Moving up to 37's... And once again the same old Axle question's
02-27-2014, 07:40 AM
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Moving up to 37's... And once again the same old Axle question's
I have been running 35's for a couple years, now it is time to graduate to 37's! I know to get C-Gussets installed up front (not on the rear, do they even make them for the rear?)... The question then becomes do I need new shafts? There seems to be a lot of mixed opinion about this out there.
If I do not get shafts I assume they become the weakest point on the axle, so (assuming there is somebody more automotive inclined than me on the trails to help) I could just carry a spare set of axle shafts in my Jeep when I go wheeling and do a field repair if necessary, or would I need more parts than that?
On the other side, if I do get new shafts what then becomes the weakest point (the diff? the sleeves?) and is that something that can be repaired in the field (again with basic tools and somebody who knows what they are doing)?
If I do not get shafts I assume they become the weakest point on the axle, so (assuming there is somebody more automotive inclined than me on the trails to help) I could just carry a spare set of axle shafts in my Jeep when I go wheeling and do a field repair if necessary, or would I need more parts than that?
On the other side, if I do get new shafts what then becomes the weakest point (the diff? the sleeves?) and is that something that can be repaired in the field (again with basic tools and somebody who knows what they are doing)?
02-27-2014, 07:51 AM
#2
I have been running 35's for a couple years, now it is time to graduate to 37's! I know to get C-Gussets installed up front (not on the rear, do they even make them for the rear?)... The question then becomes do I need new shafts? There seems to be a lot of mixed opinion about this out there.
If I do not get shafts I assume they become the weakest point on the axle, so (assuming there is somebody more automotive inclined than me on the trails to help) I could just carry a spare set of axle shafts in my Jeep when I go wheeling and do a field repair if necessary, or would I need more parts than that?
On the other side, if I do get new shafts what then becomes the weakest point (the diff? the sleeves?) and is that something that can be repaired in the field (again with basic tools and somebody who knows what they are doing)?
If I do not get shafts I assume they become the weakest point on the axle, so (assuming there is somebody more automotive inclined than me on the trails to help) I could just carry a spare set of axle shafts in my Jeep when I go wheeling and do a field repair if necessary, or would I need more parts than that?
On the other side, if I do get new shafts what then becomes the weakest point (the diff? the sleeves?) and is that something that can be repaired in the field (again with basic tools and somebody who knows what they are doing)?
02-27-2014, 09:45 AM
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Chromo's for the rear are pretty reasonably priced. I believe you can get a set of G2 shafts with a lifetime warranty, tone rings and bearings pressed on for around the $275 range. For the front, I'd try to pick up a set of new (2012+) D30 take-offs from someone who upgraded their shafts. The new D30 have larger ears and u-joints, yet they will still be your weak point, which is what you want since you are already regeared. And they can be swapped in the field with basic tools and a 35mm(?) socket for the spindle nut.
I figure that I would do that, have a spare set of factory shafts, if I do not replace them all together. I didn't know that about the 2012+ models though, I guess they did that because of the extra torque and HP?
To make sure I understand you correctly, you are saying that because I have already re-geared, strengthening my shafts will mean that the most likely failure would be at the gears which be a far more difficult and expensive fix?
02-27-2014, 10:01 AM
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I figure that I would do that, have a spare set of factory shafts, if I do not replace them all together. I didn't know that about the 2012+ models though, I guess they did that because of the extra torque and HP? To make sure I understand you correctly, you are saying that because I have already re-geared, strengthening my shafts will mean that the most likely failure would be at the gears which be a far more difficult and expensive fix?
02-27-2014, 02:03 PM
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So you are telling me that even with chrome shafts, they will still be the most likely breaking point? If that is the case then I see no issue with upgrading to chrome shafts...
Sorry if I am beating a dead horse, I just want to make sure I am thinking about this correctly. I do not want to break anything out on the trails, but if I do, I want the odds in favor of that part being the cheapest and easiest part to replace.