Mopar lifts
11-25-2019, 05:04 PM
#11
JK Newbie
Just finished my '13
Just finished this today with
Biltstein 5100s
EMU medium coil springs and
Falkner 33s
Perfect for a daily driver.
Last edited by L2R; 11-25-2019 at 05:09 PM.
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WheelinWillyFifteen (11-25-2019)
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WheelinWillyFifteen (11-25-2019)
11-25-2019, 05:16 PM
#13
Super Moderator
Given what I outlined above. What the dealer is really saying is that they will warranty any of the parts of the Mopar lift AND the replacement labor for those parts which is a 2 year warranty. Then additionally if you still had any factory warranty left, you would be able to rest your mind at ease that the factory part's replacement and the labor work would be covered as well "If" the lift or the labor installing it was ever determined to be the cause of the failure.
11-25-2019, 05:19 PM
#14
Super Moderator
https://www.mopar.com/content/dam/mo..._statement.pdf
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Jay2013jk (11-30-2019)
11-25-2019, 05:25 PM
#15
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
There tends to be a lot of confusion in regards to "Warranty" when it comes to lifts. Let me attempt to explain it, in regards to the Mopar lift since dealers tend to mess it up, or just try to keep it simple and use it as a selling point.
Of course, most of this won't matter if you don't currently have a factory warranty.
It goes like this, you start off with your factory warranty. If you install ANY lift, they can not void your factory warranty but you do take on a risk that when you go in for Warranty repair work, you could be at their mercy if they determine the failure of the factory part you are trying to get repaired under a warranty claim, if the dealership determines the lift or the labor installing the lift was caused by the lift. So in other words if you went in for warranty repair for your radio malfunctioning, then it's a far stretch to think the lift or the installation could be contributed to the radio failing. Now if one of your lift shocks snapped or let loose due to a bad shock or installation of that shock, then the shock punctured your tire, tore your brakes apart, then you shouldn't expect the factory warranty to cover any of that damage.
When you purchase the Mopar lift AND have the lift installed by an FCA dealership, then the Mopar lift has additional warranty coverage that other lifts don't include. Think of it as gap insurance coverage. So now if you have a failure to a factory part and bring your rig in for a warranty repair AND the failure was determined to be caused by the lift or its installation, the factory warranty would still not cover the repair...BUT, this is where the Mopar lift warranty now kicks in which comes with the Mopar lift. The Mopar lift warranty will cover the repair of any failures to the lift parts as well as any of the factory parts that were determined to fail/get damaged due to the lift or the installation labor of the lift. Thus, in essence at the end of the day you still maintain your factory warranty for repair of the factory parts, but the cost of the warranty claim repairs are now covered under the Mopar lift warranty and still not under your factory warranty. If the same thing was determined where another aftermarket lift and its components were the cause of the failure of a factory part, then the scenario is the same that the "factory" warranty would not cover the repair of those factory parts. This is really the difference between the Mopar lift warranty and any other aftermarket lift warranty. Most aftermarket lifts come with their own warranty, where they strictly warranty their parts of the lift, but they do not warranty the factory parts and the labor involved "If" those lift parts were determined to be the cause of the factory part's failure. The Mopar lift warranty covers not only the repair/replacement of the lift components but also ANY of the factory parts and the labor involved that may have gotten damaged due to lift parts or poor installation of the lift components.
The Mopar lift additionally comes with a 2 year parts warranty regardless if you had it installed by an FCA dealership or not and labor costs "If" you had it installed by an FCA dealership.
I have the Mopar 2in lift, I installed it myself. Thus, I had a 2 year warranty for the lift parts replacement, but since I didn't pay an FCA dealership to install it, then obviously the Mopar lift warranty would not cover labor costs for any labor work involved for the replacement repair.
BTW the Mopar 2in lift gave me 3.25in of lift in the front and 3.0in of lift in the rear with factory weight. So about 3inches of total lift overall. I then added a larger spare, HD tire carrier and steel bumper in the rear. In the front I added a steel bumper, steel skid plate, winch plate, and a 12K winch. I'm now sitting at about 2.5in of total lift with 35s.
Of course, most of this won't matter if you don't currently have a factory warranty.
It goes like this, you start off with your factory warranty. If you install ANY lift, they can not void your factory warranty but you do take on a risk that when you go in for Warranty repair work, you could be at their mercy if they determine the failure of the factory part you are trying to get repaired under a warranty claim, if the dealership determines the lift or the labor installing the lift was caused by the lift. So in other words if you went in for warranty repair for your radio malfunctioning, then it's a far stretch to think the lift or the installation could be contributed to the radio failing. Now if one of your lift shocks snapped or let loose due to a bad shock or installation of that shock, then the shock punctured your tire, tore your brakes apart, then you shouldn't expect the factory warranty to cover any of that damage.
When you purchase the Mopar lift AND have the lift installed by an FCA dealership, then the Mopar lift has additional warranty coverage that other lifts don't include. Think of it as gap insurance coverage. So now if you have a failure to a factory part and bring your rig in for a warranty repair AND the failure was determined to be caused by the lift or its installation, the factory warranty would still not cover the repair...BUT, this is where the Mopar lift warranty now kicks in which comes with the Mopar lift. The Mopar lift warranty will cover the repair of any failures to the lift parts as well as any of the factory parts that were determined to fail/get damaged due to the lift or the installation labor of the lift. Thus, in essence at the end of the day you still maintain your factory warranty for repair of the factory parts, but the cost of the warranty claim repairs are now covered under the Mopar lift warranty and still not under your factory warranty. If the same thing was determined where another aftermarket lift and its components were the cause of the failure of a factory part, then the scenario is the same that the "factory" warranty would not cover the repair of those factory parts. This is really the difference between the Mopar lift warranty and any other aftermarket lift warranty. Most aftermarket lifts come with their own warranty, where they strictly warranty their parts of the lift, but they do not warranty the factory parts and the labor involved "If" those lift parts were determined to be the cause of the factory part's failure. The Mopar lift warranty covers not only the repair/replacement of the lift components but also ANY of the factory parts and the labor involved that may have gotten damaged due to lift parts or poor installation of the lift components.
