New to JK's, and all affiliates and looking for help.
08-07-2010, 08:12 AM
#21
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I'll look into the C gussets and tubes a little later down the road.. this is already going a little outa budget and I've got some time before heading out to San Diego.
Are intakes really worth it? I know cleaning them is easy as hell if you buy the cone ones or even aftermarket filters, but is there a power/performance difference? little off topic but it popped into my head after looking at Woods site.
Well after reading about the cam bolts i'm kinda iffy on the BDS lift now.
What TF would you recommend? Only reason i was looking at the BDS in the first place was cause the reviews i read from other sites and such said it rode the same as stock which i didn't really care about but seemed like a plus.
Are intakes really worth it? I know cleaning them is easy as hell if you buy the cone ones or even aftermarket filters, but is there a power/performance difference? little off topic but it popped into my head after looking at Woods site.
Well after reading about the cam bolts i'm kinda iffy on the BDS lift now.
What TF would you recommend? Only reason i was looking at the BDS in the first place was cause the reviews i read from other sites and such said it rode the same as stock which i didn't really care about but seemed like a plus.
I've looked a the faq's a little closer on what you've said, and came to the conclusion that it doesn't look like i'll need new drive shafts.
1. because its a 4dr so the drive shafts are reportedly longer.
2. i have a manual tranny, therefor i don't have to replace the front drive shaft because it doesn't hit the skid plates/won't tear the boot. Although I'm not sure what height that is for.
as far as adjustable control arms.. would actual control arms for front and rear, or just front ones be better? or would i be fine going with something along the lines of this http://www.quadratec.com/products/16502_4300.htm ?
1. because its a 4dr so the drive shafts are reportedly longer.
2. i have a manual tranny, therefor i don't have to replace the front drive shaft because it doesn't hit the skid plates/won't tear the boot. Although I'm not sure what height that is for.
as far as adjustable control arms.. would actual control arms for front and rear, or just front ones be better? or would i be fine going with something along the lines of this http://www.quadratec.com/products/16502_4300.htm ?
Basic spring and shock lift (one that has an upgrade path) to clear your 35's.
Front and rear adjustable track bars.
Front upper control arms to adjust caster.
Diff covers.
Relocate your steering stabilizer and evap canister kits cost $110 and you can do it yourself (had to pimp my stuff here
). Fender trim job.Next steps in order:
1. Drag link flip kit. Helps prevent death wobble and improves drivability.
2. Upgrades to lift kit.
3. Drive shafts.
I'm trying to leave my kits out of this, but there might be some good stuff on my website that you can add to the list. Especially if you're going to be on the rocks a bit. Call me when you come out to Cali and I'll add you to my wheelin trip email list. We will make it perfectly clear, what you need to upgrade (code for repair) next.
Last edited by Woods; 08-07-2010 at 08:14 AM.
08-15-2010, 06:43 AM
#22
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Well I've set up the appointment with the shop to have my lift done. i talked with the guy, names Chad, and he recommended about the same things that have been recommended here with the exception of adjustable track bars and control arms... i still wanna have those done from what you've recommended, but while i was there, someone with the same lift they recommended me came in and told me, he hadn't done the adjustable control arms, but had done the fixed control arms and steering stabilizer which is recommended in the BDS parts book. He was pretty happy with the lift said no rubbing great driver, etc. pretty much glorified it and said that he didn't have any problems with it.
Track bars look fairly simple to install aren't they? they're the thing in front of the steering stabilizer on woods's site correct? seems like they just bolt into the bracket. Diff. covers meaning like rock gear and what not? as far as the evap canister relocation, I'll probably go with the Poison Spyder evap skid. As far as drive shafts go, i'll do those when i go different gears in around a year or so..
Sorry about not replying for so long, laptop has been on the fritze since i went to the shop on tuesday. I do apprectiate the info and time you guys have put in to answer my questions.
Thanks.
Track bars look fairly simple to install aren't they? they're the thing in front of the steering stabilizer on woods's site correct? seems like they just bolt into the bracket. Diff. covers meaning like rock gear and what not? as far as the evap canister relocation, I'll probably go with the Poison Spyder evap skid. As far as drive shafts go, i'll do those when i go different gears in around a year or so..
Sorry about not replying for so long, laptop has been on the fritze since i went to the shop on tuesday. I do apprectiate the info and time you guys have put in to answer my questions.
Thanks.
08-15-2010, 12:47 PM
#23
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In all seriousness you are taking ur Jeep to the MOST expensive place in hampton roads. The work is satisfactory, but they are gonna bend u over with the price. There are numerous other quality places that will set u up, or just do it yourself.
08-15-2010, 01:07 PM
#24
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Which kit did you decide on?
Yep, not hard to install. Easier with a second set of hands, though, as you need to move the axle over or turn the steering wheel to line the holes up.
