SFBayArea

Yes, relays are in the system. I am thinking of connecting one light at a time via small jumper cable directly to the battery to see if it works, which I am most positive that it is.
Such a simple wiring is giving me so much trouble. IT ALL WORKED when I connected it on the hood (with relays and all. The only difference is when I ran it into the cabin I cut the switch connectors to easily bring wires into the cabin. Nothing else changed.

jchappies

I bet your getting some interference bleed from the lights. Try re-routing all your wires or shield your wire.

SFBayArea

Would I blow the fuse if I cross wires on the switch? Cause I am sure I did cross wires on the switch trying different configuration to make it work.

jchappies

you could blow a fuse if you have a switch with an LED in it, that would mean you would have had to provide a ground for the switch and if you connected something wrong it will blow a fuse.

36Fan

So you have a test light but don't know how it can help you? It's to check where you have power and where you don't.

Rebar-7

Ok take one set of lights make sure wires are properly grounded and make sure any butt splices that you used to lengthen wires are crimped tight. Test for power ,with test light ,you mentioned a clicking sound , do you have at least 30 amp relays ? Check relays ! Also Rigids power in and power out are backwards ( there instr are wrong ) reverse the connectors on switch.

SFBayArea

Ok, I found the problem. As usual it is simple thing that I overlooked - blown fuse on both E bar and D2s. I went on doing all of the hard troubleshooting instead of checking fuses (I just could not think that both fuses on separate lines gone at the same time).

Rebar-7

Yep.........

DallasJKU

Unlikely, but I know I blew a fuse on my D2's during install. I just keep a pack of fuse in my Jeep just in case.