Hey all.

So I bought my JK November 2015 and immediately installed 3.25" suspension lift from rough country. Once lifted, I had my stock wheels on for a few months until putting on 35's (I also installed a $70 steering stabilizer from rough country). Once November 2016 rolled around, I switched back to the stock tires for the winter. This is when I first got the DW but I would only get it going 70 mph or faster whenever I hit a big bump or expansion joint on the highway....no big deal. March 2017 comes and I throw on the 35's. No DW whatsoever. November 2017 and I switch back to stock wheels for winter. Now im getting DW every little bump I hit going over 60 mph.

I didn't upgrade my track bar which I presume may be the culprit as it is in many DW cases.

Im only getting DW with stock wheels so I could just keep the 35's on but wanted to preserve the wheels driving on the salted roads of Cleveland Ohio hence I'm switching back to stock.

I'd appreciate any insight or recommendations!

 

Deathwobble? Or Shimmy? From the description, it doesn't sound like full-on shit the pants have to pull over and stop to get it to go away deathwobble.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...obbles-260145/

If it only happens with the stock tires, have them balanced. Twice if needed. Then go through that writeup a few times and check all the components, not just the trackbar. Removing the stabilizer may help narrow it down if it is comoponent related and not just tires.

 

Thank you for posting the link. That was very helpful and I will definitely check all of those components as soon as I can. As far as the shimmy vs full wobble: I can only get it to stop once I slow down to about 30 mph and it is definitely a violent harmonic resonance so I believe it to be Wobble however it does subside by slowing down and I do not have to come to a complete stop. I'll update you as I work toward a solution. Thanks again.

 

I don't think you have "death wobble". I think the ESC is kicking because of the bouncy RC springs. Factory shocks or oil shocks? The computer is reading the road irregularity as loss of control and your Jeeps is activating the ABS and ECS to get control. Dash lighting up like a Christmas Tree when it happens?

 

The alignment specs between the stock tires and 35s can vary a lot as well. If you had your alignment done by a 4x4 shop with the larger tires, they will sometimes put a toe out. This won't work as well with the stock tires. Depending on the driving you've done, there is a fair chance that you're dealing with wallowed out track bar bolts, worn ball joints, or even just a really low castor angle.

 

Ima bet $5 this has not been addressed. Not the root cause of the issue, but not helping any either.

I also question your description of DW......cuz REAL full on DW is the kinda thing that will indeed freak you the F out and bring you to a complete stop. It's not something that you keep driving with and have it trigger every time you hit a bump over 60 mph. Is that $70 RC steering stabilizer gas filled unit?

If you've retorqued all components to spec, inspected for worn joints and such, then by all means get those tires balanced good. I suspect though that you're still getting some effects with the 35s on.....maybe that it's just being masked more with the larger tire.

It's a good opportunity to get intimate with your steering components!

 

Hey guys sorry I haven't replied but just worked on the jeep today and here's the latest. I replaced my tie rod ends because they were pretty loose. I also put on a new RC adjustable track bar.

My current RC steering stabilizer is probably junk but I did not replace that yet. I'm not sure if it's bad filled... I also noticed my drag link was loose at the ends so I believe I need to replace that also.

When test driving after today's operation, my dash was lighting up with abs and ecs. I'm going to get it aligned tomorrow so will an alignment fix the abs/ecs issue? I also am still getting DW. I know you're questioning whether it's full DW or not but it shakes so violently I feel my wheels fall off if I don't slow down so in my opinion it's full DW but subsides when I slow to about 40mph.

As far as castor angle, I'm not quite sure what you mean or how to address that.

 

The alignment sheet will show what the number is.

When you add a lift, the axle housing rotates - the pinion points further up. As this happens, the caster automatically goes down. Stock caster is around 4.2 degrees. With a 3.25" lift, the printout might show it at little over 3 degrees, maybe? As this number goes down, the steering gets progressively flightier. Not deathwobble, not bumpsteer, just wandering.

To address it, you need to add components to rotate the housing back down. Cam Bolts, Drop Brackets, longer/shorter Fixed Control Arms, or Adjustable Control arms. (verify that you do not have cam bolts now, they sometimes come with that lift from RC. It looks like a big washer, but with the hole toward an edge and not the middle, and will be on the axle ends of both lower control arms. see post #16 in this thread)
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-issue-345178/

For the dash lights, is the steering wheel straight? Or turned to one side a bit while you are driving straight?

 

it's turned to one side while driving straight!

 

On the draglink, loosen the two bolts, twist the turnbuckle, then check the steering wheel. When centered, tighten the bolts and go for a drive. Or have the alignment shop do it. Should take care of the that issue, at least.