TokenMSJ

Get someone in the drivers seat and have them turn the steering wheel back and forth from 10 - 2 over and over again.. Climb under the front of the Jeep and start looking for the loose stuff.. Check all control arms on both ends.. Check both ends of the track bar.. Check the tie rod and drag link ends and adjustment points.. Check the ball joints.. Somewhere under there one or more of these points is loose, worn or has the wrong size bolt in the hole.. As I've been told, this ain't rocket surgery..

Gijoel

Seems like I may possibly have two issues going on. My gut tells me I have a tire issue that aggravates a DW if I stay around the 40/50mph range and/or a slow deceleration from around there and a poorly timed bump in the road. I've noticed a consistent shimmy around those speeds but now that I've installed the lift I've experienced full on DW.

sent from a Dixie cup and string.

ridg3runner

I'm thinking you may have overlooked a critical step mentioned in your instructions, the part that mentions having the vehicle alligned. As a result,your steering wheel may not be perfectly straight which will cause an ESP issue (ESP and lifts dont always work and play well together at first),along with other steering and handling issues. An alignment should be first and foremost in your solution.

RubyJeep08

Just my .02... When I installed new coils, shocks and the TF leveling kit I had DW. Got back home and sure enough I found one trackbar bolt I didn't tighten... No problems since!

iwaxmyjimmy

Just curious, but Do you know what consist of an alignment with these jeeps? The caster angles should be damn near stock with the drop brackets, which if he is using those he doesn't have adjustable control arms to adjust the caster nor is he going to press out the Inner C's and rotate them to correct them. The steering wheel being off center will just cause the ESP light to come on and traction control to stay on, and has no effect on Death Wobble. You can't adjust chamber angles unless someone has came up with some adjustable ball joint cups (rotates the upper ball joint around to either push the top of the tire in or out), or bend the inner C's, which is a hideous idea. The toe can be adjusted by rotating the tie rod which shouldn't have been touched.

To the OP double check all your suspension bushings, All your bolts, All your jam nuts, and go get your tires road forced balanced (most tire shops can do this). Stop playing guessing games on a forum, because you're going to get alot of retards who don't know their ass from a hole in the wall and pay people to work on their shit, but consider themselves automotive specialist, telling you this or that because they saw it some where up here. Double check yourself and if you still can't figure it out take it somewhere. But when you take it somewhere ask them to explain it so you understand it because its over your head.

ridg3runner

Yeah i suppose it is tough to get more than a flashing light or two out of the ESP at the mall. Try living on a narrow winding country road sometime. If he bought a kit without the adjustable arms,he wasted his money. I was simply being nice and giving him food for thought rather than telling him he doesnt have a clue what death wobble is,but if he wants to know first hand just loosen up that trackbar mount just tad and take your girl out for icecream. Just my opinion..

iwaxmyjimmy

I've got about 3 1/2 inches without adjustable arms and my lift does fine and actually outflexes some with long arms............ then again I grew up on back country roads of North Carolina and have driven mine with an uncentered steering wheel across country (from NC to SoCal) and thats all that happened to me. Btw driving up and down switch backs in the mountains really can make the light just stay on and nothing happen.. weird... hell I don't even have a rear sway bar and there's no crazy body roll..... Most the time Death wobble is a loose component, I've even seen it from not having enough grease in draglink and tie rod ends.

ridg3runner

Youre absolutely right,but DW wont go away the faster you go as it seems to do with his. And I dont think "slamming" on the brake helped matters with him. I'm running a 4 1/2 with 37's and have spent a lot of time AND MONEY dialing mine in. Finally just made the ESP go away for good. ( snip-snip)

Gijoel

I've been studying as much as I can. This is my first Jeep and I'm learning as I go. I've already installed the AEV 2.5 dual sport and the geometry drop down brackets myself. As a result I got something goofy going on with the front end.. This is my plan of action: ..

1) Upgrade my bolts (not sure what kit or vender to go with?)
2) Loosing ever bolt I touched or should've touched. Shake the shit out of the front end and then re torque to spec.
3) Thoroughly go through PlanMans Checklist.
4) .. Well "4" is on backorder. New wheels and 35" Trail grapplers.
5) Get a good alignment.
6) install my new SS.

sent from a Dixie cup and string.

iwaxmyjimmy

Not true. Buddy of mine threw an old school dana 60 up front under his Chevy K5. At 30-40 mph he had death wobble. It was initiated by rough pavement. Speeds above that no problem. I rebuilt the king pins and added a washer to shim the spring and it solved the issue. Another buddy in his Jeep Cherokee had death wobble, it only happened around 55-60 when you touched the brakes. Ended up being worn control arm bushings. Another friend of mine has Death wobble on his 2500 4x4 Dodge, ended up being a worn track bar bushing and his wheel bearings/unit bearings were worn on his front axle. His was really noticeable at 58-62 mph, and at 65 it was completely gone. The OP needs to use a pry bar and check for play in anything under the front suspension. Because it can be anything, but his reaction of slamming on brakes was because he felt his vehicle was out of control and its a human reaction. But most the time when you're experiencing death wobble hitting the brakes can actually make it worse. You're better off with just letting out of the throttle and coasting to a safer speed


Btw you just disabled your ESP, did you make sure none of the tone rings had a hair line crack causing the wheel speed sensors to read incorrectly? Were the axles evenly spaced under the frame? that's the biggest reason for it. Also did you ever check to see what codes it was spitting out to see if maybe you damaged a sensor? Its really easy to keep that system up and running, in my own opinion. Adjust where you can to keep everything within spec of the stock suspension and you have no problems. Body roll doesn't effect it at all. Its wheel speed and axle location.