Ordered a'round of 5100 Blisteins!
02-11-2014, 02:06 PM
#11
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-11-2014, 03:41 PM
#12
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 36* N
Posts: 2,873
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
....Rarely do people give enough information about their rig to do any sort of intelligent comparison between brands. Aside from manufacture defects it is an install and see for yourself kinda part.
Suspension dynamics is something that has sooooo many variables; but the shock is the usual scape goat.
Suspension dynamics is something that has sooooo many variables; but the shock is the usual scape goat.
To the end that most people don't know much about their suspension and such- Dirtman has done different shocks and various setups to isolate them. He runs two different JK's so his experience isn't just single faceted.
To your original question- my 5100's ride just fine. I'd buy them again as they fit my application well. I have no interest in jumping to the 7100 series that would save money in the long run by rebuilding your own shock and potentially changing the valving to make for a better ride.
02-11-2014, 05:00 PM
#14
JK Junkie
02-25-2014, 10:00 AM
#15
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok I got these Bad boys on and here's my thoughts....
I installed the rears first, and drove like this for about 3 days. I can say that my Rubicon Express shocks were not completely shot after 90,000miles
but were weak.
With the new Bilsteins in the rear it tightened up my body roll for sure.
Popped on the fronts and the matching Bilstein steering stabilizer. Also inflated my tires to 50 psi so I could get a good street feel for the shock with out alot of tire flab.
In short the shocks are a great replacement, certainly tighter due to the age of the ones they are replacing but all in all not alot of ride quality change from the Rubicon Express'
I will be interested to see how long the Zinc coating on the exterior of the shock holds up over the next 70,000 miles or so.
I will drop my tire pressure back to about 42 psi, as this give a bit more comfort driving around the streets that DOT seems to have forgotten are awful...lol
INSTALLATION NOTES:
Get yourself a 5mm allen wrench and a dremmel and cut it down to make it easy to use in the tight space at the top of the front shock tower. Doing this will keep the cursing to a minimum if you want to install the front shocks without removing any parts such at the fender liner or battery tray. I'll try and post a pick of the one I made. I also chamfered and polished the edges with the dremmel so popping it in place was easy as you are doing this blind. Once you get the top nut on the front shock semi tight the friction of the bushing will let you tighten up without the tool anymore.
I found it easiest to cut the strapping that they come packaged with and just stab one side and compress the shock and stab the other side in place while it expanded.
I installed the rears first, and drove like this for about 3 days. I can say that my Rubicon Express shocks were not completely shot after 90,000miles
but were weak. With the new Bilsteins in the rear it tightened up my body roll for sure.
Popped on the fronts and the matching Bilstein steering stabilizer. Also inflated my tires to 50 psi so I could get a good street feel for the shock with out alot of tire flab.
In short the shocks are a great replacement, certainly tighter due to the age of the ones they are replacing but all in all not alot of ride quality change from the Rubicon Express'
I will be interested to see how long the Zinc coating on the exterior of the shock holds up over the next 70,000 miles or so.
I will drop my tire pressure back to about 42 psi, as this give a bit more comfort driving around the streets that DOT seems to have forgotten are awful...lol
INSTALLATION NOTES:
Get yourself a 5mm allen wrench and a dremmel and cut it down to make it easy to use in the tight space at the top of the front shock tower. Doing this will keep the cursing to a minimum if you want to install the front shocks without removing any parts such at the fender liner or battery tray. I'll try and post a pick of the one I made. I also chamfered and polished the edges with the dremmel so popping it in place was easy as you are doing this blind. Once you get the top nut on the front shock semi tight the friction of the bushing will let you tighten up without the tool anymore.
I found it easiest to cut the strapping that they come packaged with and just stab one side and compress the shock and stab the other side in place while it expanded.