Piecing together a ProRock 44 Housing
#1
JK Freak
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Piecing together a ProRock 44 Housing
Ill be ordering a Prorock 44 JK housing for the front in the future, need your expertise to help me piece it all together. The Jeep (2008 4 door Jeep JK Sahara) will eventually be sitting on 37s w/ 17x9 beadlocks. I will assemble the housing in stages because this shit aint cheap... so It'll be many long awaited months before its fully complete and ready to slip under the Jeep.There's a JE Reel 1310 front driveshaft with OEM shaft/yoke that will mate to the axle. ARB Locker and chromoly shafts will be in my non rubicon D44s. So hopefully you guys can help me make a complete / capable axle.
ProRock Housing # DYN-DA44-3010-D is this correct PN for my application?
want choices for 5.13 gears and install kits
lockers, which ones?
ball joints?
Axles...stock, chromoly, or any other choices?
re-use stock dana 30 knuckles / break assembly?
Track bar brackets, raised / bolted / welded?
Gussets for inner C's or lower C's?
Lower Control arm skids needed?
Any modifications to housing for the EVO bolt on Coil overs?
I'll have an edited list as I piece it all together.
ProRock Housing # DYN-DA44-3010-D is this correct PN for my application?
want choices for 5.13 gears and install kits
lockers, which ones?
ball joints?
Axles...stock, chromoly, or any other choices?
re-use stock dana 30 knuckles / break assembly?
Track bar brackets, raised / bolted / welded?
Gussets for inner C's or lower C's?
Lower Control arm skids needed?
Any modifications to housing for the EVO bolt on Coil overs?
I'll have an edited list as I piece it all together.
#2
JK Super Freak
So funny, I was literally just doing this myself like 2 hours ago...my conclusion was that it is ultimately cheaper to just save and buy a complete axle from dynatrac
Paying for tax/shipping/labor for gears/etc makes it more expensive than a complete axle.
Paying for tax/shipping/labor for gears/etc makes it more expensive than a complete axle.
#3
JK Newbie
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i almost bought the unlimited axle with arb locker, 1310 yoke, and 4.88 gears installed by NR4x4 $3550. that way i can just do the rest myself. but decided to put that money to my savings and just save for the complete kit that way itll just bolt right in instead of staring at it in my room unfinished. lol
#4
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Originally Posted by inspect-a-home
Ill be ordering a Prorock 44 JK housing for the front in the future, need your expertise to help me piece it all together. The Jeep (2008 4 door Jeep JK Sahara) will eventually be sitting on 37s w/ 17x9 beadlocks. I will assemble the housing in stages because this shit aint cheap... so It'll be many long awaited months before its fully complete and ready to slip under the Jeep.There's a JE Reel 1310 front driveshaft with OEM shaft/yoke that will mate to the axle. ARB Locker and chromoly shafts will be in my non rubicon D44s. So hopefully you guys can help me make a complete / capable axle.
ProRock Housing # DYN-DA44-3010-D is this correct PN for my application?
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=382118"/>
want choices for 5.13 gears and install kits
lockers, which ones?
ball joints?
Axles...stock, chromoly, or any other choices?
re-use stock dana 30 knuckles / break assembly?
Track bar brackets, raised / bolted / welded?
Gussets for inner C's or lower C's?
Lower Control arm skids needed?
Any modifications to housing for the EVO bolt on Coil overs?
I'll have an edited list as I piece it all together.
ProRock Housing # DYN-DA44-3010-D is this correct PN for my application?
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=382118"/>
want choices for 5.13 gears and install kits
lockers, which ones?
ball joints?
Axles...stock, chromoly, or any other choices?
re-use stock dana 30 knuckles / break assembly?
Track bar brackets, raised / bolted / welded?
Gussets for inner C's or lower C's?
Lower Control arm skids needed?
Any modifications to housing for the EVO bolt on Coil overs?
I'll have an edited list as I piece it all together.
#5
JK Freak
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just keep saving and buy it complete. no hassle that way and u know it is all done correctly. mine are being built now. go with arb, rcv axles, and prosteers. cannot go wrong here. the part num ber will work for your application using an arb locker. r u sure udon't want to get the extreme duty 1/2" wall axle tubes? its like $100 more to go from 5/16" to 1/2". i would do a custom width to 68.5" to match a potential 60 going in the rear later. i would talk to off road evo about the bolt on coil over bracketry on the pr44. they will know exactly what is necessary
wanted to add: go with the 1310 hd ...not the oem replacement.
wanted to add: go with the 1310 hd ...not the oem replacement.