See the pic up top and the re-centering the axle section in this one. The rest of the write-up is great also, so may as well read it all.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment
Any of the heavy duty aftermarket covers will work, just search around for opinions. Depending on how and where you drive, you can probably wait on these.
Watch the rzeppa's on both ends (the joint at the tcase end of both shafts). The new angle from being lifted will pinch them, and they will end up tearing and start to spit grease. May not be an issue on the rear, but definitely keep an eye on the front. (and as noted previously, you will need one set of adjustable control arms to set the angles for each driveshaft when replaced.)
Track bars look fairly simple to install aren't they? they're the thing in front of the steering stabilizer on woods's site correct? seems like they just bolt into the bracket.
See the pic up top and the re-centering the axle section in this one. The rest of the write-up is great also, so may as well read it all.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment
Diff. covers meaning like rock gear and what not?
As far as drive shafts go, i'll do those when i go different gears in around a year or so..
Last edited by nthinuf; 08-15-2010 at 01:11 PM.
08-18-2010, 04:01 PM
#25
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I actually went with the bds lift. after looking at reviews and write ups and what not and talking to that other guy with the same setup it seemed like the best idea. although i'll know when i actually put it on.
in regards to price they gave me a 10% discount on all parts, which i thought was pretty cool and i couldn't really seem to find any info through online searching about other shops in the area, at least not in looking for auto shops and what not... mainly brought up stuff like pep boys and the like. doing it myself isn't really an option considering i don't have a garage, tools (other than a 3/8" ratchet and t45 and t50 for the top and doors), or the time/technical know how to do it myself.
i did opt to keep the stock tires for now and wait for a while, possibly have those put on when i go home for the holidays because at $27/tire for mount and balance is way to expensive in my book considering i know the shops back home, that and I'm gonna be putting on around 3500-4k miles in the next few months.. so try and wear these tires down a little more and suck the good gas mileage out of them for a little longer.
Since the track bar is as simple as i thought i'll prolly do it on the parking lot here.. although they prolly won't like me working on the truck in the parking lot...
rzeppa's meaning the boot on the drive shaft?
in regards to price they gave me a 10% discount on all parts, which i thought was pretty cool and i couldn't really seem to find any info through online searching about other shops in the area, at least not in looking for auto shops and what not... mainly brought up stuff like pep boys and the like. doing it myself isn't really an option considering i don't have a garage, tools (other than a 3/8" ratchet and t45 and t50 for the top and doors), or the time/technical know how to do it myself.
i did opt to keep the stock tires for now and wait for a while, possibly have those put on when i go home for the holidays because at $27/tire for mount and balance is way to expensive in my book considering i know the shops back home, that and I'm gonna be putting on around 3500-4k miles in the next few months.. so try and wear these tires down a little more and suck the good gas mileage out of them for a little longer.
Since the track bar is as simple as i thought i'll prolly do it on the parking lot here.. although they prolly won't like me working on the truck in the parking lot...
rzeppa's meaning the boot on the drive shaft?
08-18-2010, 04:11 PM
#26
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It's the tiny little joint at the tcase end of the shaft, not the big boot. (the big boot covers the long splines that slide in and out, the one that tears on teh corner of the tranny on auto's) The rzeppa bind is simply due to the angle after being lifted...
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ock+driveshaft
Here is another one
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ock+driveshaft
Here is another one
Last edited by nthinuf; 08-18-2010 at 04:15 PM.
08-22-2010, 11:46 AM
#27
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god damn. that's pretty brutal for just driving.. wouldn't think anything to that extent just from lifting it. will be sure to keep an eye on it, thanks for the update.
I'll post some pics on here soon. just gotta get out to someplace without a ton of cars around... should be an adventure.
i have to say though, the stock tires don't look that small at all considering the amount its been lifted.
now to talk about the lift, it drives the same, if not better than stock. noticed over rough roads i don't bounce around as much and is much easier to keep it in control. over the larger bumps on the road it's way better than stock, doesn't dip anywhere near as far and the bumps seem to get absorbed almost completely so i barely even feel what was making me bounce around and the stuff in the back get thrown all over the place now.
all in all im happy with it, just have to see if anything happens in the next few weeks of driving considering I've only driven it about 20 miles or so since picking it up.
I'll post some pics on here soon. just gotta get out to someplace without a ton of cars around... should be an adventure.
i have to say though, the stock tires don't look that small at all considering the amount its been lifted.
now to talk about the lift, it drives the same, if not better than stock. noticed over rough roads i don't bounce around as much and is much easier to keep it in control. over the larger bumps on the road it's way better than stock, doesn't dip anywhere near as far and the bumps seem to get absorbed almost completely so i barely even feel what was making me bounce around and the stuff in the back get thrown all over the place now.
all in all im happy with it, just have to see if anything happens in the next few weeks of driving considering I've only driven it about 20 miles or so since picking it up.