I run the 2.5 MT w/ bilstein 5100s, The only thing I did to start was the exhaust spacer. I ran the stock wheels and tires with no spacers for about 3 months with no problem. The only thing I had rub was the swaybar links. I swapped them to the inside of the sway bar and mount, that did away with the rubbing. All said and done tho, proper backspacing/ spacers make a world of distance as far as stability.

I netted about 3 1/4 inches front and about 3 inches rear from the 2.5 lift.

I think the stops are RK 2" stops that I run. w Factory fenders no rubbing on 35's. w/ the bushwackers I have on now there would be no problems running 37s with a bit of pinch seam trimming.

All in all good kit and highly reccomended. Its well mannered and has plenty of flex (x2 on the retainer clips for the front)

Driveshafts are next on the list, but after 3k miles no signs of any abnormal wear.

Got mine from smashboogie, good crew w/ good customer support. theyll get you hooked up

 

Update:::

I am not interested in the 3.5" kit because my whole goal is to keep a low center of gravity. I also dont want to get into driveshaft issues .. at least off the bat anyways. If in a year down the road after some offroad abuse I find that I may need driveshafts, I will deal with it then. For now I have ordered the teraflex exhaust spacers to avoid contact with the front DS on the y pipe once the lift is installed.

So heres where im at.

I have the Bilstein 5100s for the 2-3.5" Lift. I just ordered the Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex kit. Comes with the coils, front lower control arms, sway bar links, extended brake lines, front track bar and rear track bar bracket. I find that this is a great start for me. sometime around next summer I will be adding Poison Spyder crusher flares (flatties) as well as either 35 or 37" tires on new wheels. I have decided on the Level 8 ZX wheels and still am unsure about whether or not I am going to try and squeeze in a 37" tire or not. I know it can be done. Once I add the tires I will add the remaining 6 adjustable control arms from RK (Front upper, Rear Upper, Rear Lower) and the rear track bar as well as rear extended brake lines and sway bar end links.

Along with the bilsteins and flex kit I ordered the following:
RK Real coil spring correction wedges
Teraflex exhaust spacer
1.5" Wheel spacer from Poison Spyder
Teraflex 2" rear lower bump stops
Teraflex 2" Front lower bump stops
Teraflex front spring retainer kit
Teraflex rear spring retainer kit

My question, should I invest in adding 1/2" or 1" teraflex coil spacers to add a little height in the rear or in both the front and rear? I have seen where others have done this and want to know if it is worth it or not. If so I want to do install everything at the same time so I am trying to figure out if I should add spacers before I do the install. All feedback and pictures are very much appreciated. Thanks yall

 

Being that you have a late generation JK with the 3.6L, You will likely still need to deal with the front drive-shaft. The engine is kicked up a bit more in the front and the exhaust is routed differently then the 3.8L JKs. If your only cruising the malls. you will probably be okay, but any amount of flexing and the front shaft won't last long with anything over 2" of lift. I currently have a TF leveling kit with 1.5" of lift in the front and have some slight rub/melting marks on the stock shaft boot from the exhaust.

If you are considering adding spacers to the 2.5" lift why didn't you just go with the 3.5"? Personally, I would only add spacers to a coil lift to correct sag from accessories.

 

One other thing.... Do yourself a favor and add C-Gussets while the coils are off. It's WAY easier to weld and paint. This should be one of your first mods if you plan to wheel your Jeep. I have seen JKs get bent upper Cs from running the stock 32s. (To be fair I also know of guys running 37s without an issue.) Avoiding big knocks in the front and use of the skinny pedal helps, but isn't a for sure way of avoiding this weakness. The repair costs FAR more than the prevention.

 

Glad we could point you in the right direction with you build. You should have asked us for pricing as we most likely would have been able to give you a better deal.

 

If I were you i wouldnt add the spacers at least not until you know for sure what tires you will be running. no need to put extra strain on your driveline and give yourself a harder steering geometry to correct. If you are getting flat fenders you can easily run that lift with 35s and no spacers needed. If you decide to get 37s you can add spacers or do what i did and add a 1 inch body lift to my 2.5 coil lift. I did that to keep my steering geometry low

 

I'll be calling soon. I haven't forgotten your help and rather long talk on options after TFTTs.

 

Sounds good. It was a nice chat, sorry to have taken you away from your cleaning at the time lol. Anytime you need anything you know how to get us.