mccostlin

Good day to all,

Just picked up my 08 X 2d on saturday, I have found the answer to every question I have had on this site. Now I need some advice.

I do almost no off roading other than a couple of trips to the dunes each year where i just climb a few hills and cruise around.

My jeep is my daily driver, (26Mi one way to work each day) I also pull my motocross trailer with it (6X12 enclosed)

In my initial bliss I ordered a rough country 4" lift for it the other day, but after finding out it voids my warranty I am a little leary about putting it on right away (Jeep had 300mi right now).

I am assuming I fall in the "Needs new drive shafts" category due to the size of the lift. and I also will need gears if I go with 35" (4..88 Seems to be the consensus)

So my question is

is there a cheaper way out on the drive shafts for a guy in my situation

and what could I expect to pay in labor and parts for the gear change.

would I be crazy to go ahead and lift it now, or sell the kit on the forum and wait till I get 10-20k Miles on it to do the lift to ensure it isn't going to develop any problems. (it would take me a year to put the miles on)

I could sell the kit for 475.00 plus shipping (new still in unopened box)

thanks for your support and all the knowledge. (my wife hates the site already because I spend too much time on it )

armycop

If you don't want to off road much, you could save some cash and go with a 2.5" Budget Boost lift and run 35's. The 4" lift with the 2-door is pushing the limits of the driveshafts. A milder lift would cause fewer problems. The 35's will fit with spacers or a little trimming.

BLKRuby

Hello fellow Michigander!
My .02 cents...
If you are using your Jeep as a DD and mostly only cruise Silver Lake i would recommend a 3" lift. It will clear 35s and keep your CG lower. At 4" and a 2-door driveshafts will most def be needed. Gearing wise, unless you have 4:10s already, you will probably want to regear. Please shop around some shops for the install. I know of a few closer to the Ann Arbor area that are very reputable and reasonable priced that would probaby make it worth the drive.

As far as your waranty goes, just because you lift your vehicle does not mean the warranty is void. In short, the dealer must be able to PROVE that the lift, or any ohter aftermarket part, CAUSED the problem. Here are some links from SEMA that are the laws. Read them and understand them and almost all your questions will be answered. PM me if you have any questions or whatever.


http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=60127

http://www.sema.org/Main/SemaOrgHome.aspx?ID=50100

mccostlin

Can you PM me the names of the shops in ann arbor I could run down there if the price is reasonable.

thanks

Rubidonn

2.5" BB is probably your best bet w/35's. Warranty overall won't be voided but if they trace any issues you have to be caused by the lift, then 'yes' it won't be covered. Find yourself a 'lift friendly' dealer and you'll have less challenges there.

As far as gears and install. If you have a manual, go w/4.88's... auto go w/5.13's. Gears w/master kits are gonna run $700-ish. Install should run $800-$900.

MJS_Jeep_888

You should clarify Rubidonn... do you mean that he'll have to pay $700 for the gears, and $100-$200 for the labor, for a total of $800-$900, or that he'll be looking at a $1500-$1600 price tag when all's said and done (parts + labor)?

mccostlin

Can you dropt the transfer case an inch like we did with the TJ lifts would this solve the drive shaft problem, or is it designed different?

MJS_Jeep_888

Don't think that's an option on the JK's... I'm not lifted yet, so I can't say for sure. However, I think that the issues with the 2-drs driveline issues have to due with the improper geometry that a big lift puts on the shaft. Not positive, but I believe I was just reading some posts on here about shafts failing after only 3 - 10K miles...

If you're not going to off-road your JK, you'll probably be fine with a 2 - 2.5" BB, and then if you want to, you can throw on a 1" body lift or somesuch to give it the look you're going for...

BLKRuby

1100- 1600 parts and labor depending on the shop

armycop

Even with 3.73 or 4.10's, 35" tires are still drivable just 6th gear is useless. I have seen a base X with 35's and 3.21s though.