xtofa

Hey Brothers & Sisters,

I'm an intermediate-level Jeeper and modder... I can do the easy things like bumpers, intakes, etc., however for the big jobs like a lift kit (with no garage), I had to go to 4 Wheel Parts a few weeks ago. So here I am now with my 2010 JKU Rubi with a snazzy Rancho 4" long arm, 5.13:1 gears, RE driveshafts, new wheels, and 35s.

I ended up with a bad death wobble--so I'm getting a set of Dynatrac ball joints. The parts I need advice on are the track bar, drag link, and tie rod. Essentially I need a parts list for replacement. I want to eliminate the DW, and replace the worn or soon-to-be-worn components. (And I'd rather not be taken for a ride by 4WP--they've been pretty decent do far.)

Correct me if I'm wrong... I need

1 drag link
2 drag link ends
1 track bar
2 track bar ends
1 tie rod
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends

Is that about right? I understand I can re-use the stock drag link, track bar, and tie rod and install better ends... What say you, hive mind? I'll spend some bucks, just want to price things out and know what I should be looking at.

Thanks!

Topher

c17loadmaster

There is a much simpler and cheaper routemto fix your steering.

Just get yourself a drag link flip kit. They can be had for less than 300 bucksmfrom many vendors. I personally recommend EVO's kit.

http://evomfg.com/store/proddetail.p...O-DRAGLINKFLIP

Not onlymdoes EVO make some awesome stuff, but this kit is completley bolt on, so you can do it yourself with no garage. There is two sections of the drag link, the drag link itself which attaches to the steering knuckle, and the pitman arm end that is basically a tie rod end. You will need. 7/8 inch drill bit to drill the top of your passenger side steering knuckle. This is amsimple yet very effective (and in my opinion neccessary) kit. Your steering is in its best geometrical position when your drag link is parallel to the track bar. Since you already have. 4 inch long arm kit you should already have an adjustable track bar.

I wouldnt replace your tie rod or tie rod ends unless you have damaged them. There really isnt any play in your tie rod unless you damage it, so replacing it early is just burning money.

With the flip kit you cannot re use your stock drag link because the bend in the arm at the steering knuckle would be facing the wrong direction if you flipped it over. You do however keep your drag link end on the stock pitman arm.

Your DW imo was probably causedmby your trackbar bushing on the axle. When the lift was installed if they didnt torque the trackbar bolts to 125lbs WITH all 4 tires on the ground, it probably came loose. Another consideration that only costs 40 dollars but will save your trackbar and control arms is the Grade 8 bolt kit from northridge4x4. That will save you major headache in the future. If your long arm kit already came with control arm bolts, you will only need 4 grade 8 shoulder bolts 4 ea size 9/16x3 inch. They also need to be 18 thread (fine thread) plus get 4 stover locking nuts for them. These are for the 4 bolts that hold the front AND rear trackbars. Torque to 125lbs.

Hope this helps, and wish you the best. PM me if you have more questions.

By the way. Did you have an alignment done? If not you need to havenyour caster checked.

xtofa

They did do the alignment, and I asked for +6 caster as recommended in the sticky in this forum, but they didn't recommend that at 4WP.

Thanks for the tip on the EVO kit--the site doesn't have an add to cart button for the kit, so perhaps it's out of stock. I sent an email to them asking how I might otherwise get my hands on one... Hope to hear soon. Driving me NUTS.

What do you think about the ball joints? I have 52K miles on my Jeep using the stock ones.

c17loadmaster

Your stock ball joints are almost certainly shot. They should have told you when you had the alignment. Most people only get between 10k-20k out of them. I replaced mine last week. Mine were shot.

Evo will get back to you on what vendors sell their products and you may be able to go direct with them. They are super good guys.

nmwranglerx

IMHO you shouldn't have death wobble after paying someone to install a lift. I would take it back and have them fix it. Like the other post says, it could be a loose bolt somewhere that needs to be re-torqued. I'm sure you paid a good amount to have the lift installed, they should do it right. BTW, I have an 07 and still have original ball joints at 52000 miles. I also have the flipped drag link from Offroad Evolution, which I highly recommend. It will definitely help with vehicle handling. I'm still running stock track bar and tie rod and have zero issues. I wouldn't rush out and buy a bunch of stuff you may or may not need.

dahreno

I you did not have d. wobble before the lift , and you do now , bring it back to 4 w.p.s Go to the thousand oaks store and see John. After thats fixed go to off road evolution in orange county and see Mel . He knows JKs , and has great stuff , the best

xtofa

That's who I'm dealing with (John in TO)... he is eating some of the costs, but not much. As for Off-Road Evolution, that's the next stop (the EVO drag link flip kit).

mmflytie

Guys,
All fantastic comments and options. Really appreciate it . I think I'm on the right track. Hit my usual bump in the road yesterday at 40mph and just a slight shutter in steering wheel and that was it!!! I am going to check into truly flipping the drag link, but for now, I feel much safer on the road and that monster Track bar from teraflex is a " monster"!! I did switch out to 9/16 shouldered fine thread bolts too..

Thanks
Again