Old Man Emu Suspension Thread 2.5" - What's your setup?
#11
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Thread Starter
Since they can't possibly know which coil/shock/bumpstop combination every single person chose to go with, that is most likely an incorrect statement. I sent arbusa a pic of my coils fully stacked (tire stuffed with no bumpstop) and asked about the possibility of damaging the coils. It was forwarded to corporate, and I received a reply from their head engineer in Australia. He indicated that stacking the coils will not harm them (went into a bunch of metallugical numbers and specs), but advised that I do run enough bumpstop to prevent the coils from stacking and to prevent the shocks from over-compressing. How much bumpstop to run will vary by application.
#12
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Last I checked, OME has like 15 different coils for the JK, and you select based on model and intended load, or how much height you want to achieve, or whatever. Some people report 2", others report 4-5". Saying that OME knows what they are doing and that everyone should just expect to be ok because they bought a 'KIT', well, maybe it makes sense to you...
Personally, I think people should realize that bumpstops were not included in the KIT and do a little measuring to make sure they are not bottoming out their shocks or ripping a fender off when a tire is stuffed.
Personally, I think people should realize that bumpstops were not included in the KIT and do a little measuring to make sure they are not bottoming out their shocks or ripping a fender off when a tire is stuffed.
#14
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I wish ya'll be more specific about what you have. Exactly what spring combo are you calling HD? Are you referring to their heavy load 2619 front springs and 2618 rear? On a light JKU that will produce closer to 3" of lift. And you are running their standard length shocks, 60066/60067? Those are almost the same length as stock up front and only about an inch longer in back. Up front that means you are limiting your flex a lot. And yes, those shocks can be run with factory bumps. You aren't going to over compress them. But if you are running 35's are larger you need some amount of bump. With factory fenders close to 3" if you plan to stuff'em. Now, go with 60066L/60067L and you've got some shocks that will be flexy but you will probably want to add lower spring retainers with them.
OEM does have a number of springs to meet different needs and their stuff is top shelf. Me, I run Metalcloak springs with my OEM 60066L/60067L shocks. Complimented with other Metalcloak parts, JKS, Teraflex and Synergy. I run 2" of bump all around running Bushwacker flats. 35" KM2's.
OEM does have a number of springs to meet different needs and their stuff is top shelf. Me, I run Metalcloak springs with my OEM 60066L/60067L shocks. Complimented with other Metalcloak parts, JKS, Teraflex and Synergy. I run 2" of bump all around running Bushwacker flats. 35" KM2's.
#16
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Page 22-24 has the coil and shock numbers, and some load rates and stuff.
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/on...de_current.pdf
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/on...de_current.pdf
#17
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Thread Starter
So I'm going to be upgrading to the Northridge OME Long Travel Kit: Old Man Emu JK Long Travel Lift Kit
I'll be adding the JKS Trackbars, Shorter Bump Stops for the front and the Long Travel Shocks.
Instead of doing this, does anyone recommend going a different route that might be money better spent? I don't want to buy a totally different lift, but I would like some more travel.
i.e. Different shocks, different bump stops (speed bumps or the like)
I'll be adding the JKS Trackbars, Shorter Bump Stops for the front and the Long Travel Shocks.
Instead of doing this, does anyone recommend going a different route that might be money better spent? I don't want to buy a totally different lift, but I would like some more travel.
i.e. Different shocks, different bump stops (speed bumps or the like)
#18
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So I'm going to be upgrading to the Northridge OME Long Travel Kit: Old Man Emu JK Long Travel Lift Kit
I'll be adding the JKS Trackbars, Shorter Bump Stops for the front and the Long Travel Shocks.
Instead of doing this, does anyone recommend going a different route that might be money better spent? I don't want to buy a totally different lift, but I would like some more travel.
i.e. Different shocks, different bump stops (speed bumps or the like)
I'll be adding the JKS Trackbars, Shorter Bump Stops for the front and the Long Travel Shocks.
Instead of doing this, does anyone recommend going a different route that might be money better spent? I don't want to buy a totally different lift, but I would like some more travel.
i.e. Different shocks, different bump stops (speed bumps or the like)
Here is what he includes in the OME kit along with my notes on changes and suggestions based on you running the same JKU as me a '14 Rubi.
