I would say that the AEV kit is designed for Land Expedition (i.e. moving over a variety of terrains at speeds over 15-25+ MPH except for extremes like rocks, mud, etc). This bias towards higher speed motion, may compromise extreme articulation which is needed for rock crawling at 1-5 MPH, although there is some evidence to the contrary. For this reason the AEV suspension makes it perform very well on the road.

Bushings and joints are critical elements of the suspension, steering and driveline because they are subjected to high loads under a variety of operating conditions (angle, frequency, contaminants, temperature). Bushings appear to be the most innocous, so it is easy to underestimate their importance, but in addition to load must also meet compliance (ride) and longevity requirements (100K miles). The factory dedicates a relatively large amount of sophisticated resources to their development, something that is usually beyond the scope of many small aftermarket vendors.

 

well originaly thought was torgue convertor, then someone where im at mentioned bushings failing ,. nows those are good, dont know now. when pedal is pushed, then let up then pushed again, i get a thunk or clunk and can feel it. does not happen ecerytime though. but dino feels like its tranny and back.we have checkerd everything for being tight, nothing that we can see has any play or loose.

planman, u know bushings on these kits can be installed improperly. ill have to dig up the install pdf, but if i remember correctly, if something are tightened before or after lift is cycled though at time of instal. some stuff is not tightned untill after all 4 wheels are put back on ground and weight distributed across jeep, i think something to do with sprung and unsprung weight, it will cause problems. dont quote me ont hat till i get the install directions again

 

thanks Dave for the info, well i got my toes in my mouth so far, about to have whole foot.

i guess i have been one of the fortunate ones and keep everything lubed with the provided zerk fittings

 

Off the top of my head ZERO

David

 

sorry it was bushing preload that i was looking for. thi is from the RE install pdf, and goes for all the controll arms concerning bushings

NOTE: The rubber coupler is welded at an offset angle. Be sure when installing the arm that the bushing is in a neutral position. If the arm does not drop over the upper mount remove the ½” bolt and rotate the coupler 180 degrees.
E. Repeat steps A – D on the drivers side
F. Tighten the lower control arm bolts at the cross member only, all other rubber attaching points should remain loose until the vehicle is under its own weight to prevent bushing preload.


im not sayin that there are not defectinve bushings, but if installed wrong can cause the premature wear

 

make ya a deal, ill send u my RE stuff and u can replace it wth Teraflex. sounds good to me

 

35's and <$5k for now. About 1.5 years down the road, will do HEMI conversion, long arm w/ coil overs, etc... (kid in college now).

 

How about the Currie adjustable upper front CAs you use in the OME package?

 

Images of the AEV show it flexes pretty darn well.

I personally would prefer the AEV and am trying to save up for it.

To increase both on and off-road works for me!

I'd be willing to bet you could do just about anything a teraflex 3" lift could do as an AEV 3" lift could do.


To be able to have better emergency lane change handling and as good if not better than stock ride...works for me! (some don't like the AEV cam-bolts, I never had a problem with them on my ZJ and I drove it like I stole it)

 

not to mention you dont have to install the cam bolts.. they can easily be replaced with upper or lower control arms.