need help with axles and big tires
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I Hav 08 Sahara...I Want To Run 40"Tires An Keep My Dana 44 Rear And Dana 30 Front And Just Beef Them Up...35 SplinE Rear, Rcvs Front, Gusset Sleeve, What Will I Need For This Project...My Dad Owns A Shop So I Have tools
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Do some research and read some threads and stickies. This has been asked many times. The answer is usually just because you can doesn't mean you should. You can do it but just know you will likely have parts failing or atleast wearing out at an exceptional rate.
If you just want a mall crawler you may be okay but even as a mall crawler there will be mods needed just to make the vehicle drivable and above all safe.
If you just want a mall crawler you may be okay but even as a mall crawler there will be mods needed just to make the vehicle drivable and above all safe.
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Then, you will be faced with dropping back down to 35s or upgrading to Dana 60s.
You can buy a rear Dana 60 with a Currie or Teraflex housing, built for around $3500. If you do a Super 44 rear with 35 spline axles and an ARB, you will spend more than $2k on it--not including labor. The first time you bend an axle shaft or blow a pinion bearing, you will have spent more than just selling your current 44 and buying a 60.
With the front, to run 40s and still be able to turn sharper than a long-bed crew cab dually pickup, you will need to run 3" or less backspaced wheels. You will also need chromoly steering (tie-rod and drag link). The stock ball joints won't last, and the unit bearings will need to be replaced more frequently.
By the time you truss the front axle, upgrade your steering, do chromoly RCV or other axle shafts, regear it, lock it, and upgrade the ball joints, you will be into your front Dana 30 about $3500, not including labor. By the first time you break stuff and fix it, you may be into it close to a built Dynatrac 44 front. In the end, you will end up upgrading to a 60 anyway.
This is from experience. I broke and had to rebuild my rear Rubicon 44 enough times that I spent more than when I upgraded to a Currie rear 60. By the time I built my front 44, I was into it pretty heavy $-wise. In the end, I got tired of not being able to turn sharp. So, I bought a front Currie 60.
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id bet so, even if it comes with shafts,gears,lockers and such. you "should" still have plenty of other parts that will add up also.
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From what I always understood they should just come to you ready to bolt in. Maybe get a different tie rod and draglink but they should mock up. Thought that was the whole point of getting a dynatrac or something and why they were so expensive. I've only done some research on the matter as it's something I'll never be able to afford or do.
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Wheels and tires around $5k for a set of 5
4"-6" lift+steering upgrades $5k
RCV $1200
Lockers $2000
Gears and labor $1200
35 spline rear shafts $600
Truss and gussets $400
Diff covers $300
Drive shafts $700
On board air $300
Stubby bumpers $700
If you were going dynatrac front and rear 60's ready to bolt on with ARB you are going to be pushing $17k just for axles. Going with semi float currie axles you will be over $10k
Sure you can do it for cheaper by building your own tons, diy hydraulic assist, and custom built long arm. But when I see "my dad has tools" I tend to think the op is not up to that task just yet.
4"-6" lift+steering upgrades $5k
RCV $1200
Lockers $2000
Gears and labor $1200
35 spline rear shafts $600
Truss and gussets $400
Diff covers $300
Drive shafts $700
On board air $300
Stubby bumpers $700
If you were going dynatrac front and rear 60's ready to bolt on with ARB you are going to be pushing $17k just for axles. Going with semi float currie axles you will be over $10k
Sure you can do it for cheaper by building your own tons, diy hydraulic assist, and custom built long arm. But when I see "my dad has tools" I tend to think the op is not up to that task just yet.
#10
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A pair of Currie 60s, ready to bolt in runs about $11k-$12k, depending on your locker and hub choices--more if you run larger brakes. They are less than Dynatrac, but there is a reason that Dynatracs cost more, and it isn't just the name.
You will want a pair of 1350 driveshafts, $1,300.
You will need hydro assist, $2,100--a little less if you don't use PSC.
You will need wheels with either a 5x5.5, 6x5.5, or 8x6.5 bolt pattern, and you will probably want beadlocks, $1,600--more if you don't buy ATX Slabs.
Of course, the tires will be $500 each, so $2,500--more if you don't buy Toyo or Nitto 40x13.50R17s.
So, that puts you at a $18,500 to $19,500 before anything like bumpers (stubby in the front), tire carrier (if you run one), suspension lift, armor, on board air, upgraded brakes, etc.
You will want a pair of 1350 driveshafts, $1,300.
You will need hydro assist, $2,100--a little less if you don't use PSC.
You will need wheels with either a 5x5.5, 6x5.5, or 8x6.5 bolt pattern, and you will probably want beadlocks, $1,600--more if you don't buy ATX Slabs.
Of course, the tires will be $500 each, so $2,500--more if you don't buy Toyo or Nitto 40x13.50R17s.
So, that puts you at a $18,500 to $19,500 before anything like bumpers (stubby in the front), tire carrier (if you run one), suspension lift, armor, on board air, upgraded brakes, etc.
Last edited by planman; 02-19-2014 at 12:04 PM.