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Need input on new sway bar links

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Old 04-02-2018, 02:09 PM
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Default Need input on new sway bar links

Yesterday while riding at Uwharrie, I broke on of my sway bar links. I have the Mopar 4.5” lift. I have a lot of Metalcloak products on my jeep and have been very happy with them. Metalcloak offers 12.5” links for their 3.5” lift, and 14.5” links for their 5.5” lift, so I am right in the middle. I do have a rubicon so I don’t need quick disconnects. Would the 12.5” or the 14.5” be better for my setup? Also, does anyone know of a better company for the links that would fit my lift better?
Old 04-02-2018, 02:44 PM
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Your best bet would be to measure and see what is going to be the best length for your jeep. With the Rubicon you'll want to make sure that your links put your sway bar above the 'level' mark so you don't invert the links while on the trail.


I'm packing to be down there tomorrow with my new Metalcloak 2.5"
Old 04-02-2018, 03:29 PM
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I measured the old ones that came with the Mopar lift and they are about 10.5”. I really want to stick with Metalcloak (I wish I had gone with their lift instead of Mopar but it’s too late for that). Do you think the 12.25” ones from MC will work. Right now my sway bar sits level when using the Mopar links.
Old 04-02-2018, 06:05 PM
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Lots of people like the JKS adjustable/removable swaybar links, they can be adjusted from 2.5" to 6" lifts.
Old 04-02-2018, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jku007fl
Lots of people like the JKS adjustable/removable swaybar links, they can be adjusted from 2.5" to 6" lifts.
The JKS adjustable ones look like they will do the trick. Now this brings up the next question. They make the quick disconnect version and also a version for Rubicons that don’t have the quick disconnect function. In my Rubi I always use the electronic disconnect because I didn’t want to take the time to unbolt the links. I am under the impression that removing the links will allow for more articulation than electronically disconnecting the sway bar. Should I get the quick disconnect option for when I plan on doing serious rock crawling, and then really on the electronic disconnect when I am playing around on easier trails? Or just get the ones that don’t disconnect quickly and continue to rely on the electronic function? I guess the real question is does the quick disconnect feature add a weak point if I decide to leave my links connected and use the electronic disconnect of the rubicon? Hopefully that makes sense...
Old 04-02-2018, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Wbradshaw6


The JKS adjustable ones look like they will do the trick. Now this brings up the next question. They make the quick disconnect version and also a version for Rubicons that don’t have the quick disconnect function. In my Rubi I always use the electronic disconnect because I didn’t want to take the time to unbolt the links. I am under the impression that removing the links will allow for more articulation than electronically disconnecting the sway bar. Should I get the quick disconnect option for when I plan on doing serious rock crawling, and then really on the electronic disconnect when I am playing around on easier trails? Or just get the ones that don’t disconnect quickly and continue to rely on the electronic function? I guess the real question is does the quick disconnect feature add a weak point if I decide to leave my links connected and use the electronic disconnect of the rubicon? Hopefully that makes sense...
When you electronically disco the sway bar on the Rubi, you essentially split the sway bar in half. I don't think you're limiting yourself or losing any articulation. Honestly if I were you, I'd sell the Rubi sway bar and pick up a standard sport/sahara sway bar and some quick discos. The motors on those Rubi sway bars are prone to failure, and it's not a matter of if, but rather when. Lucky for you...people like to pay a pretty penny for them. You'll probably have some extra bills in your pocket at the end of the day, and who doesn't like that .

Rock Krawler makes some adjustable sway bar links similar to the JKS. They're cheaper too. Definitely go with adjustable links instead of fixed length, you'll be able to fine tune everything.
Old 04-02-2018, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BoraBora
When you electronically disco the sway bar on the Rubi, you essentially split the sway bar in half. I don't think you're limiting yourself or losing any articulation. Honestly if I were you, I'd sell the Rubi sway bar and pick up a standard sport/sahara sway bar and some quick discos. The motors on those Rubi sway bars are prone to failure, and it's not a matter of if, but rather when. Lucky for you...people like to pay a pretty penny for them. You'll probably have some extra bills in your pocket at the end of the day, and who doesn't like that .

Rock Krawler makes some adjustable sway bar links similar to the JKS. They're cheaper too. Definitely go with adjustable links instead of fixed length, you'll be able to fine tune everything.
As much as it would be nice to have some extra money in my pocket, I am a bit OC about my Jeep, making sure that every little button and switch works. It would drive me crazy to have the sway bar button on my dash and know that it didn’t do anything. Plus I got the Mopar lifetime warranty, so if it breaks it gets fixed, only costs me $100 for my deductible. And I know just mentioning that service contract is going to open a can of worms, so let me end it with I am a F&I Director at a Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram dealership, I will get the claim covered. My main question now is does the quick disconnect feature of any sway bar link a weak point in its design compared to ones that don’t have the quick disconnect. For instance, if I go wheeling and don’t disconnect the sway bar links, will I need to worry about the quick disconnect pin breaking easier than the tradition nut and bolt design of a regular link.
Old 04-03-2018, 03:15 AM
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On the links discussion- my friend has a RK 3.5" that we put on in the garage and the stock rubi sway bar (disconnected) with RK links didn't allow as much travel as completely removing the links. RK does sell an affordable link but they're shit. They sent him out some subpar Chinese junk and didn't mention that there was a change in manufacturer until after he twisted their link. In comparison, I've run the JKS links for 7 years now and haven't had any issues. They're greaseable which I hate to do but I see the function behind it. They're not going to be a weak link in your system, I think you'd see the tabs fail before something on the link fails. They move in a vertical plane so there really isn't a load per se put on the quick connect pins. My only recommendation with them is to weld a nut to the frame so when you swing the bar up (after disconnecting) that you've got a place for the bar to rest. No more zip ties or bungee cords holding the bar.
Old 04-03-2018, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
On the links discussion- my friend has a RK 3.5" that we put on in the garage and the stock rubi sway bar (disconnected) with RK links didn't allow as much travel as completely removing the links.
I agree with this. Most people get enough articulation with the rubi sway bar, but you can squeeze a bit more out of it if you completely disconnect. In your situation where you're gonna be forced to replace a link, your earlier thought makes the most sense.......when you're just playing around and need to be disconnected for a quick picture op or something, use the rubi sway bar.....if you're out doing some serious wheelin, totally disconnect to take advantage of max articulation. I've had the JKS quicker disconnects for 5 years now.....They work perfect for me. Takes all of 30 seconds to pull em off, and about the same going on. I do it while my tires are airing up/down, so really no additional time at all.

Not to mention......totally disconnecting at the links probably helps extend the life of that rubi sway bar....although you have a warranty anyhow so you probably don't care too much bout that aspect.....but for others who don't......it's a thought.
Old 04-03-2018, 11:59 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys. I think the JKS quick disconnects are going to be the way to go. I do think the pin would fail before the nut and bolt design of the non-quick disconnects if I decide to leave the links connected. But if it is only the pin that fails, I can order some back up pins to keep on hand. Thanks again!


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