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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
I'm kinda curious how and under what circumstances the previous link broke. What part of the link gave out? I know that pin in the JKS quick discos doesn't look that big, but I have a hard time imagining what kind of conditions would cause it to fail, especially since you'll be totally disconnecting when doing any extreme wheeling.
I have the JKS quick disconnects and I'm looking to completely disassemble them, grease them and rattle can them. They have been on the JK for 7 years and are pretty rusty.
My question is how do you install them? I'm guessing level surface and then just adjust the height? Do you set them slightly less? More? Or as perfect to slip on and off as possible? Thanks in advance. Don't want to hijack the thread.
My question is how do you install them? I'm guessing level surface and then just adjust the height? Do you set them slightly less? More? Or as perfect to slip on and off as possible? Thanks in advance. Don't want to hijack the thread.
Mine are different lengths now, but when they were the same length I'd set one where I wanted it, then match the 2nd one to the exact same length, comparing em on the workbench. They should slip on pretty easy assuming the jeep is on level ground. Needing different lengths with current set up, I set one, then just set the 2nd one so it slid on perfectly smooth while on level ground (as you described).
I'm kinda curious how and under what circumstances the previous link broke. What part of the link gave out? I know that pin in the JKS quick discos doesn't look that big, but I have a hard time imagining what kind of conditions would cause it to fail, especially since you'll be totally disconnecting when doing any extreme wheeling.
The link itself didnt break. I was on the Daniel trail at Uwharrie and towards the bottom of it is a 3 foot ledge. I had my sway bar disconnected electronically and when my front driver side tire dropped of the ledge and hit the ground, it pushed my tires up into the wheel well. I guess the angle was perfect to where the top bolt of the link got caught on the top coil bucket and broke it off. I checked my passenger coil bucket and see signs that the top bolt for the link has been rubbing there as well. So I am going to make some modifications to the bucket so there is more room for the sway bar and linkage around that area. But I always use a broke part as a reason to make upgrades.
Top of the link is where the bolt caught on the coil bucket and broke off
Ah yes, I can see the issue. LOL. I guess we don't see this more often as most running something with that height lift are already using aftermarket links which don't have that same bolt/joint as the factory link....so they have a bit more clearance as you can run the bolt the other direction (from inside out)
Ah yes, I can see the issue. LOL. I guess we don't see this more often as most running something with that height lift are already using aftermarket links which don't have that same bolt/joint as the factory link....so they have a bit more clearance as you can run the bolt the other direction (from inside out)
Thats what I get for going with the Mopar lift. I guess they stuck with the design of the OE links which was my downfall. Only good thing about the Mopar lift are the Fox shocks, I already replaced all the control arms with Metalcloak. I should have just gone with the Metalcloak lift to begin with but hindsight is 20/20. No worries though, JKS links came in the mail today, about to get this sorted.
Finally, after several hours the JKS quick discos are installed. For anyone that plans on installing these, here is some advice.
1. When taking off the old links, undo the bottom bolts first, and then undo the top bolts. I did not do this. Once the tops are undone, they flop around something fierce which make it had to get the right angle on the bottom bolt.
2. It will make a world of difference if you can put your jeep on a lift, or at least a jack and remove your tires. I again did not do this. It is a pain in the ass trying to get the right angle when you are either on your back or trying to wedge yourself inbetween your fenders and 38 tires.
3. I dont know if the holes in the Rubicon swaybar are different than non-Rubicon, but the top bolts of the JKS discos do not go willingly into the hole in the swaybar. I spent at least an hour trying to get the bolts in. I put a small screw driver in the bolt where the pin goes and had to screw them through the swaybar hole, again it might have been easier if the tire was off so I could put more pressure on the bolt as I was turning it.
4. If you have a steering stabilizer that shares a bolt with the passenger side lower link, make sure it is aligned perfectly
. Once I took the bolt out from the old link, my steering stabalizer mounting bracket slid about a centimeter, so I had to find a way to put enough pressure on it to get the holes to line back up when putting in the lower JKS bolt.
5. I have a 4.5 lift, but after the weight of my bumpers, winch, steel fenders, bellypan, etc., I probably have about 3.5. I do not know for sure but it seems that one full rotation of the JKS link is about 1/10 of an inch. I had to turn them 35 times to get them long enough to reach the top bolt to bottom bolt, putting my swaybar at about a 4 degree upward angle.
They were a pain to install but a quick drive around the block and everything feels nice. Once I got back I took them off and it was super easy, pull the 4 locking pins out and the links come off with ease. They are so easy to take off that I doubt I will even use the electronic disconnect again. I can take them off in about the time it takes to air down a tire.
It started raining as I finished up so my project for tomorrow morning is going to be making a way to keep my swaybar up when they are disconnected. That should be easy enough, and then it is off to Uwharrie tomorrow night!
On those links- put some good silicone grease (really light coat) on the pins. After wheeling all day you can quick wipe the posts and the links will slide on. Without the grease.....it can be difficult.
Sidenote on URE- it seems they've put a lock on the free air, suddenly OBA was a good choice.
Just some info., If you don't want to completely remove the JKS dissconnects and don't want to zip tie the sway bar up you can do what I did. I ordered the Teraflex JK disconnect brackets. All you do is remove your front body mount bolts and slide the brackets over the studs then replace the bolt. It takes all of 10 minutes to do both sides. You can then disconnect the bottom pin and swing the disconnects up to slide it on the bracket shaft, then reinsert the pin. The Teraflex brackets work fine with the JKS disconnects.
04-04-2018, 04:48 AM
