jedg

Driver is barely in spec, passenger is out of spec.

Should be -0.6 to 0.1 I believe... so yeah, likely both your Cs are bent inward.

trickynick452

So can I just gusset the axle c s to
Prevent further bending and get an adjustable ball joint to bring it back into spec ?

jedg

I don't have experience with whether that will be sufficient. I believe so, but will defer to those with more knowledge than me.

Likely have to trim the C gussets to get them to fit properly before welding. I have no idea what the longevity with offset balljoints are.

larry0071

Naaa. At a fraction of a degree, you would never know or notice it. Like I said, I'd gusset it and leave it be. He's bent about a gnats hair. Not worth trying to spend money on replacing good ball joints (assuming that they are good) for offset balls to chase 0.4° on the one side. If it is keeping him up at night, I guess... do it. But that's not something that should bother you as long as your getting the gussets welded in to stop it where it is. If the grease seals start leaking and you pull them out and see that one part of the rubber seal is worn to nothing and the opposite side looks like new, you know that the tube is bent. Time to order a new complete axle.

If bent enough, first you get this:


Then you find its from here:


Then your wife gets mad when she's helping you change seals and gets grease on her like this!


And then you start planning to buy your Dynatrack or similar axle assembly from NorthRidge4x4.

Northridge4x4

We don't recommend adjustable ball joints. They offset a smaller ball to the side to get the adjustability which makes a weak ball joint even weaker. If you have any significant camber, there's a bigger issue.

Also, imagine that you rock your axle back to 90 degrees of caster, your toe in has now turned into camber. On a less exaggerated side, proper caster with proper toe can create the illusion of a little bit of camber, and can read as such.

Riptide9

Stay with the standard or heavy duty ball joints and do a google search for "jeep jk camber shim"
These tapered shims that fit under the spindle allow you to easily correct .5 to +1 degree of camber

trickynick452

It's hardly noticeable I know my axle is off center just bought an adjustable track bar to fix that but I guess I shouldn't be worried about the .4 degree of camber

werkzrs

I love this forum! I just went to the alignment shop, because as all jks, once balljoints start going bad, your steering and tire wear starts going to crap. None the less, they showed me my balljoints where shot and had lots of play aside from that, they recommended I get the offset balljoints because my driver's side tire has -1.5 camber and passenger side -1 camber. After reading enough on offset balljoint vs HD adjustable BJs (Terraflex/Synergy), I think i'll just get HD Balljoints. I don't hardcore wheel, but if im there, ill fix it right. I have Sahara JK w/ D30 axle. They quoted me $1800 parts and labor ($850 parts $950labor). They also stated my heim joint was dried up and the shot (play inside the joint) and needed need replacement. Calling my local 4x4 shop to see how much their labor will be. what are your guys thoughts? any feedback is greatly appreciated.

resharp001

$1800 to replace BJs is absolutely redonk. $250 for some BJs, and if you can't install yourself I'd guestimate $250-300 for a shop to install. Heim joint on your track bar or what? If that is it, simple bot on component. If you are game for replacing the ball joints yourself, we're here to help. Simple tools....it pretty much just takes time. Probably 3-4 hrs if you've never done it, but it's not technically difficult.

Sv_dude

The camber difference is nothing to worry about. A half a degree is nothing and I wouldn’t suggest offset ball joints at all.

Where do you have heim joints?

And as resharp said, replacing ball joints is pretty simple and you can rent the tool for free from your local auto parts store.