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New Driveshafts? When?

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Old 09-05-2008, 08:02 AM
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I say use stock until the warranty is out.
Old 09-05-2008, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by putnam dan
It is worth noting that with the right rear corner up on a rock (swb) the bolt flanges on 1350s can contact the gas tank skid if you have one (a little trimming of the skid is in order), the loud bang bang bang is a sure tell tale.
hey dan, are you using a replacement flange, factory flange or a replacement yoke?
Old 09-05-2008, 08:36 AM
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yeah, i have seen this as well with replacement flanges. if you use a replacement yoke, you will not have this problem.
Old 09-05-2008, 04:57 PM
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Thanks! I really appreciate all the info. I went ahead an ordered both driveshafts from the drive shaft superstore. In about a couple of weeks I'm going to have a huge project in my hands when I install the TF 3" lift kit, superlift rockrunner control arms(all 8,front and rear), TF front adj track bar, front and rear driveshafts, Procomp alloy wheels 17X9 7189 model and Cooper STT 35" tires Hopefully I can get this done with a friend of mine in a weekend. I'll post pics of the process of my JK Rubicon's transformation

Once again thank you to all you guys
Old 09-05-2008, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by putnam dan
It is worth noting that with the right rear corner up on a rock (swb) the bolt flanges on 1350s can contact the gas tank skid if you have one (a little trimming of the skid is in order), the loud bang bang bang is a sure tell tale.
Originally Posted by putnam dan
A picture tells a thousand words



Can you see where the contact is occuring
Originally Posted by wayoflife
yeah, i have seen this as well with replacement flanges. if you use a replacement yoke, you will not have this problem.
Another question just occured to me. What should I do in this case?
Old 09-06-2008, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jayrav
Another question just occured to me. What should I do in this case?
if you ordered your 1350 shaft with the flange as opposed to the yoke, you will get some contact with the gas tank skid but it's not that big of a deal. you will mostly get it when flexing on the trail and that's it. when i was running this setup, it just wore a dent in the skid and when it finally got deep enough, i wasn't getting any more contact.
Old 09-06-2008, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
if you ordered your 1350 shaft with the flange as opposed to the yoke, you will get some contact with the gas tank skid but it's not that big of a deal. you will mostly get it when flexing on the trail and that's it. when i was running this setup, it just wore a dent in the skid and when it finally got deep enough, i wasn't getting any more contact.
THANKS!!! YOU ROCK
Old 09-06-2008, 10:24 AM
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so... is changing out this yoke such a PITA as it sounds?
are you guys doing it yourself or having it done at a shop?

something about my ass and 200lbs of tork just sounds like trouble.

and this part may sound really stupid, but when i first started research on "these" drive shafts, the flanges and replacing this CV crap... i could have sworn i read something about having to cut an inch or so off of the out put shaft on the TC..??? WTF...

i think i have already lost what i had left of my mind
Old 09-06-2008, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RedrockX
so... is changing out this yoke such a PITA as it sounds?
are you guys doing it yourself or having it done at a shop?

something about my ass and 200lbs of tork just sounds like trouble.


and this part may sound really stupid, but when i first started research on "these" drive shafts, the flanges and replacing this CV crap... i could have sworn i read something about having to cut an inch or so off of the out put shaft on the TC..??? WTF...

i think i have already lost what i had left of my mind
I'm going to do it myself with a friend who has had experience with this same kind of install. Wish me luck Oh by the way, I'll be using a impact wrench. A impact wrench will make your ass feel good when it comes to 200lbs of torque.
Old 09-06-2008, 10:43 AM
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getting the pinion nut off is a PITA if you don't have an impact wrench. however, the hardest part of the job is re-installing the pinion nut WITHOUT crushing the crush sleeve more or installing it too loose. if you have a high end inch lbs. torque wrench that can measure to the inch, there is a way to do this right but a torque wrench like this can cost $200-$300. having said that, you can try marking the pinion nut and be mindful of it coming off. when reinstalling it, use red lock tite and try to make sure to reinstall the nut to where it was before or just a hair more.


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