New Lift installed = Death Wobble
#21
I've been studying as much as I can. This is my first Jeep and I'm learning as I go. I've already installed the AEV 2.5 dual sport and the geometry drop down brackets myself. As a result I got something goofy going on with the front end.. This is my plan of action: ..
1) Upgrade my bolts (not sure what kit or vender to go with?)
2) Loosing ever bolt I touched or should've touched. Shake the shit out of the front end and then re torque to spec.
3) Thoroughly go through PlanMans Checklist.
4) .. Well "4" is on backorder. New wheels and 35" Trail grapplers.
5) Get a good alignment.
6) install my new SS.
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1) Upgrade my bolts (not sure what kit or vender to go with?)
2) Loosing ever bolt I touched or should've touched. Shake the shit out of the front end and then re torque to spec.
3) Thoroughly go through PlanMans Checklist.
4) .. Well "4" is on backorder. New wheels and 35" Trail grapplers.
5) Get a good alignment.
6) install my new SS.
sent from a Dixie cup and string.
2) not a bad idea but I would add: before you loosen anything, grab your tires at the top and bottom and try and make them move by pushing towards your jeep on the top and away on the bottom, if you feel play, report back; take a pry bar and put it between the knuckle and the Inner C, try and pry the knuckle up (don't be a retard and forcefully do it, all you need is light pressure.); take pry bar and pry on your control arms where the bushings are, axle and frame side; rotational movement is fine on the drag link and tie rod, but lateral or vertical means you got issues; take pry bar and try to move your track bar around at the connecting end near the frame and the axle. AGAIN DON'T TRY AND HULK THIS CRAP JUST SEE IF THERE IS PLAY
3) sure
4)don't go to bigger tires or different wheels, put the stockers on it till you get it resolved.
5) the only thing for a alignment that can be done, is make sure the toe is correct. there are no other adjustments on a stock (pretty much what you have) suspension. The bracket you have adjust the caster, and camber can't be adjusted.
6) that's a band-aid.... don't band-aid because you'll screw up more stuff in the long run. Your jeep should be able to not run a steering stabilizer and be perfectly fine (I actually crunched mine flexing it out the other day and it rides and drives perfectly fine, but it really is only there to smooth out the bumpsteer even though lifted or stock there really is none if everything is good and tight)
#22
Just go and get your tires re-balanced and be done with it. I am almost positive that is your problem from what you have been describing.... Your doing things backwards. Start with the obvious then do what your doing now.
Your just wasting money. There is no need for a SS unless your OE is damaged or failed. Not sure what a "good" alignment is either.
Your just wasting money. There is no need for a SS unless your OE is damaged or failed. Not sure what a "good" alignment is either.
Last edited by SpicedCrusher; 06-12-2013 at 04:57 AM.
#23
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Just go and get your tires re-balanced and be done with it. I am almost positive that is your problem from what you have been describing.... Your doing things backwards. Start with the obvious then do what your doing now.
Your just wasting money. There is no need for a SS unless your OE is damaged or failed. Not sure what a "good" alignment is either.
Your just wasting money. There is no need for a SS unless your OE is damaged or failed. Not sure what a "good" alignment is either.
#24
Case in point- I had a friend with insane shimmy all around on his jeep and he thought it was loose TB bolts. We swapped my stock tires onto his jeep and it rode like butter. That narrows the problem down to tires being out of round- no need for a SS or to drop more money on TB's or brackets, just accept that the tires are out of round.
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#25
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Had same problem after 3" lift, steer stabilizer had nothing to do with mine either, even looked at ball joints they were fine, and made sure all bolts were tight. Then I found online about swapping trackbar bolts because factory ones shank is too narrow. Went to ace hardware and got 9/16" x 4" fine thread, shouldered, grade 8 bolts. Put those in and torqued them to 120 and haven't had one problem since! Even hitting these nasty RR tracks by my house that would always cause DW still nothing. If u got 5 bucks n 30 min it worth a try, I didnt think it would fix it but it did mine! Good luck!
#26
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Had same problem after 3" lift, steer stabilizer had nothing to do with mine either, even looked at ball joints they were fine, and made sure all bolts were tight. Then I found online about swapping trackbar bolts because factory ones shank is too narrow. Went to ace hardware and got 9/16" x 4" fine thread, shouldered, grade 8 bolts. Put those in and torqued them to 120 and haven't had one problem since! Even hitting these nasty RR tracks by my house that would always cause DW still nothing. If u got 5 bucks n 30 min it worth a try, I didnt think it would fix it but it did mine! Good luck!
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#27
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That's what I heard to but when I broke loose the factory bolts, they have all sorts of movement in there. It's worth a try man, worked for me and it's only like 5 bucks!
#29
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Well soo far this is what I've done.. Loosened all control arm bolts and replaced the track bar bolts to 9/16" , shook the shit out of the front end and then re torqued everything to spec. Then I replaced the drivers side tie rod. (Was going to do the passenger side at the time, but found out it's crimped.) Reset my toe in 1/16 (was way off after lift) But while working on it I discovered my drag link tie rod on the axle side is waisted. So that ones next. But I'm heading in the right direction, cause she's already driving wayyyyyy better even with the bad drag link end.
sent from a Dixie cup and string.
sent from a Dixie cup and string.