grim_creation

Hi,
I'm here in Norfolk, VA and stopped in a shop to ask about having a lift done. They gave me a quote of about 3500 for a 3" lift with 35" toyo M/T's. Took the quote and looked for the same parts/alternative ones that might be cheaper, found em for way less than they had marked and called em up and they said if i brought my own parts/tires that wouldn't be a problem. Here's my question with running 35's, what do i absolutely need to run 35's? I've read about re-gearing but is it absolutely necessary? What are peoples opinions of running 35's on the stock 3.21's? is it ridiculously slow/sluggish?
have an unlimited x 4 dr 6 spd BTW. Much appreciate the help.

Sharkey

Click this link first: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ery-Newbie-Has

It will answer many of your questions, and maybe even give you some additional ones to ask.

Edit: I re-read my post and it seemed kind of blunt. Sorry...not my intention. The FAQ section is amazing and will provide you with a great base of information from which to fine tune any further questions you may have specific to your actual build.

grim_creation

I've read through portions of this and got to the point about the bare minimum for 35" tires... what are axle C gussetts? are they expensive/hard to install? Also looking at the chart and was reading yesterday about how rpm's and gas mileage aren't really proportional for a lack of a better word. Not that i really care about gas mileage that much considering i want to do a lift with 35's. But won't the higher rpm's really hurt the engine? or is that more towards the inline 6 like i had in my 2000 grand cherokee and doesn't really apply to the v-6 motor of the jk? another thing I was wondering about is should the shop.. which specializes in modifying jeeps/trucks re-adjust the speedometer and caster for me? With re-gearing, i know i have to do both the front and rear gear cases at the same time, what about the transfer case for the 4 wheel drive? Will this need to be replaced?
Don't worry about it. I'm a pretty blunt person myself.

TeraFlex

They can take a few hours to install. You can upgrade to a Rubicon t-case for the better low range option.

Woods

Axle C-gussetts are support brackets that get welded between the axle tube and inner c-brackets. Depending on how you drive, you're also going to want to replace or reinforce the axle tubes. This isn't a simple job for the standard do-it-yourselfer. Welding is involved with both parts of this job. I'd look for a shop that does some fabrication, to do this sort of work. I wouldn't trust some young kid that works at a large chain, or most dealers to do this type of work. Here's a link: http://www.offroadevolution.com/stor...cts.php?cat=25

The 3.8 likes to run at higher RPM's. I cruise at over 3000 on the highway. No changes to the transfer case are necessary and again we need more info. to make a good recommendation. The Rubicon T-case has lower gearing and is better suited for harder offroading. Atlas is the ultimate, but much more dough.

Let us know what type of driving/wheelin you'll be doing and you'll get better answers.

Sharkey

I'm by no means an expert (but I spend a lot of time reading this forum) so hopefully someone else will chime in and correct me if I say something way off base.

C gussets come in a few varieties (see Off Road Evolution or Teraflex as a couple of examples) and are used to strengthen the portion of the end of the front axle housing that looks like a C. The factory housing is prone to some bending with larger tires.

Gearing - from my reading, the general consensus appears to be that the JK motor is not harmed by regearing. If you look at most of the charts, you are only talking about a few hundred rpm difference with the regearing anyway. I think there is an argument to be made that the regearing helps the motor work in a more efficient range, which should mean that the motor is actually stressed less with the new gears than it would be trying to keep 35s rolling with stock gears. I would also think the transmission would be less stressed because you won't be shifting in and out of gears so often (at least not in an auto like I have).

Transfer Case - I don't see why you would have to replace your transfercase and it seems like a ton of people here are running 35s and bigger without any modification to the transfercase, but hopefully someone else can jump in on this topic.

Speedometer - you will need to use something akin to the Superchips or Hypertech programmers to reset the speedometer. Which suits you best is really going to depend on your budget and what feature set matters to you. Generally speaking though, it seems people are very happy with the Superchips (this is the route I will be going when my JK finally grows up.)

Caster - this is another area where the faq section on this forum can be very helpful, and another area where the type (and height) of lift you purchase is going to play an important part in what you are able to correct and what the setting should ultimately be.

EDIT: Woods types faster than me!!!

grim_creation

alright so, I'm pretty easy on it on road, as easy as i can be with the roads around here. lots of highway coming up here, cross country highway... As far as wheelin goes. i do some muddin and climbing hills back home with deep ruts.. by deep i mean they swallowed my buddies neon and tipped it on its side and then his ford expedition three days later.. same thing and had to get towed out. Not to sure on rock crawling.. never tried it. I'll be hitting the sand dunes once i get out west next may or so, and probably heading up the mountain to go skiing so probably heavy snow? depends on the road.. I'm used to the snow and can pretty much drive anything in it though. I'd prolly opt for re-inforcing the tubes, as axles seem like they would be a much pricier option, although welding ain't cheap either.
Good to know about the transfer case. that appeases a lot of confusion on my part, although maybe down the road if i find myself wheelin a lot.
Totally forgot to put the lift height on here, looking at a 3" BDS lift, shocks and coils, not a long arm kit. keeping the stock wheels and putting spacers in.
sorry about being slow to reply, my typing skills are not what they used to be and i really appreciate you guys being patient with my non-existent knowledge/lack of info.

EDIT: the shop I'm having do it is etaoffroad.com/home.html[/url] in case you were wondering.

Woods

Don't know anything about ETA,but they look like the kinda shop I'd trust. From what you're saying, I'd really consider tubes and c-gussets a minimum. Depending on how hard you hit the skinny pedal, mud rocks and sand can be as hard on your JK as anything. I'd also take a hard look at the Teraflex lift.

nthinuf

If you decide on that BDS kit, do a quick search on Cam Bolts. Get some feedback so you can make an informed decision on whether or not to install them...

HV

TeraFlex Kit is the way to go . you will be thrilled with there kit