Normal axle movement?
#11
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Its a frankenstein lift. I can take a picture and paint it up. I could be way off, this will show to myself too if I am or not.
I read somewhere a steering stabilizer can make your jeep pull as well. The RC trackbar relocation bracket has a new steer stabilizer mount built in. I can also try taking it off and see what happens.
I have alot to look at and I thank you for all the input thus far.
I read somewhere a steering stabilizer can make your jeep pull as well. The RC trackbar relocation bracket has a new steer stabilizer mount built in. I can also try taking it off and see what happens.
I have alot to look at and I thank you for all the input thus far.
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If I need to flip my draglink would this work?
Rugged Ridge 18205.26 Inverted Drag Link for Jeep JK Wrangler : Amazon.com : Automotive
I have an extra pitman tierod end at home.
Rugged Ridge 18205.26 Inverted Drag Link for Jeep JK Wrangler : Amazon.com : Automotive
I have an extra pitman tierod end at home.
#13
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In my research I thought it was you can do either so long as your drag link and trackbar are parallel in the end. Well after the trackbar relocation bracket (raised it), they are much much more parallel then ever and its better with no bump steer really but now I get something different. Maybe at different angles of the trackbar I get different problems? I'm not an expert on suspension geometry and with very little experience I'm learning as I go. To me my drag link and trackbar are pretty parallel but not dead on. I will confirm that is the case in a bit when I get home.
I just see things that I'm not sure of and put it up here for feedback, if I knew what it would all take to go from 2.5" lift to a 3.5" lift I would have never done it, lol. But my jeep does look really good now and everyone and their dog only goes 2.5" lift so I stick out a bit now.
I just see things that I'm not sure of and put it up here for feedback, if I knew what it would all take to go from 2.5" lift to a 3.5" lift I would have never done it, lol. But my jeep does look really good now and everyone and their dog only goes 2.5" lift so I stick out a bit now.
If you raised the axle side track bar mount without either a drop pitman arm or a drag link flip, the mounting points are out of parallel.
If you flip the drag link, you need more than just an inverted link:
- You would need at least 3" front extended bumpstops, or you must cut and notch the frame to clear the raised drag link when the suspension articulates.
- You would need to drill or ream out the top of the knuckle to accept the flipped link end.
- You would need a tapered insert to install in the top of the knuckle to accept the flipped link end.
If you are running the RC drop pitman arm that comes with an RC axle side raised track bar bracket, you would need to reinstall a stock pitman arm to run a flipped drag link.
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Here are my pictures of my steering geometry. Seems my OEM trackbar mount was best but it had bad bump steer. Did I line things up wrong in my drawing?
Last edited by bbertram; 12-05-2013 at 07:12 PM.
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No, you need to go from the bolt to bolt. I don't see a DPA and that's a recipe for bumpsteer.
You did not have bumpsteer with the stock setup. It was probably a shimmy because of the worn mount.
Bumpsteer is when you change the arc pattern on one without the other like you have it.
You did not have bumpsteer with the stock setup. It was probably a shimmy because of the worn mount.
Bumpsteer is when you change the arc pattern on one without the other like you have it.
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#20
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No, your lines are not correct. If you have the frame side track bar in the factory location, the drag link mounted at the factory pitman arm and the axle side track bar on a raised aftermarket bracket you will need a drag link flip.