Last edited by rtguy1; 10-25-2012 at 01:39 AM.
#6
JK Freak
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Good information so far!
Really all I would want to do is purchase all the pieces of the puzzle then hand it to a shop and have them all put it together in one sitting, but you all are suggesting thats going to be more expensive? How much more? If it's only tax from piecing the parts individually then it shouldnt be too bad. One $ grand $ on parts in a month is more like my pace.
Question about the driveshaft...so if I went with the 1310 HD I would need to get a new driveshaft to mate with the PR44?
Really all I would want to do is purchase all the pieces of the puzzle then hand it to a shop and have them all put it together in one sitting, but you all are suggesting thats going to be more expensive? How much more? If it's only tax from piecing the parts individually then it shouldnt be too bad. One $ grand $ on parts in a month is more like my pace.
Question about the driveshaft...so if I went with the 1310 HD I would need to get a new driveshaft to mate with the PR44?
#7
JK Super Freak
Originally Posted by inspect-a-home
Good information so far!
Really all I would want to do is purchase all the pieces of the puzzle then hand it to a shop and have them all put it together in one sitting, but you all are suggesting thats going to be more expensive? How much more? If it's only tax from piecing the parts individually then it shouldnt be too bad. One $ grand $ on parts in a month is more like my pace.
Question about the driveshaft...so if I went with the 1310 HD I would need to get a new driveshaft to mate with the PR44?
Really all I would want to do is purchase all the pieces of the puzzle then hand it to a shop and have them all put it together in one sitting, but you all are suggesting thats going to be more expensive? How much more? If it's only tax from piecing the parts individually then it shouldnt be too bad. One $ grand $ on parts in a month is more like my pace.
Question about the driveshaft...so if I went with the 1310 HD I would need to get a new driveshaft to mate with the PR44?
Probably paying more per piece than buying all together.
Labor to assemble all the individual parts.
You're going to want to get a replacement 1310 driveshaft with replacement yokes from someone like J.E. Reel
It could be anywhere from a couple hundred to five or six hundred bucks or a thousand dollar difference, depending on what you go with, and who you have do the work.
If you will have more fun and don't care about possibly spending a little more, do it piece by piece. From your build list, it sounds like you can afford lol. Do your thing
Btw how do you like your BFH bumpers? I've been looking at getting those...I know they're pretty permanent.
Last edited by FlameRedJK; 10-25-2012 at 07:09 AM.
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#8
JK Freak
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It's going to be any parts that you get charged tax/shipping on.
Probably paying more per piece than buying all together.
Labor to assemble all the individual parts.
You're going to want to get a replacement 1310 driveshaft with replacement yokes from someone like J.E. Reel
It could be anywhere from a couple hundred to five or six hundred bucks or a thousand dollar difference, depending on what you go with, and who you have do the work.
If you will have more fun and don't care about possibly spending a little more, do it piece by piece. From your build list, it sounds like you can afford lol. Do your thing
Btw how do you like your BFH bumpers? I've been looking at getting those...I know they're pretty permanent.
Probably paying more per piece than buying all together.
Labor to assemble all the individual parts.
You're going to want to get a replacement 1310 driveshaft with replacement yokes from someone like J.E. Reel
It could be anywhere from a couple hundred to five or six hundred bucks or a thousand dollar difference, depending on what you go with, and who you have do the work.
If you will have more fun and don't care about possibly spending a little more, do it piece by piece. From your build list, it sounds like you can afford lol. Do your thing
Btw how do you like your BFH bumpers? I've been looking at getting those...I know they're pretty permanent.
I do alot of my shopping at Northridge, I just make sure I spend over $100 each time.
While were replacing drive shafts would it better to go with the 1350?
I love the front / rear BFH bumpers. Nice ground clearances and a simple lightweight design is what sold me on these. I know these will look nice with the new PSC narrow flares.
#9
I have to assume it is cheaper to buy a completed Pro Rock From us then to peice one together. The parts that we include on the build are discounted when you get them with the pro rock. And we ship them for free.
Also dynatrac is usually 8 weeks out. Our most recent orders shipped the same week the order was placed.
David
Also dynatrac is usually 8 weeks out. Our most recent orders shipped the same week the order was placed.
David
#10
ordered my pr44 from david at Northridge 4x4....great guy to work with....free shipping...a little over $1,000.00 cheaper then from dynatrac and had it within six days....