is a lot of factors don't just assume you need 4.88 . U road drive or off road more?

Ronstar83

Tough to figure it out.. Wish I could drive both on my rig! I am likely throwing a RIPP kit on it too so that changes things too. First step is gearing and Air Lockers. Then Supercharger. Anyone have a Ripp Kit on a manual and if so what gears for 35's lifted with bumpers? So many variables

Ronstar83

I guess my question is, I live in Oregon where the terrain is very hilly and mountainous. If I plan on throwing a RIPP kit on it do I go with 4.56's or 4.88's? I drive highway speeds about 70 mph and its my dd. I offroad about 5 times a year.. Not a weekend warrior. Not sure how this regear will effect its dd habits but the sluggish lag seems to be taking its toll on the engine. Its like taking of on a mountain bike in the 18th speed. But I don't it to feel like I'm unnessicarily Spinning wheels either.. Seems like the 4.88's may be overkill?? Hmmm..

Wgrin

Basically like this 4.56 = good performance and good gas mileage
4.88 = higher performance less gas mileage
I feel like 4.56 would have been the thing for my daily driving just for the sake of extra mpg

daneq

Totally agree.
I live at 4600' and with my '08 Rubicon, 3.8l, automatic running 35" pro comp ext at's the thing was gutless with the stock 4.10 gearing. After much deliberation I stuck in some 5.38. The fist couple hundred mile I thought I made a really bad choice. It seemed like it was a lot of over revving and my gas mileage dropped to 9 mpg. But... Reprogrammed the shift points with my superchips flashpaq and boy am I happy! Daily driving is getting 17 mpg with plenty of power, tows the bikes well and crawling on the rocks is insane, and when were up at 10,000' crawling up the mountains i would not change a thing. The point is do your homework and decide haw far you want to go, remember the whole package works together and there is no "right" way when only considering one perspective.

GunDude

Those with 4.88's/auto/35's. How often does it drop out of OD on slight grades,wind, etc.?

Phimosis

I'll chime in just in case anyone is wondering about the 2012's. I have a Rubi with the 5 sp auto, recalibrated with the AEV procal module. With 35" tires, the 4.10's were about perfect; 2250 rpm at 65 mph in high gear. It would cruise 80 mph without dropping out of high gear, even on mild grades. I went to 38.5" tires and still have the stock gears. Now it runs at 2,000 rpm at 65 mph and will still cruise at 80 in 5th, although it feels unstable at that speed now. Even around town it still feels ok, although definitely slower than with the 35's. I timed a 0-60 run and it did it in 9.0 seconds. With the 4.0 transfer case, 1st low tops out at 12 mph, compared to 10 mph with the stock 32" tires. 5th low now tops out at 53 mph, compared to 44 mph with the stock tires and 48 mph with the 35's.

dellpjJK

I ordered 488s last night, but wondering if I might have made a mistake. I have a 4 door 6 speed 08, live in flat delaware, but have a roof rack, heavy bumpers and 33's, also will be going to 35s or bigger soon. I think if I get a "large" set of 35's I'll be ok? I'm scared to put in the 488s in the mean time, if my 33s are short, i'll be 3K or more at 70mph... should I try to change to 4.56 before they ship? Currently running 3.21 and my complaint is not having any balls on the highway, not as much the low speeds.

Poser

If you're going to 35s, do the 4.88 set, meanwhile, you will have to live with it and slow down.
When you drive slow, you get used to it and everybody gets to admire your Jeep.