scaryfast

So I have been working on my non DD jku for a while and just can’t completely eliminate some wobble…maybe not DW?

2007 Sahara jku with the following work done:
synergy tie rod
synergy drag link
rancho hi steer outer knuckles
moog ball joints with 1500 miles on them




Steersmarts yeti trackbar
steersmarts frame side trackbar bracket
synergy raised trackbar bracket
old man emu 4” lift
tires road force balanced
bfg 35” mud terrain
17” fuel with backspacing
hub bolts torqued to soec
4.88s with new unit bearings
no steering stabilizer

No ball joint or unit bearing slack
no bushing issues with control arms
no Steering box slack

everything torqued to spec with a high quality torque wrench.

I can hit most any bump at 5 or 65 mph and the Jeep soaks it up with no issue. BUT. There is one bump that is more of a lowered swell in the road that can cause an oscillating effect, but only for a few seconds. I guess I could just not hit that bump…but would like to make this jku solid.

I have had dw, it was bad and this is not that. it seems like something else. First, this goes away without stopping after a second or two.

could this be just be a big tires issue…literally just went through everything again with torque wrench and all seems good.

Planman posts have been awesome and helped a ton but now I’m stuck. Thoughts from the group?

XJRefugee

If I am asking the same questions forgive me... is your trac bar and drag link parallel to each other? was an alignment done after the lift? toe-in at minimum? caster at minimum? if you were to rotate front tires to back ... any change to the DW could indicate a tire problem right?

resharp001

Have those unit bearings ever been changed on that '07? When I think about this description being more of a "swell" than a bump, my mind tends to go to bearings vs. hitting a bump or pothole that really shocks things for a moment.

scaryfast

I posted a picture of the trackbar and drag link to try and show their angles, They are nearly perfect. If you shine a laser level on them and just raise and lower the line, they are perfectly in alignment at the bolt locations from the high steer knuckles and all the relo brackets.

The lift has caster adjustments and I have had it in the shop to check toe and alignment 3 times. They tell me it’s perfect. It drives great and no tire wear. Maybe they could tie it in a little more?

i put new moog unit bearings on last year and actually pulled everything apart last night. they are still like new and tight with zero vertical or lateral movement with a gauge on it on both sides.

im starting to wonder if it’s in the control arms and it’s not bad/worn enough to be consistently prevalent.

resharp001

Sorry, going through that original post I do now see you note the UB's were new. Control arms are not a common issue, but I can recall a post or two where that did seem to be the OP's issue. The only other thing I can think of that you haven't mentioned is axle shaft u-joints, but that is really grasping at straws on that one. Tyler isn't a world away from me. If I didn't have couple kids graduating next weekend I'd drive out that way and get a 2nd set of eyes on everything and hit Gilmer for a bit. I can't blame you at all for wanting it solid. Even if you just avoid that one spot there will always be a little doubt in your mind.

You are 100% certain the BJs test good? I know you noted 1500 miles on em, but I wouldn't say Moog are any better than factory cept they are greasable. Out of all the parts that you've replaced the quality of those would be suspect to me. I'd have a very hard time believing the Synergy or SteerSmarts joints are an issue.

Jeff Pillsworth

I would look closely at control arms especially if they are stock and the jeep has been wheeled / flexed a fair bit. 14 years is a long time for stock control arm bushings.

scaryfast

I do believe the ball joints are solid right now but agree they won’t last long. I’m going with the ball joint deletes soon from American iron as soon as any slack shows up.

I think I’m going to start working on control arms and see what happens. Any thoughts on which ones I should start with first? Front lower first, then front upper?

Thanks for the support and thinking out loud with me on this guys!

Jeff Pillsworth

I would do front lower, then upper and if needed get the johnny joint kit for the upper axle bushings. I had Death wobble on my TJ that ended up being the upper axle bushings they often get forgotten about.

scaryfast

U/L front Control arms ordered. Will report back.

nthinuf

When you get a chance, go ahead and post the specs from the last printout they gave you. You indicate it drives great, so just some info to add to the discussion.