JeepAddOns-Chris

I know that I'm the seller on these, but I try to give unbiased reviews on everything I have access to (just ask some people that have called in on certain products and I've steered them towards better and occasionally less expensive options based on what they really need).

Main thing is not just use a BFH on them... you'll need a bearing race/seal driver to hammer them in otherwise you'll mushroom the ends. Those can be picked up cheap or even for free at the local auto parts store loan a tool program. No drilling and plug welds, etc etc. Axle tubes need to be cleaned and WD-40 to slick them up (also heard anti-sieze works great). Make sure they go in straight as well. That's all there is to it.

Now outside of the install, how are they compared to the others out there? First off, they're the only ones on the market that will work with 35 spline upgrade shafts. No point in running a 35 spline RCV shaft with weak axle tubes. These work with RCV shafts and all other upgrade shafts on the market. Second, ask an engineer which is stronger... a sleeve like this or one where you're drilling your tubes and plug welding it. This is the stronger sleeve design.

Add these along with the Nitro gusset/skid kit and some Nitro chromo shafts and you've got as strong a JK D30/D44 as can possibly be built.

jeep2007

I have asked a few Engineers here at work. Strength depends on a lot of things. For sleeves that are drilled, it is placement of the drilled holes and welds. For the hammered sleeve it is making sure the sleeve does not move on the axle tube. That, like the welded sleeves, makes the tube and sleeve as one.

As I am an aircraft mechanic, I asked Aerospace Engineers. I am sure there are Engineers on the forum that can also address these concerns/questions. I am all about input overload!

By the way, Chris is a good guy.

JeepAddOns-Chris

For strength on mine, it would totally be weak welds. I'm working on it that skill though, lol.

BTW, here's a link to the product AZJeeper was trying to link to in his first post in the thread.

http://www.truckaddons.com/jeep/Nitro/nitro_gear.htm

Stillmotion

glad I saw this now rather than latter. I'd like to see if someone out there has documented the install process on these. I'm a picture person.

subscribed

JeepAddOns-Chris

Pics from another write up and also instructions from the Nitro kit.

STEP 1: Refer to owner’s manual for disassembly to the point that your axle shafts can be removed from the housing. (Differential fluid will need to be drained)

STEP 2: Clean the axle tubes until they are free from all foreign debris.

STEP 3: Knurled end out, Insert the sleeve into the axle housing and evenly hammer the sleeves into the housing until the ends of the sleeves are flush with factory axle tube end. (Use of an aluminum puck or bearing race/seal driver set will be necessary to avoid “mushrooming” to sleeve end)

STEP 4: Repeat on opposite side

STEP 5: Refer to owner’s manual for reassembly and lubrications specs.

Ten2ndNova

Im also planning on doing this mod. I would think if holes were.drilled in the correct spot it should be plenty strong. Also, northridge4x4 has a great price on sleeves and gussets.

GT500

I just installed the Nitro sleeves & gussets...from Chris, on my own 2012.
I'll try and make this short and to the point!
Quality product! Sleeves and gussets fit well....
FWIW I've been doing custom axle work for 10+ years..
This is a big job, my sleeves are welded also & yes I drilled after the sleeves were forced in!
Absolutely senseless to install the sleeves without the gussets, I also welded the tubes to the housing.
Welding will take some time and patience, you need to jump around so not to warp the tubes or knuckles when welding....
I removed the entire axle from the Jeep, much easier to drill & weld when you can roll it around, yes I have a lift in my shop
I also removed the balljoints....for welding.
Even with a lift and all the correct tools this is an all day job!
By the time you disassemble, drill, weld, paint, reassemble you'll find the day is gone & nearly 30 cans of beer......optional..
I'll also say, I was pissed at myself for working so hard a D30....should have bought a Prorock! I also installed a ARB, 4.56 gears and Nitro CA shafts.
With all that said I put about 2K in parts plus a days labor....$500
Chance's are I'll do a Prorock soon anyway...not to mention I've also got a heavy duty Ford HP D44 sittin in my barn....
Sure you can leave the balljoints intact, no you dont have to weld the sleeves nor the tubes or remove the axle, or drink beer.....it's just the way I roll
Gene

JeepAddOns-Chris

The Teraflex sleeves and gussets I have available as well. They're $120 with free shipping, so slightly cheaper than where you mentioned. However, they're not the same thing as the Nitro kits and so not comparing apples to apples exactly. If you want to drill and weld, then the Teraflex is a great option and the price is definitely right!

A comparison.

Teraflex sleeve and gusset



Nitro sleeves



Nitro gusset/skids



Gene... lmao dude. That's OCD! I will disagree on the beverages being optional though!

Crazecodyk

Would sleeves and gaussets be needed for both the front and rear axels?

jeep2007

sleeve yes. Gussets only front.