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New Gears and Pinion Bearing Goes out

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Old 03-07-2009, 11:16 AM
  #21  
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Default They pay-

The shop should pay. I would give one more chance to own up to shoddy workmanship or their BS excuse of having 3 people check the work- C'mon man give me a break! The last time I had 3 people check something was never.
Old 03-07-2009, 01:27 PM
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Ahh hell no, they should fix that on they're dime. My guess is that they warped the bearing race when pressing it off the original pinion, then re-used the bearing on the new pinion. Then overtorqued the piss out of it. I assume that when the bearing failed, the R & P suffered damage as well?? I believe that they should cover all of the damages consequential to them having re-used the pinion bearing.
Old 03-07-2009, 03:03 PM
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what a dick. I would go to the shop and tell him that you want to call yukon parts with him and tell them about the failure and find out why their 1 year warranty does not cover parts installed in that shop. That way the shop can discuss the preload and how three guys checked it to them. If yukon wont replace the gears, and they won't either, I would ask them for the documentation that said instalation by that shop waves all rights to warranty on the parts. Then I would tell them about how I am going to let everyone on the internet know about the warranty of yukon gears, and the shops labor. That is a sh!tty situation... and I wish you were local, I would love a chance to talk to the owner of that shop.

You could always go to civil court, but if it is like Texas it is likely pointless. I have a judgement against a local shop and can't get him to pay a dime.
Old 03-07-2009, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stWaffleMkr
They Supplied the gears and minimum install kit. They said I would only need a minimum install kit due to the fact I only have 4K on my Jeep.
You cannot re-use pinion bearings after pressing them off. That right there makes it their fault. Period.
Old 03-07-2009, 04:00 PM
  #25  
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There is a reason to pay for everything with a credit card. If you did that you have him by the short hairs - dispute the charge immediately. If you paid by check and it hasn't cleared cancel it ASAP. If you paid with cash you have no leverage there.

I looked and you are in TX and I don't know the law in Texas. I know California has the BAR, or Bureau of Automtive Repair that regulates repair shops. If TX has a similar agency contact them and file a complaint. They will investigate and can impose penalties and discipline shops. They may be able to force him to fix it.

Write the shop a letter detailing the problems that you are having and ask him to fix it. In the letter tell him that if he refuses you are going to take it to another shop and pay them to repair it and also have the other axle checked for improper workmanship. Then present him with the bill and take him to Small Claims Court. You will probably get a judgement against him. You can then either file a lien against him or in some jurisdictions you can apply with the shrrrif for a "till tap" whereby a sherrif comes in and sits in his business and collects all the money that comes in until the judgement is satisfied; and by the way he has to pay for the sherrifs time.

Call your local BBB and file a complaint. Then inform him that you are going to join every single forum with any local presence ad let it be known how they treated you. Attend a meeting of all the local off road groups and let them know. Contact your local District Attorney. A lot of DA offices have people on staff that deal with unethical and fraudulent business practices.

What you basically have to do is be a hard ass and make him realize that the cheapest thing for him to do is make the repair and get you out of his hair.

BTW, what type of warrantee were you given. Do they have anything posted about a warrantee or a sign that says all repairs are as is? I have never heard of a legit shop not giving at least a thirty day warrantee on parts and labor.

You have some footwork to do to get this resloved; get cracking. Make this puke regret the day he agreed to do the job.
Old 03-07-2009, 04:05 PM
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In texas, you have to collect for yourself if you win a judgment in your favor from small claims court. If they don;t feel like paying you, no one will make them. Unless they have a bunch of extra crap in their name that you can easily use to collect your money back, it is almost impossible to get a dime. I tried all the methods even filed a lean against his bank account... got no were. It is better to try to work something out if possible.
Old 03-07-2009, 06:16 PM
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If you paid by credit card, I would dispute the charge. This guy has made it clear he has no intention of fixing it. If you force him to fix it against his will, he will likely set the gears so they will fail in a few thousand miles anyway.

I would try to get out of the credit card charge and let him sue you civil for it. I don't think he would try this in court because he does not have a good argument for the court. If you pay him, then YOU try to sue him, you may win but will likely never see the money.

Find another shop, explain the problem, have them do what they can to help you in court to explain the problem was the installer and wait to see if they sue you.

If the shop tries to tell you it's illegal not to pay them, in your case it's not. You paid already but they did not deliver the product, so you pulled the payment. At that point, it becomes a civil matter rather than a criminal matter.

If you paid by check...try to get it cancelled first thing Monday morning.
Old 03-07-2009, 11:04 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bigbluejk
In texas, you have to collect for yourself if you win a judgment in your favor from small claims court. If they don;t feel like paying you, no one will make them. Unless they have a bunch of extra crap in their name that you can easily use to collect your money back, it is almost impossible to get a dime. I tried all the methods even filed a lean against his bank account... got no were. It is better to try to work something out if possible.
so thats why everyone in TC has a gun

I went through something similar except my gears lasted 1800mi, they had problems setting them up, I took 4 trips there before I could finally drive the jeep home without it making noises just backing it out of their shop. Had trouble with the lockers working and the lights blinking in 2wd even, they of course had no idea how to fix it, told me to take it to the dealer next door to them and they would fix it under warranty. the dealer of course said no way. When the gears went after 1800 mi there was NO way I would let those guys touch it again. Well it was a good thing I didnt, they had broken parts siliconed one of them together and put it back inside my rear The crush sleeve was never crushed so the pinion gear set correctly. It cost me 3000 to get it fixed but I have piece of mind knowing it was done 100% correctly the 2nd time.

I hope you didnt pay those idiots cash. Good Luck!

pic of some of my broken parts, you can see the silicone on the plastic, the one plunger was totally missing front the front locker, I guess they broke it and figured I didnt really need it
Old 03-08-2009, 03:08 AM
  #29  
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This is pretty common for shops that don't know correct gear installation procedure. I can almost bet with 100% accuracy that the pinion bearing preload was incorrect. That's one of the most common mistakes in setting up gears. They should cover it. Look at it like this. Before THEY touched it, everything was fine. Now, all of a sudden they say a defective bearing caused it? How dumb does that sound?
Old 03-08-2009, 04:44 AM
  #30  
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When speaking about the pinion preload, and the torque measurement, it is a little different than just straight torque. That 10-20 LB IN measurement is NOT the torque of the nut tightness. It is how much torque is required to turn the pinion gear (WITHOUT the carrier installed) with the nut tightened and the crush sleeve crushed. This is the actual measurement of preload itself. ALL tapered roller bearings must have preload or they will burn up in short order. Likewise, as John mentioned, too much bearing preload will cause the same result. Either way, the shop is clearly at fault here. The actual torque of the pinion nut itself is irrelevent, because of the crush sleeve. You MUST crush the crush sleeve FIRST, and THEN achieve final pinion bearing preload. Usually, it takes around 100-150 LB FT of torque to crush the sleeve. Because no two crush sleeves will crush exactly the same, you will not find a set in stone torque spec on the pinion gear nut, but only a possible "range". My best guess about what went wrong is, they did not crush the sleeve completely. As the Jeep was driven, the sleeve crushed down the rest of the way, and lost whatever bearing preload there was, because the sleeve was not crushed properly. Nine times out of ten, you can get away with overtorquing the pinion nut a little bit, and the preload will "adjust" itself out through a little wear. As long as the pinion bearing is not grossly over tightened, it will probably live, because there is a steady supply of gear oil on it during operation.


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