Paddle Latch/Tube Door Rattle relief?
#1
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Paddle Latch/Tube Door Rattle relief?
I have a set of 4 Bestop Elements tube doors with metal skins. Mostly, I'm happy with them, but the paddle latch design pretty much guarantees that there will always be some rattle within the latch itself. (Yes, I've spent lots of time adjusting carefully).
I've asked Bestop's customer service for help, but they didn't offer anything.
I've pondered several fixes, but before I act, thought I'd ask the group: Has anyone found a way to successfully minimize the rattle?
Ideas: Rubber bumper from door to body?, Magnet?, strap?, Anything else?
I've asked Bestop's customer service for help, but they didn't offer anything.
I've pondered several fixes, but before I act, thought I'd ask the group: Has anyone found a way to successfully minimize the rattle?
Ideas: Rubber bumper from door to body?, Magnet?, strap?, Anything else?
#2
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I had some rattles from factory full doors-went with a super high tech solution that totally solved the issue. A couple of wraps of electrical tape around the door strikers. Don't see why it would not help with your rattle too!
#3
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Re: Electrical tape
Thanks, good thinking.
I have in fact reduced the secondary rattle by using electrical tape on the striker. It did help, but the biggest issue is actually the latch pin rattling inside it's own latch plate (all inside the paddle latch).
One friend thought I could go through the painstaking process of disassembly of the latch, then close up the hole (weld/grind/drill) to a smaller size so the pin fit tighter. This might work, but might also make it more difficult to latch closed.
I have to think there is a smarter way to minimize the movement of the door or the latch in the first place.
I have in fact reduced the secondary rattle by using electrical tape on the striker. It did help, but the biggest issue is actually the latch pin rattling inside it's own latch plate (all inside the paddle latch).
One friend thought I could go through the painstaking process of disassembly of the latch, then close up the hole (weld/grind/drill) to a smaller size so the pin fit tighter. This might work, but might also make it more difficult to latch closed.
I have to think there is a smarter way to minimize the movement of the door or the latch in the first place.
#4
JK Freak
Thanks, good thinking.
I have in fact reduced the secondary rattle by using electrical tape on the striker. It did help, but the biggest issue is actually the latch pin rattling inside it's own latch plate (all inside the paddle latch).
One friend thought I could go through the painstaking process of disassembly of the latch, then close up the hole (weld/grind/drill) to a smaller size so the pin fit tighter. This might work, but might also make it more difficult to latch closed.
I have to think there is a smarter way to minimize the movement of the door or the latch in the first place.
I have in fact reduced the secondary rattle by using electrical tape on the striker. It did help, but the biggest issue is actually the latch pin rattling inside it's own latch plate (all inside the paddle latch).
One friend thought I could go through the painstaking process of disassembly of the latch, then close up the hole (weld/grind/drill) to a smaller size so the pin fit tighter. This might work, but might also make it more difficult to latch closed.
I have to think there is a smarter way to minimize the movement of the door or the latch in the first place.
#5
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Re: Adjustable rubber stops
Make yourself some adjustable rubber stops that go inbetween the door and jk door frame. Adjust tension out enough that it puts pressure on the tube doors and will create pressure on the latching mechanism. I have these same latches for my build and thats what I intend to do to solve that problem.
#6
Safari doors
I have the Safari doors and the pass side rattled.
I took a small piece of velcro strap (the kind they sell for keep electrical wires together) and wrapped in on the out U latch on the frame and it works like a champ.
I took a small piece of velcro strap (the kind they sell for keep electrical wires together) and wrapped in on the out U latch on the frame and it works like a champ.
#7
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Thanks, but I have to point out that this is not a rattle between the latch and the striker. Electrical tape and/or velcro on the striker does not resolve this issue. I'm looking to minimize movement of the latch internals.
Adjustable rubber bumper from door to body seems to the best idea so far... not sure what could be used as this bumper.
Anyone?
Adjustable rubber bumper from door to body seems to the best idea so far... not sure what could be used as this bumper.
Anyone?
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#8
I have the same issue with my element doors that I just picked up and have been thinking of welding a think piece of sheet metal to the slide where it does not fit tightly into the latch. However being that it is winter I likely will not try until late winter or spring when I'm thinking of putting the doors back on.
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I have the two piece soft doors and they come with door seals. Although the door seals are great at sealing they do load up the latch mechanism. Since you have skins on yours it might be reasonable to find some door seal material and place it strategicly.
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door seals
The door skins do come with seals that I have put in place. They barely close the gaps at best, and don't even come close around most of the door. Loading up the door latches would be good.
When the weather turns again, I'll have to play with either the placement of the seals, or find some larger ones.
When the weather turns again, I'll have to play with either the placement of the seals, or find some larger ones.