RedrockX

hmmm...
now i'm thinking what a shop might cost to swap out a set of shafts..?

i mean really, vs spending that kind of $$ on torq wrenches and the possibility of screwing it up.

some things i dont mind doing myself, but when it can end up costing me more in the long run if i f it up... i'd rather give a pro the business.

RedrockX

and THAT will make my ass feel a LOT better.




more power to the "do it yourself" types.

( it is an excuse to by more TOOLS..!!)

2drREDROCK

Just wondering
Is there a difference between the 1310 and the 1350 driveshalfts?
I have been running my 3" Fabtech for 4,000kms and not a single problem,yet
I'm for sure going to look into it with my local shop

wayoflife

might not be a bad idea. if you are planning to get new gears sometime soon, i'd just do it yourself as the crush sleeve will get replaced anyway

the size of the u-joint and yokes. the 1350's are a lot stronger.

2drREDROCK

would it make a big difference?

RedrockX

sorry... not trying to pad the post count or anything...

but its starting to sound really good to get the new drive shafts when you regear, so they can get the new yokes on the pinion from the start.


BUT... how would you get the length for the new shaft, so you would have it ready to put on...?

there should be a semi standard chart of some kind (or input from those who have done it) something like:

2dr, manual, 4-5" lift, dana 44 rear, dana 30 front = XX" rear/XX" front shaft
4dr, auto, lift ........

with flange style vs with yoke style is the lenght still the same...? what is XX?

2drREDROCK

Just wondering,because the Fabtech kit calls for the 1310 driveshalfts and the guys were talking about the 1350,but those are hitting

wayoflife

aftermarket driveshafts have a range of travel and you can buy whatever is available within the 3"-5" range and be okay. of course, getting a custom shaft made specifically for your lift will get you a shaft that is more accurate, but, i haven't seen this level of accuracy to be something you really need.

1310's are more affordable and will get you what you want. however, you should know that the factory flanges are actually stronger than 1310 yokes. 1350's are a lot stronger and have stronger yokes as well. but, unless you are running around on 37's or bigger tires, you should be fine with 1310's.

as far as 1350 bolts hitting goes, you will only have this problem if you are using a replacement pinion flange. if you use a yoke, you will not have this problem. also, i think we are starting to see that 2-doors with a flange are not having this problem either.

RedrockX

Thanks again WOL...
i wasnt sure how much room i had to play with.

x No Compromise Offroad x

Not to Hi-jack but to anyone fairly local to NC with a 2-door , I have a BRAND NEW NEVER INSTALLED set of 1310 JE REEL driveshafts with all hardware for sale for $600 + shipping.....I paid $810....willing to take loss just to get rid of 'em

..I'll also be posting this in the FOR SALE thread soon!

....I started my buggy build before i could even get them installed and can't use them with 41" tires