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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Need advice on going BIG.

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Old 03-04-2011, 06:52 PM
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GCM..... Yeah that was the first thing I did was cut the rear seams. The fronts look ok.
Old 03-04-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pingi3
GCM..... Yeah that was the first thing I did was cut the rear seams. The fronts look ok.
Cool brother, you are on it then. The fronts usually don't get cut on....usually. I saw a tan JK rubicon running around my neighborhood yesterday, looked damn good. It was completely stock, but looked great. Can't wait to see some photos of yours and any others that are lifted.
Old 03-04-2011, 09:18 PM
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Yeah.. I need to decide on a long arm kit stat. The ride stinks right now. I am more focused on the asthetics right now. When I went to another local store to pick up the fenders, they recomended the Pro Comp Lonng Arm kit with the drive shafts. I asked about the Teraflex but the guy said that he had just returned from Cali on a test to try out the new JK stuff from Pro Comp. He said it was the best ride he has experienced. At this point all I know is it will be a 6" long arm kit. I'm gonna research FabTech too.

I am starting to think I should have left the Bushwacker flats alone. But too late now. Im just trying to figure out where too cut the line where the black under coat will go up to. I wanted the Tan to wrap down to the bottom of the edge.

Can't wait till tomorrow to get back on the fenders.

I put in in a request for all Posion Spyder bumpers and the rocker guards. I think they look the best so far along with a Warn winch.

Stay tuned....
Old 04-11-2011, 11:21 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by njbeachrat
Not knowing how bad/strict the police are by you...but according to liftlaws dot com GA has a 2" max lift height?? I know first hand the NJ laws are enforced around my area..
this is GA, offoraders are born here every day .. I'm located in North Forsyth and theres trucks driving around with MASSIVE lifts.

as far as pingis jeep I've seen it around, it was the first one with the painted hardtop I had seen. as far as I know we have no issues with lift heights here.
Old 04-11-2011, 01:08 PM
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ping, I wish I had seen this earlier to offer my small bits of wisdom. Based upon what I have read from you so far, here is my $.02. My rig is pretty heavily pimped out, and I can say with a straight face, that my sled runs smoother, nicer, and more pleasant to drive than stock. There are no squeaks or weird noises at all, heck I don't even feel like my tires make that much noise. Will say the loudest & poorest performing tire I ever owned was those Nitto Terragrapplers on my Duramax with a 6" lift.

I have Teraflex 6" long arm on my rig and love it. Stay away from ProComp, just say no and never look back. The ProComp stuff is about the same $$$, but no where near the same quality IMO. To me, here is the big part, I recently broke my lift. Joe from TeraFlex helped me out with getting all new parts, zero cost and zero hassles. I told him what I broke, and new stuff was at my door 3 days later. I then had to call back after I got the new stuff on and realized I had some more stuff that was broken, same deal 3 days later new stuff at my door. There was no BS about send me your receipt, or send me the part and we will check it out. Just a nice conversation with a good guy who sent me new stuff without any hassles. I guarantee you will not get that kind of service ever from ProComp.

Put the spydertrac spacers on ASAP, it made a huge change in my over all ride, never dreamed that 3" would have done so much.

I put the EVO sleeves & gussets on my axles and its money well spent IMO.

I recently upgraded to the TeraFlex Elka shocks, so far I am happy with them.

I have 5:13 gears on my sled, some days I wish I had gone 5:38, but when I am running 85mph down the hwy I am glad I have 5:13's. I don't feel like I am lacking power or anything like that, just know that 5:38 would give a little more lower end but kill me on the upper end, and since I like to haul a$$, I went with the 5:13's.

I have 39" Mad Dog tires and love them. They are a great tire, zero complaints. I have mine on 20" wheels, my buddy has the same tire on 18" wheels, the look is the same.

I have not upgraded my brakes, and I don't think I will, I really have no complaints with the braking system using stock. I typically upgrade brakes on my other vehicles, but so far I don't feel like I am lacking.

I have the Bushwacker fenders, and don't have any complaints so far, so I bet you will be happy as well.

I don't have many close up of my tires, hopefully these two will help to give you a perspective.
Old 04-12-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DegoRed
ping, I wish I had seen this earlier to offer my small bits of wisdom. Based upon what I have read from you so far, here is my $.02. My rig is pretty heavily pimped out, and I can say with a straight face, that my sled runs smoother, nicer, and more pleasant to drive than stock. There are no squeaks or weird noises at all, heck I don't even feel like my tires make that much noise. Will say the loudest & poorest performing tire I ever owned was those Nitto Terragrapplers on my Duramax with a 6" lift.

I have Teraflex 6" long arm on my rig and love it. Stay away from ProComp, just say no and never look back. The ProComp stuff is about the same $$$, but no where near the same quality IMO. To me, here is the big part, I recently broke my lift. Joe from TeraFlex helped me out with getting all new parts, zero cost and zero hassles. I told him what I broke, and new stuff was at my door 3 days later. I then had to call back after I got the new stuff on and realized I had some more stuff that was broken, same deal 3 days later new stuff at my door. There was no BS about send me your receipt, or send me the part and we will check it out. Just a nice conversation with a good guy who sent me new stuff without any hassles. I guarantee you will not get that kind of service ever from ProComp.

Put the spydertrac spacers on ASAP, it made a huge change in my over all ride, never dreamed that 3" would have done so much.

I put the EVO sleeves & gussets on my axles and its money well spent IMO.

I recently upgraded to the TeraFlex Elka shocks, so far I am happy with them.

