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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
If you reverted to 2.5" springs, your caster would still be a bit low....probably around 3.3° guestimating, but not as bad. It would still be advisable to do some caster correction, be it $100 control arm brackets or lower adjustable arms that you could make a bit longer than stock. The steering angle would flatten out some as a byproduct of bringing the jeep down. If the DS boot has not ripped yet the life would be extended, but no guarantees there. As noted above, it can happen at 2.5" too, but it's not as much of a given as it is at 3.5".
Unfortunately, there's nothing inexpensive about modded vehicles. That is just kinda what you get into when heading down that path. Almost everything is interconnected and you can't touch one thing without having an impact on various other things.
I dug up one of my favorite images for you.....lol...I take no credit in its creation -
Last edited by resharp001; 01-26-2023 at 07:40 AM.
Thank y’all for the replies. I looked at the pitman arm and it seems to be stock. I have chased this bump steer until I’m blue in the face. I really appreciate the insight. All of the steering components are less than a month old, so it would be hard to convince the wife I need to redo it again. If I were to drop it down with 2.5” springs, would I eliminate the need to purchase adjustable control arms and aftermarket DS. I just want it to drive right with 35s on it and be ok I’m the woods.
You could sink more money into it that way verses pushing through, simply because you are almost there. The relocation brackets are a good inexpensive option if you are not worried about clearance. However, really consider TeraFlex Sport Control Arms lower front and upper rear. They are non-adjustable so you really wouldn't need to get it aligned as there is nothing to adjust. The Yeti flipped drag link is a no drill piece that takes the place of the existing drag link, just loosen the adjustment sleeve and screw the Yeti in until it slips back into the hole on the knuckle, then make your adjustments to center the wheel. But, do it on the ground. This really is all you should need to get everything back on the road.
01-26-2023 | 07:35 AM
