need help with axles and big tires
02-19-2014, 12:17 PM
#11
JK Junkie
Do some research and read some threads and stickies. This has been asked many times. The answer is usually just because you can doesn't mean you should. You can do it but just know you will likely have parts failing or atleast wearing out at an exceptional rate. If you just want a mall crawler you may be okay but even as a mall crawler there will be mods needed just to make the vehicle drivable and above all safe.
Not to mention, pissing off your trail buddies every time you hit a trail and need to be towed out.
02-19-2014, 12:24 PM
#12
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40's on a dana 30?? I will give the dana 30 credit I ran 35's on mine with sleeves and gussets with no issues. I would never imagine 40's especially if I even so much looked at a rock.. I just went to pro rock 60 rear and pro rock 44 front and 37's. Thats about all I am willing ti push on tire size with this setup. If I were you id take a step back and really look at what you need and how big your pocket book is. Do some research. See what you are willing to spend and fix when it breaks.
02-19-2014, 12:57 PM
#13
JK Junkie
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02-19-2014, 01:04 PM
#14
JK Jedi
02-19-2014, 01:22 PM
#15
Forum Tech Advisor
Okay. If it is driven on the street and on dirt roads, and if the axles are never locked:
Here is what a 4.5" lift with flat flares and 40s looks like (done temporarily for fun, and never driven offroad):
- 3" or less wheel backspacing. So, 4.5" backspaced wheels combined with 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers
- 4" front and rear extended bumpstops if no body lift, or 3.25" extended bumpstops with a 1" body lift
- 4" suspension lift if no body lift, or 3" suspension lift with a 1" body lift
- flat flares, with fender well trimming.
- stubby front bumper.
- lowest gearing possible--5.13s with a Dana 30.
- don't lock either axle
- don't turn on dry pavement unless the vehicle is rolling and the tires are aired up to at least 20 psi
Here is what a 4.5" lift with flat flares and 40s looks like (done temporarily for fun, and never driven offroad):
02-19-2014, 01:42 PM
#16
JK Junkie
Wheels and tires around $5k for a set of 5 4"-6" lift+steering upgrades $5k RCV $1200 Lockers $2000 Gears and labor $1200 35 spline rear shafts $600 Truss and gussets $400 Diff covers $300 Drive shafts $700 On board air $300 Stubby bumpers $700 If you were going dynatrac front and rear 60's ready to bolt on with ARB you are going to be pushing $17k just for axles. Going with semi float currie axles you will be over $10k Sure you can do it for cheaper by building your own tons, diy hydraulic assist, and custom built long arm. But when I see "my dad has tools" I tend to think the op is not up to that task just yet.
02-19-2014, 03:18 PM
#17
JK Newbie
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I Am On A 2 Year Savings Plan For This So The Cost Doesn't Scare Me... I Just Would Like To Know How To Make It Next To Bullet Proof...Cut Labor Out I Have A Brother And A Dad That Will Be More Than Willing To Help...60 Rear 44 Front Sounds Like A Must
02-19-2014, 03:29 PM
#18
JK Jedi
most of those prices didnt include labor...so your good there. and if your swapping axles i personally wouldnt swap a 30 for a d44 to run 40s.
02-19-2014, 03:34 PM
#19
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If you are truly stuck on 40's and want a "bulletproof" setup. 60's front and rear is a must. Like I said I am on pro rocks. 44 front 60 rear and I wont go over 37's. I still expect some things to go south wheeling. Nature of the beast.
02-19-2014, 04:05 PM
#20
JK Jedi
agreed i wheel with many buggies on 40s and d60s and i see at least one big break a weekend. the wheeling we do though is a little more on the hardcore side as many of these guys run the hammers,dirt riot and other competitions though. many people are fine on there 37s and d44s and there so called hardcore offroad.