I have 5:13 gears on my sled, some days I wish I had gone 5:38, but when I am running 85mph down the hwy I am glad I have 5:13's. I don't feel like I am lacking power or anything like that, just know that 5:38 would give a little more lower end but kill me on the upper end, and since I like to haul a$$, I went with the 5:13's.

I have 39" Mad Dog tires and love them. They are a great tire, zero complaints. I have mine on 20" wheels, my buddy has the same tire on 18" wheels, the look is the same.

I have not upgraded my brakes, and I don't think I will, I really have no complaints with the braking system using stock. I typically upgrade brakes on my other vehicles, but so far I don't feel like I am lacking.

I have the Bushwacker fenders, and don't have any complaints so far, so I bet you will be happy as well.

I don't have many close up of my tires, hopefully these two will help to give you a perspective.
So the wheel spacers did that much? Can you please explain in detail to what it it exactly to handling. I have read it adds more stress on ball joints . Thanks in advance
Old 04-13-2011, 12:42 PM
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Silver, I am sure I am going to screw up this explanation, but I will try my best.

For quite a few years of my life, I drove race cars, all different types, but through the process I learned to identify how a car was driving so that adjustments could be made to improve the handling. Most all adjustments seemed to involve the front end, sometimes the back, but mostly the front.

By widening the front wheel space it changes the dynamic of how a vehicle turns. Sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse. IMO our Jeeps have a very narrow stance, and that by widening this stance it improves the handling and for me it also improved the turning. Keep in mind the higher up you go the more susceptible you are to body roll while turning and front end dive when braking. Now you change those variables with suspension, but the height issue will always affect your handling.

If your wheel going straight is at 0% turn and fully turned at 100% turn, I notice from about 50% turn to 100% there was a lot less push in the front end and a little better rotation through the turn with the wheel spacers than without.

There are two basic ways to make a turn, you can slow down before the turn, make the turn, and then accelerate out of the turn. This is the way most people drive. The other way to turn is to drive as deep into a turn as possible to carry as much speed as possible into the turn, let off the gas, brake as needed in the midst of the turn and accelerate once you get vehicle rotated. The first way has a much tighter apex than the second way, however the first way will typically take you longer to make the turn and you will typically lose more of your momentum & speed.

I typically drive with one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake(both feet on pedals at same time), with my foot leaving the brake to the clutch for shifting but then right back on the brake. I am usually applying gas through every turn I make, only braking enough to rotate my vehicle. Most people at first do not like to ride in cars with me, they are always afraid we are going to crash in turns, however after a while, most all my friends now love it because of how smooth I get through turns. But the first ride, you swear you are going to die with the amount of speed I usually carry into turns.

Most people probably do not realize any of this while driving nor put in much thought to the process or the result of making turns, they just drive. I hope this provide some explanation.
Old 04-13-2011, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DegoRed
Silver, I am sure I am going to screw up this explanation, but I will try my best.

For quite a few years of my life, I drove race cars, all different types, but through the process I learned to identify how a car was driving so that adjustments could be made to improve the handling. Most all adjustments seemed to involve the front end, sometimes the back, but mostly the front.

By widening the front wheel space it changes the dynamic of how a vehicle turns. Sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse. IMO our Jeeps have a very narrow stance, and that by widening this stance it improves the handling and for me it also improved the turning. Keep in mind the higher up you go the more susceptible you are to body roll while turning and front end dive when braking. Now you change those variables with suspension, but the height issue will always affect your handling.

If your wheel going straight is at 0% turn and fully turned at 100% turn, I notice from about 50% turn to 100% there was a lot less push in the front end and a little better rotation through the turn with the wheel spacers than without.

There are two basic ways to make a turn, you can slow down before the turn, make the turn, and then accelerate out of the turn. This is the way most people drive. The other way to turn is to drive as deep into a turn as possible to carry as much speed as possible into the turn, let off the gas, brake as needed in the midst of the turn and accelerate once you get vehicle rotated. The first way has a much tighter apex than the second way, however the first way will typically take you longer to make the turn and you will typically lose more of your momentum & speed.

I typically drive with one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake(both feet on pedals at same time), with my foot leaving the brake to the clutch for shifting but then right back on the brake. I am usually applying gas through every turn I make, only braking enough to rotate my vehicle. Most people at first do not like to ride in cars with me, they are always afraid we are going to crash in turns, however after a while, most all my friends now love it because of how smooth I get through turns. But the first ride, you swear you are going to die with the amount of speed I usually carry into turns.

Most people probably do not realize any of this while driving nor put in much thought to the process or the result of making turns, they just drive. I hope this provide some explanation.
Really? Seriously? Did you just completely pull this "technical explanation" out of your ass, because for a guy (you) who drove race cars for quite a few years of his life, that made no sense.
Old 04-13-2011, 09:13 PM
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I thought it made perfect sense. I like hearing other peoples experience.
Old 04-13-2011, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KING-JOUST
I thought it made perfect sense. I like hearing other peoples experience.
It doesn't make sense, it sounds like someone trying to regurgitate something they overheard in a conversation or read once in a magazine. If you actually have any track time, have been to a school and acquired formal training, hold a SCCA or NASA license, or are a "race car driver" it absolutely comes across as imposter. I understand what he was trying to get across, but he did it in a way that makes me doubt he has any actual experience in any of what he just wrote. It's the internet and it's easy to spout jibberish and forget that many of the recipients that will read this stuff are actual well versed and experienced in the topic being covered. The whole posting sounded fictional. Thats only my opinion, I hate seeing others misguided by misinformation.

Last edited by GCM 2; 04-13-2011 at 10:26 PM.


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