Opinions for 35" tire
03-04-2015, 06:04 PM
#21
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So I was looking at the Toyo Open Country 315/70/18 (36x13x18). I think this would be a nice noticeble difference from my 295/70/18 Nitto Trail. I am currently running the Teraflex 2.5 coil lift with .75" spacers. Would this be enough lift for the 36 tire? All of my driving is on road so no articulation is needed.
I know eventually I would need to regear from my 3.21, but I bought the 2012 brand new in 2011. It only has 8k miles on it. Not driven very often.
I know eventually I would need to regear from my 3.21, but I bought the 2012 brand new in 2011. It only has 8k miles on it. Not driven very often.
03-04-2015, 08:49 PM
#22
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So a mfg's size of 36x13, which actually measures something like 35.4x12, and when mounted and under normal vehicle load measures more like 34.5x12. Sound about right? You are getting too hung up on numbers and 'true' size. Find a tire that you like and that fits your needs and go have fun.
Will it fit?
Stock flares or flats? What backspace/offset on the rims? Has the pinch seams been cut? The plastic skid? The fenders? Are the axles centered? You say it's all onroad with no articulation, right? So you never take a corner with any kind of speed and hit a dip in the road? Or go diagonally up into any kind of driveway? (With a 4" lift and 'short' 35's, I could get them to rub every time I went through a certain intersection, turning at relatively low speed and crossing the little drainage channel...)
Will it fit?
Stock flares or flats? What backspace/offset on the rims? Has the pinch seams been cut? The plastic skid? The fenders? Are the axles centered? You say it's all onroad with no articulation, right? So you never take a corner with any kind of speed and hit a dip in the road? Or go diagonally up into any kind of driveway? (With a 4" lift and 'short' 35's, I could get them to rub every time I went through a certain intersection, turning at relatively low speed and crossing the little drainage channel...)
03-05-2015, 05:17 PM
#24
I think it really depends on what you do with your Jeep. I waffled a lot on 4.56 vs 4.88, I always like more low end in a Jeep 
. Our Jeep is a third vehicle, but gets regularly used on road as well as off road (but no rock crawling). 4.88 would be awesome offroad (especially rock crawling with the Rubi) but on road at speed (70+) your engine would be revving sustained way to high for my taste. the change to 4.56 got me back to stock Rubi crawl and low end as well as top end. a great outcome from my perspective.
For rpm comparison look at this site. Gear Ratio Calculator. You can do a side by side and look at it a bunch of ways
If you decide to do regear, contact Kevin at 4WS.com. Amazing price on quality gears!
. Our Jeep is a third vehicle, but gets regularly used on road as well as off road (but no rock crawling). 4.88 would be awesome offroad (especially rock crawling with the Rubi) but on road at speed (70+) your engine would be revving sustained way to high for my taste. the change to 4.56 got me back to stock Rubi crawl and low end as well as top end. a great outcome from my perspective. For rpm comparison look at this site. Gear Ratio Calculator. You can do a side by side and look at it a bunch of ways
If you decide to do regear, contact Kevin at 4WS.com. Amazing price on quality gears!
Last time I looked at a gear ratio calculator, it seemed like for me to get back to close-to-stock gearing setup with 35's, the 4.56's were about perfect (I have a manual with 4.10's). But, with the added weight and rolling resistance of the 35's, I was thinking that going with 4.88's might make it actually "feel" closer to stock. The added RPM didnt seem like it was going to be too much more... at least on the calculator. But then again, I always thought the factory gearing/tire size setup was just a tad low anyway for street driving, which I do a lot of with my Jeep.
03-06-2015, 03:20 AM
#25
JK Enthusiast
Gotchya. Thanks for the info and links. I love first hand info much more than just hear say "I read it on the internet" info. Last time I looked at a gear ratio calculator, it seemed like for me to get back to close-to-stock gearing setup with 35's, the 4.56's were about perfect (I have a manual with 4.10's). But, with the added weight and rolling resistance of the 35's, I was thinking that going with 4.88's might make it actually "feel" closer to stock. The added RPM didnt seem like it was going to be too much more... at least on the calculator. But then again, I always thought the factory gearing/tire size setup was just a tad low anyway for street driving, which I do a lot of with my Jeep.
03-22-2015, 07:35 AM
#26
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That is what I did. I upgraded to 4.56's (from 3.21). You can definitely tell the difference. Oh and I got my best deal at 4ws.com too.
Gotchya. Thanks for the info and links. I love first hand info much more than just hear say "I read it on the internet" info.
Last time I looked at a gear ratio calculator, it seemed like for me to get back to close-to-stock gearing setup with 35's, the 4.56's were about perfect (I have a manual with 4.10's). But, with the added weight and rolling resistance of the 35's, I was thinking that going with 4.88's might make it actually "feel" closer to stock. The added RPM didnt seem like it was going to be too much more... at least on the calculator. But then again, I always thought the factory gearing/tire size setup was just a tad low anyway for street driving, which I do a lot of with my Jeep.
Last time I looked at a gear ratio calculator, it seemed like for me to get back to close-to-stock gearing setup with 35's, the 4.56's were about perfect (I have a manual with 4.10's). But, with the added weight and rolling resistance of the 35's, I was thinking that going with 4.88's might make it actually "feel" closer to stock. The added RPM didnt seem like it was going to be too much more... at least on the calculator. But then again, I always thought the factory gearing/tire size setup was just a tad low anyway for street driving, which I do a lot of with my Jeep.
03-22-2015, 05:28 PM
#27
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