I don't think he had problems removing his OEM springs, it was installing his aftermarket springs he was having difficulty with.

 

Okay, I'll play this funny game. The OME's "fall" in just as well. By putting that pivot in there, it gives a little sideways clearance as well as up and down. Makes for plenty of room to move those guys around.

 

for twenty bucks at harbor freigt or rent em at parts store, all of your problems are solved with a coil spring compression tool. I installed the OME in about 4 hours total with "help" from my 4 year old and father in law. This included the track bar relocator. She was pretty good... All that I had to disconnect was the brakeline attachment tab for the front and loosen the two bolts on each side that hold the sway bar to the frame.

A trick on pulling the old ones easy is to put the compression tool on before you let the axle down.

Here are some steps that I think might help the next guy.

1. Jack up front or back - whatever, as so as to get the frame on your jackstands at the highest point. SAFELY, good jack stands.

2. Pull both tires and set aside or under frame for a bit of safety.

3. Put the compression tool onto existing spring (front only, really).

4. Loosen screw that holds brake lines to frame, one each side. Pull breather hose off.

5. loosen or remove bolts (2 each side) that hold sway bar to underside of frame. Remove both shocks.

6. Lower jack holding pumpkin as low as possible. It should "hang". Keep jack in place for safety.

7. Go to one side, push down on hub assembly. Help is good here. Remove old spring.

8. Put compression tool on new spring and compress.

9. Put new spring in being carefull to note up/down and position of seat.

10. Repeat for other spring.

11. Jack pumpkin back up.

12. Install bolts for sway bar.

13. For front, install brake line supports. Put breather tube back in place.

14. Install tires.

15. Repeat for back/front.

16. IMPORTANT, get it aligned professionally. How much did you pay for your tires.

I thought I got rooked when I didn't get instructions, guess I wasn't alone.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3980

sorry, 12.99

I know they aren't a sponsor, buy it from a sponsor if you can find one. This is just an example, and very time saving.

 

Why do you need to get it aligned? Nothing to do with the alignment gets changed. The steering wheel needs to be centered in some cases but anybody can do that.

Just curious?

 

It took me about 4 hours total to do everything. I also disconnected the brake line mounts and pulled the wiring clips which took about 2 minutes. On the rear I used two jack stands and one floor jack in the middle. The rear springs fell out and the new ones (H-D) were no problem at all.

In the front I did the same thing as the rear with disconnecting the brake lines like chucktuna. I used jack stands and one floor jack. I did one side at a time and the stock springs fell out. The new ones (H-D) went in without any force. This is a very easy kit to install.

The new FT adjustable track bars will be here tomorrow and I don't anticipate having any trouble with the install there either.

 

I don't know if it would help but I used another jack to lower to axle from the frame. With some muscling in it went it. Mind you this is after a ton of things were disconnected.

 

If you don't think that a lift affects alignment, don't get it aligned. Watch your tires.

 

I did this lift following WOL's write up, and did it in about an hour and a half. It was a piece of cake.

 

and what can be adjusted on a JK with stock arms, besides the Toe (can be accurately adj with a tape measure) and centering the steering wheel?

Answer: nothing