I have a 2013 jk 2 door manual transmission. I am wanting to put on 35s and the HD lift with no intensions of disconnecting sway bars. Honestly i just want a bad ass looking jeep thats capable but still a DD.

My question is will i be able to get the OME HD lift and 35s without having to get driveshafts if i dont disconnect or should i just suck it up and get the light load coils or a smaller lift and go with 33s.

I really just want a lift i can run 35s with thats not cheap RC crap that i can sling a little mud but still be able to cruise down the highway and not feel like im fighting a sail boat in a tornado.

Can i get the OME HD and 35s now and wait till later to get driveshafts if i wonna disconnect???

 

Unless you have heavy bumpers, the HD coils won't ride very well. I went that route a while back and didn't like it at all. You will definitively need front lower control arms of relo brackets to get caster back.

I run 37s on 2.5" of lift. Lift and tire size aren't really correlated. Use proper amount of bump stop and a 2" lift.

Better yet, save the money and get the Teraflex budget boost. You get the right amount of lift and ride is essentially the same.

 

I agree with this. If you're not looking for flex, a BB is an easy, inexpensive way to get to 35s while keeping a mostly stock ride. You may still want those front lower control arms, though, to fix caster changed by the lift (better steering feel).

 

I have the OME HD lift on my 11' 2 Dr auto, and I like it. When I flexed it out after lift it did rub the ds on.the trans and that was with stock tires. It might not rub at all with manual trans? Go for it, you can put taller bump stops and you will want lower adjustable control arms and adjustable track bars to re center axle.

 

The problem is I have a 2200 budget to get lift, wheels, and tires... I don't want a budget boost cuz the stock coils and shocks suck and I don't want to have to deal with control arms and driveshafts cuz I don't have the pockets for that...

Sounds like I'm gonna be stuck with a teraflex coil leveling kit and 33s :/

 

You can run stock wheels with 1-1/2" wheel spacers and save there, that's what I did for about a year. I think you will regret not doing it right the first time.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong... On a 2012 and up 2 door with a 2.5 inch lift or bigger you need front driveshaft, front lower control arms and front trackbar?

Would I just be better off to get the RK 2.5 flex system from northridge that has a track bar and control arms and save for a driveshaft?

 

I have an auto and I've been running my 2.5" lift which netted about 3.25" with the stock DS for almost a year now on my 2 door. Will they last as long as they would without the lift? No. But I have yet to tear the boot and have done some mild wheeling. I did however, on the advice of Invest2m4, have a muffler shop move the y-pipe crossover back about 1.5" to make it harder for the DS to hit the exhaust. I do have adjustable control arms and track bars. Not sure how much of a difference a manual makes as far as contact.

I'm not going to replace mine until I have to. So far so good.

 

You don't "need" the trackbar and control arms. With a 2.5" lift--spring or BB--your caster will cause the steering to feel light. Some describe it as like driving on ice, though that is an exaggeration. It is safe to drive until you have money later to fix--or forever if you want. Front lower control arms and geometry correction brackets fix that. So do camber bolts, though they are problematic on vehicles driven off road because they can rattle loose.

The axles will also shift slightly outward in opposite directions. Many lifts come with a bracket to fix the rear. That means the front is still slightly off--perhaps a quarter to half inch. Again, you can fix whenever, or just ignore it.

As for driveshafts, on the Pentastar with 2.5" lift I have several friends running them with stock shafts on four doors. They off road, too, but more overlanding than rock crawling. You can get the TF exhaust pipe relocation kit to give a bit more clearance on the front. And just run until you have a problem, but at 2.5" you should be okay. However, that's actual lift. Some lifts give lots more to compensate for heavy mods. I'd avoid a "2.5" lift" that people say netted them "over three inches."

There is a sticky at the top of this forum by Dirtman called "My thoughts on lifts". Lots of good info in there.

 

I can't comment on the EMU springs, what I can tell you is my 2.5" coil lift netted me just over 3" on my 2012 2dr before I added bumpers, skids, etc; The weight of adds on will brought it back down a little, maybe 1/2" at most. It took just shy of 3 years, and just over 50,000 miles to loose the boot on my from DS. So, I would say that you could get away with it for a bit, but not as a permanent set up. With the jeep on level ground I could see that the top of the DS boot was pulled fairly tight, so I knew it would go at some point and kept an eye on it. My experience may be different than yours though, as I am off road & disco'd every chance I get. Also a company called Crown makes a complete CV joint for these DS's that runs about $100. Looks like an easy install, I just got one but haven't done it yet. What's funny is my rears are still good and the angle on the joints is way worse than the front. Go figure.... Hope this helps.