bginn

I am seeking some expert guidance on an upcoming Jeep purchase. I have never owned a Jeep but want to buy a NEW Wrangler and make some modifications. I will mainly be driving small town (35-55 mph) during the week (~40 miles/day) and do some trail off roading about once a month. I was thinking to buy a JK 2-door Sport model with the basics, and put some money into it with some shops. And yes I know it will be expensive, so I was thinking a budget of $10k installed (for some cosmetic stuff to like fenders, nerf steps, leather seats, etc.).

What I want to do:
- suspension lift (probably 3")
- 35" tires on 17" alloy wheels
- Poison Spyder front and rear bumpers
- everything else if cosmetic really

My questions center around the lift and heavier weight from the tires and bumpers. I have been reading a lot and want to balance quality and performance with what will fit my driving needs.

- how sophisticated of a lift will I need? with or without control arms? with a track bar?
- i've read I should regear to 4.88? is that a fairly easy thing to have done, and with the front DANA 30 also?
- I read I should upgrade (reinforce) the c-joints in front? Install a new front drive shaft?

So is a JK 2-door Sport the right purchase in my case? A Rubicon is about $10k more and I think I would still have a lot of the same expense. But I do want to do things right and not make mods that will cause the Jeep to break down in a year or two.

Any perspective is appreciated.

ronin2120

Everyone has an opinion and none of them will be wrong nor will they be right.

First step get your jeep and then drive it. Based on how it handles and what you do when you go wheeling will help determine what you should purchase next.

nthinuf

Sounds like you might be needing some more research? There are two threads stuck right to the top of this Modified area that have some good info. You might even find sections on what each of the specific components actually does, and why you might want those components after a lift.

What gear ratio to choose will depend. There are two different engines, with different transmissions. Location and elevation can make a difference. How much added weight you add on can make a difference. Specific use can make a big difference. You will find some charts in one of the two sticky threads, so again, those might be a good place to start. And when using the charts, remember to use actual measured tire height, don't just plug in 35"!!!

This is a re-gearing writeup. Some say it is not hard, just a little intimidating. Most of us are happy to leave it up to the professionals. Depending on your location, the cost for a complete regear will be anywhere from $1000 to $3000, not including lockers if you want those. And yes, you have to regear both axles.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...gearing-82262/

What does a rubicon give you that a sport does not? Figure out the differences and then decide for yourself if the extra money is worth what you get. But note that the axle 'housings' are basically the same strength, regardless of the gear size. Same width, same tube diameter, same wall thickness, same c's, same brakes, same hubs. The differences are internal. But internally, yes, the front rubi 44 is much better. (the only think from a rubicon that I wish I had is the transfer case...)

Smudgeontheglass

A sport would be the way to go if you were building a monster rig. I went Rubicon simply because I wanted the 4:1 transfer case and lockers right off the bat. I learned later on the for decently challenging wheeling, the front Dana 44 should be changed or reinforced to prevent catastrophic failure (I have trussed mine). 4:88 is a bit much for a strictly highway rig but is probably the largest number ratio you should go in a Dana 30. I would settle in at around 4.56.

For a daily driver with 35s, I went with just a 2.5" lift. It rides alright and you definitely feel the punishment from having that much weight at your wheels. Get a kit with geometry correction brackets and you don't have to worry about control arms or track bars. At that height you can get away stock front driveshaft with just an exhaust spacer.

For everything else just read the sticky at the top of the modified section.

Gman*2007

Welcome to the forum.

TheDirtman

If you are going to mod route I would buy a used low mileage jeep if you can find one. 2012 or newer just for the greater hp and better transmission. There really is not any different from the 2012 to 2017 wrangler. Take off parts from a sport are worth about nothing new or used. Axles and gears will be the big thing as upgrades for them are going to cost you. If you are lucky you could find a used jeep that is already on the rubber size you want and is geared already.

bginn

nthinuf: why the wish for the Rubicon transfer case? What would that do for you over the lower transfer case?

thanks

Joe_B

the rubicon has the lower geared transfer case, the other models do not.

nthinuf

I have the older 3.8 auto. Even with 5.38's in the axles, I would like to be able to crawl slower at times. Not a huge issue since I'm not in rocks all that often, but there are times I really wish I had that tcase. Or maybe a rubicrawler.

YukonBlu

If you're gonna wheel it, even once a month or whatever, and you have the extra funds then get a Rubicon. Or you can do like i did with my TJ, get an X or Sport or similar, realize that you probably need or it would be a good idea to have bigger axles and also have lockers... then end up dumping a bunch more money getting upgraded axles and lockers. With my JK, i started with a Rubicon, that way I had a better base Jeep to start with, 44s front and back, lockers, E disconnects etc, and focus the hard earned dollars on wheels, tires, lift, armor.. stuff like that. If you start wheeling, and love it, u will end up upgrading your axles anyway to keep up with all the hot shots in your town.