Opinions on build with 40s in future
#1
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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Opinions on build with 40s in future
Im starting the build on the jk now over the winter. I would love your guys opinions since you been around it.. To start its a rubicon I purchased the 3.5 rockkrawler long arm x-factor lift. got a 2" body lift already.. I guess question is axles to start. I got 5.38s front and rear for a dana 44 already. so plan would be Detroit locker with 5.38 and a aftermarket shafts for rear? and Front im thinking prorock44 with a selectable locker and rcvs. im gonna do 37 right now then hopefully 40s down the rd unless money is there near end of build just purchase 40s then reason being I already got access to a set of 37s for next to nothing.. So any information to help me along the lines much apprectiated id like to do this just once and don't have the funds to purchase a 8000$ 60's for front and rear now..
There will be wheeling involved but I know when to let off and get winched before everything starts breaking hah!
Axles, lockers, high rise fenders, axle shafts, any input much appreciated thanks guys!!
There will be wheeling involved but I know when to let off and get winched before everything starts breaking hah!
Axles, lockers, high rise fenders, axle shafts, any input much appreciated thanks guys!!
#4
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It's easy to pile on things to consider for 40's, and the difference between "consider" and "need" is totally up to each individual. I'd consider brakes and steering after the obvious ones stated so far.
#5
JK Junkie
Your gonna need Dynatrac full float prorock 60's, PSC hydro steering assist, wheels with 3.5" back space, pinch seam trimming, 1350 front and rear drive shafts, good tire carrier to handle the weight of the 40+plus wheel. And probably a few other things.
Im currently running 37's and just hit 35k miles on my '12 rubi that I bought last year in Apr. So far i broke the rear locker, destroyed the ball joints, blew out passenger front unit bearing, bent both rear axle flanges..and blew out the wheel bearings on the new replacement shafts too.
So you should save your lunch money for the 60's and only run 37's for now....probably should at least get some gussets for your front axle too......your gonna need them. The outer(C's) are weak a $hit.
Im currently running 37's and just hit 35k miles on my '12 rubi that I bought last year in Apr. So far i broke the rear locker, destroyed the ball joints, blew out passenger front unit bearing, bent both rear axle flanges..and blew out the wheel bearings on the new replacement shafts too.
So you should save your lunch money for the 60's and only run 37's for now....probably should at least get some gussets for your front axle too......your gonna need them. The outer(C's) are weak a $hit.
#7
JK Jedi
You will want the full float ton's for strength and the extra width you are going to need to run a 40"x13.5" tire. Wheel bs will depend on the width of the axles and you should figure that combo in when you build. The more bs the easier it will be on ball joints. The full floats will require a 8 lug wheel so plan on those as well. I would not waste my time on the prorock 44. 1350 shafts are not needed and not recommended unless you are going to be swapping in some more hp. Wheeling on 37's you will want some cromoly shafts on the rear. I would kill the 2" body lift and just run the 3.5" lift as it will give you plenty of clearance with a flat fender. The difference in a proper build for 37's and 40's is so much more then just swapping out the tires. Plan on hydraulic assist on the steering, a drag link flip, super stubby bumpers, and be ready to start cutting.
Fill out your profile when you get a chance. You did not state what year your rig is or what transmission you have. If it is an 11 or older with the auto you are not going to like running 40's even on 5.38 gears.
Fill out your profile when you get a chance. You did not state what year your rig is or what transmission you have. If it is an 11 or older with the auto you are not going to like running 40's even on 5.38 gears.
Last edited by TheDirtman; 10-11-2013 at 06:43 AM.
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#8
Nows your chance to run some 20" wheels on it too! According To everyone on here, u can't run 20s on anything less than a 40
Build sounds good, just curious, why the 2" body lift instead of a larger suspension lift?
Build sounds good, just curious, why the 2" body lift instead of a larger suspension lift?
#10
You will want the full float ton's for strength and the extra width you are going to need to run a 40"x13.5" tire. Wheel bs will depend on the width of the axles and you should figure that combo in when you build. The more bs the easier it will be on ball joints. The full floats will require a 8 lug wheel so plan on those as well. I would not waste my time on the prorock 44. 1350 shafts are not needed and not recommended unless you are going to be swapping in some more hp. Wheeling on 37's you will want some cromoly shafts on the rear. I would kill the 2" body lift and just run the 3.5" lift as it will give you plenty of clearance with a flat fender. The difference in a proper build for 37's and 40's is so much more then just swapping out the tires. Plan on hydraulic assist on the steering, a drag link flip, super stubby bumpers, and be ready to start cutting.
Fill out your profile when you get a chance. You did not state what year your rig is or what transmission you have. If it is an 11 or older with the auto you are not going to like running 40's even on 5.38 gears.
Fill out your profile when you get a chance. You did not state what year your rig is or what transmission you have. If it is an 11 or older with the auto you are not going to like running 40's even on 5.38 gears.