ARB2618 front HD coils
ARB2619 rear HD coils
Instead of the OME coils do a set of the MetalCloak 2.5" springs.
OGS121 JKS front track bar
OGS159 JKS rear track bar
Stick with these. Great track bars. I would add a rear track bar bracket though, TER1954776. You could actually save a little coin by getting this bracket and using the stock rear track bar instead of buying the rear JKS. The JKS will just allow you to fine tune but you won't be off by much if any with the bracket and those coils.
Qty 2 – JKS2943 JKS adjustable sway bar links
Instead of these, replace your the front and rear sway links with 12.25". Yes, the same link from and rear. You have a rubi so you don't need disco sway links and with those coils/shocks you want your sway links long enough. Either Teraflex or MetalCloak. Whichever he prices lower.
QTY 2 - ARB60066L Long travel shocks
QTY 2 - ARB60067L Long travel shocks
Great shock! Love them!
TER1954700 rear lower bumpstops
TER1910234 front lower bumpstops
These are good.
CROWN FRONT BRAKE LINES
CROWN REAR BRAKE LINES
Skip these. In the rear, a pair of TER4304400 drop brackets is all you need. In the front, just remove the brake lines from the factory brackets and wire tie to the shock. They are plenty long enough for this setup. This will save some coin.
TER1653700 Front lower adjustable control arms or the Metalcloak arms. Flip a coin. They are both awesome arms.
Instead of exhaust spacers, fix the drive line angle and exhaust issue both with a new front driveshaft 1310.
#19
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Thread Starter
That is a great kit! But make these changes and you'll have an awesome kit. David@N4x4 can put this together for you and still get a good price.
Here is what he includes in the OME kit along with my notes on changes and suggestions based on you running the same JKU as me a '14 Rubi.
ARB2618 front HD coils
ARB2619 rear HD coils
Instead of the OME coils do a set of the MetalCloak 2.5" springs.
I already have the HD springs and like them quite a bit. Why do you recommend switching over the the MCs?
OGS121 JKS front track bar
OGS159 JKS rear track bar
Stick with these. Great track bars. I would add a rear track bar bracket though, TER1954776. You could actually save a little coin by getting this bracket and using the stock rear track bar instead of buying the rear JKS. The JKS will just allow you to fine tune but you won't be off by much if any with the bracket and those coils.
I also already have the OME frame side drop bracket for the rear track bar, this is sufficient? I just figured the rear track bar would be BETTER, but I won't spend the money if I don't have to.
Qty 2 – JKS2943 JKS adjustable sway bar links
Instead of these, replace your the front and rear sway links with 12.25". Yes, the same link from and rear. You have a rubi so you don't need disco sway links and with those coils/shocks you want your sway links long enough. Either Teraflex or MetalCloak. Whichever he prices lower.
I already swapped the fronts with the rears and am using longer links in the back. I forget which manufacturer they are, possibly TF. Are the rears too short for the front? The sway bar is damn near level.
QTY 2 - ARB60066L Long travel shocks
QTY 2 - ARB60067L Long travel shocks
Great shock! Love them!
TER1954700 rear lower bumpstops
TER1910234 front lower bumpstops
These are good.
Right now I have the TF Front Upper Bumpstops and I don't like them at all. They're too long and they move too much under flex.
CROWN FRONT BRAKE LINES
CROWN REAR BRAKE LINES
Skip these. In the rear, a pair of TER4304400 drop brackets is all you need. In the front, just remove the brake lines from the factory brackets and wire tie to the shock. They are plenty long enough for this setup. This will save some coin.
I already have the longer Crowns. I tried drop brackets and had a bad experience...
TER1653700 Front lower adjustable control arms or the Metalcloak arms. Flip a coin. They are both awesome arms.
Already have the TF Front LCAs
Instead of exhaust spacers, fix the drive line angle and exhaust issue both with a new front driveshaft 1310.
