MikeSD

The only reason for 4.5" was because I was considering 37" tires instead of 35", when I put together my list of hardware. And since I have a 4 door, it might give better clearance on objects and help with the break-over angle. That's pretty much the only reasons. The only reason for bringing up rock crawling was that was the type of use that I was upgadring the vehicle toward. If lift has no bearing on use for rock crawling, then I guess that point is irrelevant. But 37" is still a possibility, although I think for my next set of tires I'm going with 35".

I am a little concerned about the long arm. I'm wondering how much of an issue the long arm is with contacting objects and being damaged.

Maertz

a 4 link suspension is a little vague, most 4 link suspensions include a track bar and is essentially the way they are from the factory. Did you mean a basic 4 link like most aftermarket kits or a single/double triangulated 4 link?

What long arm are you looking at, there are a few different ways each kit mounts if i recall correctly.

TheDirtman

If you are building for rock crawling go with the biggest tires you can, running 35's with a 4.5" lift is going to give you a little belly clearance but that is is. You will still be lacking clearance under the axles and will more unstable in off camber and climbing situations. This is pretty much what I wrote in the write up. Not sure what you are questioning.

Maertz

I agree with this, I ran damn near that exact set up in rocks and sometimes just to clear the dif had to pick some not so great lines. It managed ok for me, but long travel shocks helped bit. If i were to go that route again as dirt said id get larger tires.

MikeSD

I'm thinking about this one

I'm not questioning anything. Initially, I was just making sure I understood what you were saying. And later, only answering a question I was asked. Where did you get the idea I was "questioning" what you wrote?

Perhaps I should go with 37". That was my original goal. Sounds like 37" with the 4.5" R/E would be better than the 35" with same lift.

Thanks,

suprablaski

You can easily run 37s on 3.5" of lift, either use more bumpstop or flat fenders or most likely both


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MikeSD

I wish I knew more about this stuff. I suspect you can put 37" on a Jeep that wasn't lifted, if you wanted to start cutting away at it. I guess I wonder, if 37s will run on a 3.5" lift, why would anyone EVER get a higher lift? I've heard people say, "get the smallest lift to accommodate your tires" but is that always true? Or let's play devil's advocate and ask, "if one put 37" tires on their jeep, what justification would there be for ever going higher than 3.5" lift?"

Just trying to understand this subject.

suprablaski

With 37s on 3.5" lift and flats your still gonna be running a bit of bumpstop, more lift more shock less bump stop, more articulation. Though it's arguable that it's easier to get that articulation out of 35s


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Matthewd5

I finally did it and went with 37's and I have a 3" lift + a 1", whatever you call it, on top of my shocks to give me a total of 4" and Bushwacker flat fenders and it's all working well together.

what would be my next step to improve my off-road capabilities?

matthew

Maertz

i dont know of anything you can add to your shock to gain lift? Do you mean on top of your coil? As in a coil spacer? To me the next thing on a good lift height and strong build would just be to get some long travel shocks and make sure your coils can handle them...