Ncb

I didn't like the brackets so I moved the rear links up front and purchased Teraflex links for the rear.

dpowell5523

The brackets and the links do two different things. The links center your sway bar so its parallel to ground. The brackets correct the geometry of the control arms to allow the suspension to absorb impacts correctly.

Sazerac_TX

Are you maybe referring to adjustable LCAs (lower control arms) vs the AEV brackets? The AEV brackets fix geometry issues caused due to incorrect caster angle after a lift. Adjustable control arms fix the same issue but cost $100-150 more than the brackets which are designed for this specific lift.

The only downside of the brackets with this lift is they hang down slightly at the Jeep's frame end of the LCA in order to adjust caster (see pic). IMO this isn't a functional issue--cosmetic only and not a big deal to me (barely noticeable). Adjustable Lcas simply are longer thus no need to hang down to adjust the angle.

desertbuzz

The trackbar in itself is NOT the problem (it's plenty tough and handles anything thrown at it) ... The problem is with the bolts.
Just replace those bolts with available kits like NORTHRIDGE .... and you'll be set.

IMHO : Your installer wants you to spend more money ....

I just don't like unjustified expenses and I do not like to be taken for a ride.

Chicofof

I'm referring to the front sway bar link brackets that come with the kit, the geometry brackets are separate....thanx for the good info!

TCJK11

I did away with my sway bar extension brackets and just purchased some teraflex links. Cheap and they are exactly the same length as the bracket and smaller link. To be honest, I wouldn't have done this if I hadn't put an armor kit on the front axle. The only reason I wouldn't have changed them is because its money better spent elsewhere, but the weld on kit required the longer links, so I went with the cheapest solution.

DJ1

I've got the AEV 2.5" XT setup......10k miles and no problems. Did the install myself in the garage. The front passenger strut is a b**ch. Take a dremel to the plastic hanging over the strut tower (basically the plastic directly underneath the fuse box) and you will save yourself a lot of time.

Haven't gotten around to installing the geometry correction brackets yet but will probably upgrade to the northridge bolt kit sometime down the road and will do it then.

dpowell5523

Have fun with the exhaust pipe. I had a 3 foot pry at and had to enlist my wife to put the bolt in while I pulled on the exhaust. If it hadn't been getting dark on a Sunday, I would have disconnected the exhaust. Just had my alignment checked and now my caster is perfect according to NTB.

DallasJKU

Will I need exhaust spacers for my '13 with the AEV 2.5"?

Idaho

Nope. No exhaust mods needed and I didn't have to pry anything. Slight manufacturing differences are the reason.

Dpowell is right... The passenger side shock sucks big to do. I was able to do it without any disassembly or cutting. I cut an Allen wrench short and fingered it for a half hour not fun but possible.

I pitched the front brake line extensions. Jacked it way up and didn't feel they would have benefited anything. Everything in the AEV I used. I liked the geometry correction kit.

On the rear brake lines I cut some fuel line and covered anything that looked like it could possibly rub. Tywrapped to hold them in place.

I replaced the rear differential breather tube with fuel line and gave it some extra slack. I thought it was too tight.

Key is just following the instructions... Mostly.

Good luck!