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Opinion on SS relocation trackbar bracket/ss tie-rod clamp

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Old 09-06-2013 | 11:34 AM
  #1  
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Default Opinion on SS relocation trackbar bracket/ss tie-rod clamp

Hi jeepers,

I passed a lot of time reading and searching information on the forum about the ss, ss relocation trackbar bracket and ss tie-rod clamp, but I'm still not sure which way to go.

I have a 2011 JKU Sahara 6 speed. I installed by myself a RC 3.5 serie II lift kit (doesn't come with adj front trackbar), with 315/75R16 tires and wheels and rubi rails (2" trimmed and pinch seem trimmed).

The ride is not that bad, but I'm looking to correct the weird steering feeling on the highway, probably due to the wrong caster, but take note the kit was coming with RC specific longer fix front lower control arm, and that I still have the OE front trackbar.

Since I'm on a 2 years assignment for my job in Mexico, and the jeep is parked in the garage, I'm just buying stuff slowly, to continue my build, in way to have everything ready to install at the beginning of 2013 when I'm back in Montreal.

The RC 3.5 serie II comes with a drop front trackbar relocation bracket to match the RC drop pitman arm steering geometry, and relocates the ss above the tie-rod, which I like the current location, far from the rocks.

So my plan is to remove the OE front trackbar, disconnect the drag-link and remove the RC drop pitman arm, remove the RC drop front trackbar bracket, and to re-install the OE pitman arm and OE drag-link, a new ss relocation bracket (JKS or Synergy, still not sure) to keep the ss far from the rocks but keeping the original attaching point for the front trackbar and to install my brand new TF Monster Adj Front Trackbar that is sitting in the condo at the moment.

Along with this, I will remove the RC specific longer fix front lower control arms and install some used but still in good condition, , TF front adj lca bought here on the forum, that are waiting in the condo too.

Sorry for the long explanation post, but I want to be sure that the ones who will give me input will have a complete picture of my set-up.

I know that the stock ss made the job, but please keep in mind that these mods are to bring back as most as possible the original driving behavior/feeling as DD and to keep the ss above the tie-rod for off-roading

So should I go with Synergy SS reloc tb bracket and tie-rod clamp or with the JKS SS reloc tb bracket and tie-rod clamp to match my new TF HD SS??


Thanks for reading!!
Old 09-06-2013 | 11:57 AM
  #2  
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No experience with JKS, but installed the Synergy bracket and flipped the drag link recently. It works great, but it is designed around the synergy trackbar. (haven't followed any threads concerning fitment of the monster, so you might do a search on that just to be safe).

And no experience with either clamp, but was running the Synergy ss relo bracket with a fox ss and the stock clamp for a year or so with no issue. The big beefy clamps sure look cooler though.


-
I just reread your post. You are not talking about going to a drag link flip? Just adding the raised tb bracket without the corresponding pitman arm raise? Or just removing your current steering correction kit (drop pitman/tb bracket) and living with the steep angles - And then adding an adj trackbar to center the axle and a ss relo bracket to move the stabilizer up?

Last edited by nthinuf; 09-06-2013 at 02:14 PM.
Old 09-06-2013 | 05:33 PM
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Removing and installing a raised TB bracket is a good idea but only if the rear is raised as well.
Raised track bar brackets bring the roll center back closer to stock. A drop bracket or raised bracket will center the axle taking out the angle.

I didn't understand what you said about caster and control arms. What exactly do you have for a setup in the front ? Do you know the caster ?

AEV and Rancho both offer front CA drop brackets that help drivability by flattening the angle of the arms and fix the caster angle.

I would install a rear raised TB bracket and then the front. Obviously flipping the drag link is the better than a drop pitman. You can wait if you don't have the cash.
Then I would fix caster with the drop brackets mentioned for around $100 or lower CA's

Last edited by kjeeper10; 09-06-2013 at 05:36 PM.
Old 09-06-2013 | 07:36 PM
  #4  
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Maybe I'm not explaining me correctly. I'm not talking about a drag Link flip.

The jeep was new. Then I installed the Rough Country 3.5 series II lift kit Jeep JK Wrangler Suspension Lift. Along with 315-75R16 tires and wheels.

the kit comes with:

Front:
-coil springs
-fixed lower control arms with OEM style rubber bushing
-trackbar drop bracket
-drop pitman arm
-brake line relocation brackets & hardware

Rear:
-coil springs
-trackbar drop bracket
-coil correction plate
-extented swaybar links
-brake line relocation brackets & hardware

Shocks: (4) N2.0 series shocks.

So I was just thinking to remove the OE front trackbar, RC front trackbar drop bracket and RC pitman arm.

