Edmond

OK, heres the deal. This is my first JK but my 7th Jeep so I am still learning all about the JK.. I am going to be putting on a lift from either Full Traction or Teraflex toward the end of the year, but I want to get some skid plates on the Jeep so I can take it out and not worry too much much.. My Jeep is a JKU with auto trans.
My questions.
1. What skid plates can I get that wont interfere or need to be replaced when I put on the lift?
2. What, if any company(s) make them in aluminum... (just looking for options..dont want to start a debate).

skids I am looking at.
Muffler skid
gas tank skid,
evap skid? (I already have the stock one does it really need to be replaced)?
oil
trans
etc...
thank you for your help.

Eddie

gunbo75

Just get the evap canister skid plate. The full tank skid is good that came with your jeep. Rock sliders are good to have also. Pick your trail line and have a spotter if you can and have fun.i ran my 4 door jku stock for a while before i did lift and tires.

JE8154

You already have gas tank and evap skids on a 2012. I got the Evo protek skids for my oil pan transmission and exhaust crossover. I'm not sure who makes aluminum ones but. These are good as long as you change your front drive shaft when you lift it instead of making changes to the exhaust.

FlameRedJK

Not looking to start this debate once again but, River Raider Off Road sells their skids in aluminum if that's what you are looking for.

Edmond

Thanks for the info...so just to clarify:
The stock gas tank skid is OK?
Is the stock Evap skid OK or should I get a better one?
If I get a system such as the EVO that protects the oil pan,trans, and exhaust cross over I will be all set?

FYI the driveshafts will be changed when I do the lift and axles
I might change the exhaust to the AFE so the muffler tucks up higher in the rear...anything I need to be concerned with..


Once again thanks for your help..

JacksonH

The stock skids will hold up good no need to replace.

hypeiv

some people have said the stock evap skid plate in the 2012 will tear the rear driveshaft boot if you get a lift... so you might need to get a new one or move it over.

edit: I see you say you plan on changing the driveshafts... I bet if you replace to the rear driveshaft you can probably keep the OEM skid on the EVAP. My build for my 2012 I am replacing the front DS but leaving the rear OEM so I went with the poison spyder evap skid and OEM rear DS

BoneShkr

On the note of changing the muffler to an AFE Hi-Tuck unit;

If You are really after the ultimate in angle departure, You might
look into removing the muffler completely from it's current location
and putting an in-line muffler on before it reaches the axle bend.

On the Stock Evap Skid;

It is good enough, but if You feel better moving it, (from harms way)
there is a fella out here who has designed a bracket that will allow
you to move the evap can to above the rear axle.
I do not recall the site where i saw this bracket, but I'm sure someone
out here can direct you to it better than I.

On the Stock Skid for the Gas Tank;

It is plenty good enough. The area I have found to be a hazard is just
in front of the front cross member, behind the front wheels.
I don't believe anyone has come up with a skid plate for this area, but
if they were to look at it that would see it's a tough place to mount a
plate. ( I had a stump. I drove over it on the first pass, but on the
second I missed it by inches. It stopped me cold when the cross member
slammed into it. After closer inspection, I found I tweeked the mount a
hair.... no real damage, just my pride.)
It would have been avoided had there been a Skid/Slide plate there.
Just behind the wheel.....Or if I had been a better driver

Just my

JE8154

If you're talking about doing the afe Y pipe I have seen on here people talking about how it doesn't work with the evo exhaust cross over skid.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...nglers-198955/

gunbo75

The 2012 comes a skid plate canister.