To be honest, I've never noticed that I'm hitting the exhaust. Even my friend who has the long travel shocks hasn't had this issue... yet. He's only been out wheeling once so far but I haven't had the issue on several trips. Long travel shocks may change this.
Here is what he includes in the OME kit along with my notes on changes and suggestions based on you running the same JKU as me a '14 Rubi.
ARB2618 front HD coils
ARB2619 rear HD coils
Instead of the OME coils do a set of the MetalCloak 2.5" springs.
I already have the HD springs and like them quite a bit. Why do you recommend switching over the the MCs?
OGS121 JKS front track bar
OGS159 JKS rear track bar
Stick with these. Great track bars. I would add a rear track bar bracket though, TER1954776. You could actually save a little coin by getting this bracket and using the stock rear track bar instead of buying the rear JKS. The JKS will just allow you to fine tune but you won't be off by much if any with the bracket and those coils.
I also already have the OME frame side drop bracket for the rear track bar, this is sufficient? I just figured the rear track bar would be BETTER, but I won't spend the money if I don't have to.
Qty 2 – JKS2943 JKS adjustable sway bar links
Instead of these, replace your the front and rear sway links with 12.25". Yes, the same link from and rear. You have a rubi so you don't need disco sway links and with those coils/shocks you want your sway links long enough. Either Teraflex or MetalCloak. Whichever he prices lower.
I already swapped the fronts with the rears and am using longer links in the back. I forget which manufacturer they are, possibly TF. Are the rears too short for the front? The sway bar is damn near level.
QTY 2 - ARB60066L Long travel shocks
QTY 2 - ARB60067L Long travel shocks
Great shock! Love them!
TER1954700 rear lower bumpstops
TER1910234 front lower bumpstops
These are good.
Right now I have the TF Front Upper Bumpstops and I don't like them at all. They're too long and they move too much under flex.
CROWN FRONT BRAKE LINES
CROWN REAR BRAKE LINES
Skip these. In the rear, a pair of TER4304400 drop brackets is all you need. In the front, just remove the brake lines from the factory brackets and wire tie to the shock. They are plenty long enough for this setup. This will save some coin.
I already have the longer Crowns. I tried drop brackets and had a bad experience...
TER1653700 Front lower adjustable control arms or the Metalcloak arms. Flip a coin. They are both awesome arms.
Already have the TF Front LCAs
Instead of exhaust spacers, fix the drive line angle and exhaust issue both with a new front driveshaft 1310.
To be honest, I've never noticed that I'm hitting the exhaust. Even my friend who has the long travel shocks hasn't had this issue... yet. He's only been out wheeling once so far but I haven't had the issue on several trips. Long travel shocks may change this.
See my comments above.
#20
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CROWN FRONT BRAKE LINES
CROWN REAR BRAKE LINES
Skip these. In the rear, a pair of TER4304400 drop brackets is all you need.
I would not use drop down brackets in the rear. I did and my upper sway bar bolt caught my brake line when stuffed and pulled it down! I replaced brake line, cut off excess blt and added extended brake lines. I also agree to get a new Coast, TW, etc front drive shaft, you are going to need it. I have the OME HD lift on my 2 dr.(3" of lift) with the standard shocks, JKS tb's frt/rear, Rusty's frt lca's, and when I did my first test flex, it tore the ds boot. Note: Auto trans.
Next upgrade OME LT shocks and taller rear bump stops and rear coil spring retainers.
CROWN REAR BRAKE LINES
Skip these. In the rear, a pair of TER4304400 drop brackets is all you need.
I would not use drop down brackets in the rear. I did and my upper sway bar bolt caught my brake line when stuffed and pulled it down! I replaced brake line, cut off excess blt and added extended brake lines. I also agree to get a new Coast, TW, etc front drive shaft, you are going to need it. I have the OME HD lift on my 2 dr.(3" of lift) with the standard shocks, JKS tb's frt/rear, Rusty's frt lca's, and when I did my first test flex, it tore the ds boot. Note: Auto trans.
Next upgrade OME LT shocks and taller rear bump stops and rear coil spring retainers.
Last edited by GunDude; 04-09-2015 at 12:49 PM.