Need ideas for a quick-release solution for my Jeep's rack
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JK Super Freak
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Need ideas for a quick-release solution for my Jeep's rack
My Jeep has the Congo Cage rack and removing those two large bolts in the front so I can tilt the rack backwards and open/close the soft top is a PITA.
I am looking into some kind of quick-release system that lets me free-up the front quickly and without tools.
My initial thought was replacing the bolts by guide pins and welding latches with safety locks like these.
Medium Duty Adjustable Toggle Latches | Protex Latches
The guide pins will prevent the columns to move around and the latches lock them in place.
However, still not quite happy with this solution.
Any ideas of some high-strength structural quick-release products I can use?
Thanks in advance!
I am looking into some kind of quick-release system that lets me free-up the front quickly and without tools.
My initial thought was replacing the bolts by guide pins and welding latches with safety locks like these.
Medium Duty Adjustable Toggle Latches | Protex Latches
The guide pins will prevent the columns to move around and the latches lock them in place.
However, still not quite happy with this solution.
Any ideas of some high-strength structural quick-release products I can use?
Thanks in advance!
#2
JK Freak
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I know this is not what the manufacturer would approve but...
What if you used a clevis locking pin (similar to found on discos). Instead of unbolting the windshield front mounting bracket from the front legs, what if you separate the front legs (04) from the front U-bar (03). You would need to use silicon grease rather than silicon sealant in the joint to stop corrosion while making it easy to disassemble/assemble.
Here is a clevis that might be the right size. I think I would prefer stainless steel, though.
Seachoice Locking Pin, 5/16 - 572664, Trailer Accessories at Sportsman's Guide
What if you used a clevis locking pin (similar to found on discos). Instead of unbolting the windshield front mounting bracket from the front legs, what if you separate the front legs (04) from the front U-bar (03). You would need to use silicon grease rather than silicon sealant in the joint to stop corrosion while making it easy to disassemble/assemble.
Here is a clevis that might be the right size. I think I would prefer stainless steel, though.
Seachoice Locking Pin, 5/16 - 572664, Trailer Accessories at Sportsman's Guide
#3
JK Super Freak
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I know this is not what the manufacturer would approve but...
What if you used a clevis locking pin (similar to found on discos). Instead of unbolting the windshield front mounting bracket from the front legs, what if you separate the front legs (04) from the front U-bar (03). You would need to use silicon grease rather than silicon sealant in the joint to stop corrosion while making it easy to disassemble/assemble.
Here is a clevis that might be the right size. I think I would prefer stainless steel, though.
Seachoice Locking Pin, 5/16 - 572664, Trailer Accessories at Sportsman's Guide
What if you used a clevis locking pin (similar to found on discos). Instead of unbolting the windshield front mounting bracket from the front legs, what if you separate the front legs (04) from the front U-bar (03). You would need to use silicon grease rather than silicon sealant in the joint to stop corrosion while making it easy to disassemble/assemble.
Here is a clevis that might be the right size. I think I would prefer stainless steel, though.
Seachoice Locking Pin, 5/16 - 572664, Trailer Accessories at Sportsman's Guide
Thanks! Unfortunately that would not work. The rack's frame does not "sit" perfectly, so trying to insert the top part of the windshield frame into the legs would probably take longer than using the bolts. My idea of using guide pins screwed on the original bolts' locations is also to help pushing things into place when lowering the rack again. However, I thought of using smaller clevis pins, similar to those you posted, on the guiding pins. In case the latches fail the guiding pins and the clevis pins would still keep things in place.
I have been looking around trying to find some kind of tubular frame quick-disconnects or a racing cars' type accessory but so far nothing really usable. Many things are for static structures and they would not fare very well in a vehicle.
This one for steering wheel hubs looks great and could be easily adapted. However, not sure about the mechanical strength. Would need one all-steel with two locking pins.
http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C52-210/
Last edited by Sahara_Maverick; 06-08-2014 at 08:13 PM.