Reinstall the OE pitman arm. Then install a ss relocation bracket that move the ss above the tie-rod, but doesn't change the original trackbar attaching point and put the TF Monster adj trackbar.

And finally put the TF front adj lca (that I bought from you Kjeeper10) to recenter the front axle. I was thinking that recentering my axle will correct my caster, but maybe I'm wrong.
Old 09-06-2013 | 07:49 PM
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perform the drag link flip as it relocates the ss. ditch the drop bracket in the rear and use a bracket on the axle. these changes will solve multiple problems you may not realize you have.
Old 09-06-2013 | 07:54 PM
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The current drop pitman / tb bracket correct for the steep angles that the drag link and trackbar run at after a lift. Removing them and replacing with just an adj trackbar will let you center the axle left to right, but will leave the trackbar and drag link at steeper angles. Which is why there have been several mentions of a drag link flip.

Moving the ss up won't affect the angles, but in the first post you mentioned both a ss relo, and a tb/ss relo bracket, which is used in the flip and raises the trackbar a few inches. So I just wanted to verify which you were actually referring to.

Your current fixed arms adjust the caster, they just aren't adjustable. Moving to a single set of adj arms does the same thing, just lets you fine tune better. Adding both sets of arms will allow you to set the caster and also move the entire axle forward/backward in the wheel well.

Last edited by nthinuf; 09-06-2013 at 08:04 PM.
Old 09-06-2013 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bbrown626
perform the drag link flip as it relocates the ss. ditch the drop bracket in the rear and use a bracket on the axle. these changes will solve multiple problems you may not realize you have.
Yep

Sort of the same thing.
Dropped track bar bracket along and a pitman arm drop is similar to raising the track bar and flipping the drag link. Both correct the arcs of the TB/Dl.
BUT... With a higher lift you should have roll center corrected as well. TB Drop brackets lower roll center.
The only reason I mentioned the rear, if you are going to raise the front Tb, the rear has to match.
You can't raise the front roll center without the rear. The opposite is fine.
Drop pitman arms suck. They actually put more stress on the sector shaft/steering box. At some point flipping the drag link is a better option.
Now... Raising the track bars actually center the axle. Not perfect but they do, same as drop brackets but not as perfect ad a adjustable TB.

You can remove it all and install a adjustable track bar. Drivability might suffer a little and/or bumpsteer depending on the angles.

I'm running Synergy's Highsteer. Comes with raised track bar bracket and a beefy drag link that can be run on either side of the knuckle. For the rear a raised TF bracket. TF track bar in front and RK track bar in the rear. The SS mounts to the front bracket that attaches to my synergy tie rod. Mounted up out of the way.

Edit: should have noticed the name
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Last edited by kjeeper10; 09-06-2013 at 08:20 PM.
Old 09-06-2013 | 08:39 PM
  #8  
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So which route I should go?

High steer or drag link flip?? Knowing that I have 4 - 4.25 inche of lift...

I'm really not an expert, and I want my jeep drive well on and off-road. If I need to invest in a drag link flip or a highsteer kit, I will do, But i want to be sure to buy the most correct one for my set-up.

For sure, i want to get rid of the drop pitman arm and drop trackbar bracket!!

So waiting to be installed:

TF monster front adf TB
TF hd ss
TF front adj lca
PSC D30 driveshaft cover
EVO C-gusset and lca skids

So I ditch the RC drop trackbar bracket and RC drop pitman arm, also the RC rear drop tb bracket.

And I buy a drag link flip (EVO, TF), or a highsteer kit (synergy) (which I don't know which one should fit better my needs), also with a rear raised TF bracket.

Right? Sorry to be that much newbie
Old 09-06-2013 | 09:04 PM
  #9  
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A drag link flip is a high steer i suppose. You can build a tie rid and drag link also. Also nit much need for a steering stabilizer imo. I would ditch the pitman arm and get front rear trackbar brackets that raise from the axle.
Old 09-06-2013 | 09:17 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by smellytuna
And I buy a drag link flip (EVO, TF), or a highsteer kit (synergy) (which I don't know which one should fit better my needs), also with a rear raised TF bracket.
My understanding is that the EVO kit uses a 'factory' RHD draglink, no strength upgrade over what you have now. The Tera flip uses a frame drop bracket. The Synergy flip raises from the axle. Which is better may be open to some debate, I guess.

One thing I liked about the synergy setup is that you can run their drag link in the stock location, and then later on flip it to the top of the knuckle when you add the bracket. I already had the synergy drag link and trackbar (in stock locations) and sector shaft brace, so it was a no-brainer to add both front and rear Synergy brackets when I was ready for the flip.


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