Opinions on build with 40s in future
10-11-2013, 08:40 AM
#11
You might also look into doing some engine upgrades to help with the lag and strain that those 40s are going to put in the motor. Just my two cents i know its not the first thing that people think of but i believe its important. I also agree it is importand to upgrade the Axles to a 60 and the driveshafts. It requires a lot of planing time and some money to create this build properly. Also you can try and do it cheaply but you may end up replacing parts as you go thtas somthing you will need to plan for. I am also trying to do the same thing but slowly
10-11-2013, 09:19 AM
#12
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Your gonna need Dynatrac full float prorock 60's, PSC hydro steering assist, wheels with 3.5" back space, pinch seam trimming, 1350 front and rear drive shafts, good tire carrier to handle the weight of the 40+plus wheel. And probably a few other things.
Im currently running 37's and just hit 35k miles on my '12 rubi that I bought last year in Apr. So far i broke the rear locker, destroyed the ball joints, blew out passenger front unit bearing, bent both rear axle flanges..and blew out the wheel bearings on the new replacement shafts too.
So you should save your lunch money for the 60's and only run 37's for now....probably should at least get some gussets for your front axle too......your gonna need them. The outer(C's) are weak a $hit.
Im currently running 37's and just hit 35k miles on my '12 rubi that I bought last year in Apr. So far i broke the rear locker, destroyed the ball joints, blew out passenger front unit bearing, bent both rear axle flanges..and blew out the wheel bearings on the new replacement shafts too.
So you should save your lunch money for the 60's and only run 37's for now....probably should at least get some gussets for your front axle too......your gonna need them. The outer(C's) are weak a $hit.
You need an ProRock 80 in the rear!!!
10-11-2013, 10:11 AM
#13
JK Junkie
yesssss I doooo!.......wanna give me a sweet deal on one???
Its weird cuz im not hard on my jeep when I wheel. I always go slow, dont.shock load at all, dont drop off big ledges either. My jeep is a dd and I wheel at least once a month
10-11-2013, 10:20 AM
#14
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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I appreciate all the inputs fellas im reading everything and taking all into consideration... sounds like 40s might not be the way to go maybe stick with 37's... Its a 2007 rubicon manual trans... I purchased it salvaged. Had a superlift 4" on it with 35's. Street jeep. Well when it rolled it bent the C on the front axle. So I need a new front axle that's where this all started nows the time to look to the future cause if I do a prorock 44 now is it gonna be too small in the future I been thinking to myself.....
10-11-2013, 10:42 AM
#15
JK Super Freak
Ya I would go 60s right away! My buddy paid the price. Ran 40s for a while on d44s and bent the front axle and blew up the rear.
Check the Tera 60s. Great pricing and they come complete with lockers and everything!
Check the Tera 60s. Great pricing and they come complete with lockers and everything!
10-11-2013, 11:20 AM
#16
JK Junkie
No Teraflex, ya they may come complete but you get what you pay for. The housing and brackets are strong BUT its not a full float axle so you WILL still bend the axle flanges
Last edited by bob-o; 10-11-2013 at 11:26 AM.
10-11-2013, 02:15 PM
#18
JK Super Freak
Heres a pic of his rig
Last edited by JKBANDIT55; 10-11-2013 at 02:19 PM.
10-11-2013, 05:02 PM
#19
JK Jedi
I would not be concerned with the strength of a teraflex or pro rock 44 on the front when used with 40's on the front. The rear I would look into a full float rear which will take the brunt of the off road abuse. The issues I see that most people don't is reusing the weak unit bearing that is on the JK. When running serious tires and running those harder trails I would prefer to have a stronger lock out hub that can be disconnected if something should happen up front. The other issue is the axle width that is needed to run a big wide tire in order to be able to turn and not get into the frame and lower control arms. Adding 3" to the width of the axle will take stress off the ball joints while allowing you to run a wheel bs of 4.5" for 37" tires on a lcog build.
10-11-2013, 05:49 PM
#20
JK Freak
You might also look into doing some engine upgrades to help with the lag and strain that those 40s are going to put in the motor. Just my two cents i know its not the first thing that people think of but i believe its important. I also agree it is importand to upgrade the Axles to a 60 and the driveshafts. It requires a lot of planing time and some money to create this build properly. Also you can try and do it cheaply but you may end up replacing parts as you go thtas somthing you will need to plan for. I am also trying to do the same thing but slowly
Off road only with a rubi case and 5:38's might be bearable. My buddy runs 40's and wishes he had more gear or motor all the time.