The Mopar lift additionally comes with a 2 year parts warranty regardless if you had it installed by an FCA dealership or not and labor costs "If" you had it installed by an FCA dealership.
I have the Mopar 2in lift, I installed it myself. Thus, I had a 2 year warranty for the lift parts replacement, but since I didn't pay an FCA dealership to install it, then obviously the Mopar lift warranty would not cover labor costs for any labor work involved for the replacement repair.
BTW the Mopar 2in lift gave me 3.25in of lift in the front and 3.0in of lift in the rear with factory weight. So about 3inches of total lift overall. I then added a larger spare, HD tire carrier and steel bumper in the rear. In the front I added a steel bumper, steel skid plate, winch plate, and a 12K winch. I'm now sitting at about 2.5in of total lift with 35s.
Last edited by WheelinWillyFifteen; 11-25-2019 at 05:28 PM.
11-25-2019, 05:52 PM
#16
Super Moderator
P.
The Mopar lift is perfect for what you described. I have it and it's a good lift which rides well. I've had it on my rig for just over 4 years with no regrets, my rig is my daily driver. With that said, the majority of lifts are not "complete" and that includes the Mopar 2in lift. So plan on adding to it in the future.
What I mean by this is that if you only plan to lift your JK, then yeah...the Mopar 2in lift is a "complete" lift, but most of us lift our Jeeps to put larger tires on it. It's when you put those larger tires on, you then realize the need for the additional parts. Many of us go with 35in tries and here would be the additional components I would recommend once you add those larger 35in tires. You may be ok, if you go with 33s and not need these items.
1a. Scrap the install of the Mopar included cam bolts as suggested earlier. They work but the install requires the front axle control arm brackets to be ground out and its better to not have that done because undoing it is kind of a mess. Instead look into getting some geo correction brackets as Jadmt recommended earlier. AEV geo correction brackets are good, Rancho geo correction brackets are better.
1b. Instead of Geo correction brackets, replace the factory front lower control arms with adjustable front lower control arms
Cam bolts, Geo correction brackets, and Front lower adjustable control arms are all intended for the same purpose of re-adjusting caster after you lift. They all have trade-offs. Geo correction brackets will provide the best ride.
2. Programmer.
Your speedo and shift points will be off, you need a programmer to tell the ECM that you now have 35in tires installed.
3. HD adjustable front track bar
4. HD tie rod
5. HD drag link
The additional weight and pavement tread contact of the larger tires will cause those above factory parts to flex which translates into loose steering and in a lot of cases eventual death wobble. You can hold off for some time and evaluate for yourself on items 3-5 and make a decision later but expect your steering to not feel as responsive and firm in the mean-time after installing larger 35in tires.
5. HD ball joints
Again the additional weight of the larger tires will cause the factory ball joints to wear out rather quickly. You'll eventually end up replacing these but you should be able to hold off for awhile and replace when needed.
6. Big Brake kit
Yeah, your stopping is going to decrease pushing those heavier tires. So keep this in mind once you've had time to evaluate.
7. Re-gear front/rear axles.
For a 2012+ and 35s, 4.56 or 4.88 gears are often recommended. Again due to heavier/larger tires your acceleration you once felt will be lacking. This is pricey, so evaluate for yourself if you can live without this mod or not. I've done all the rest besides this one, and this is definitely on my tudo list.
So yeah....a "complete" lift, the Mopar 2in lift is a complete lift if you don't plan on going with anything larger than stock tires. The larger tires drive the need for all the things I mentioned above aside for the caster adjustment which is always needed after lifting. The Mopar lift includes Cam bolts for caster adjustment correction which is the least expensive solution, but many agree its definitely not something you want if you plan on keeping your rig for awhile.
P.S. Let me know if I missed anything fellas.
JEEP=Just Empty Every Pocket
inwas at the dealer sat and I thought it was up. And it may be. My salesman said it’s 5 year 100k ...... oh well I just figured what the dealer would put on the Jeep should not need anything besides what is in the lift kit. I was hoping with the 2 inch mopar kit I wouldn’t need anything else and It’s on them if something goes wrong lol. I’m prolly wrong
What I mean by this is that if you only plan to lift your JK, then yeah...the Mopar 2in lift is a "complete" lift, but most of us lift our Jeeps to put larger tires on it. It's when you put those larger tires on, you then realize the need for the additional parts. Many of us go with 35in tries and here would be the additional components I would recommend once you add those larger 35in tires. You may be ok, if you go with 33s and not need these items.
1a. Scrap the install of the Mopar included cam bolts as suggested earlier. They work but the install requires the front axle control arm brackets to be ground out and its better to not have that done because undoing it is kind of a mess. Instead look into getting some geo correction brackets as Jadmt recommended earlier. AEV geo correction brackets are good, Rancho geo correction brackets are better.
1b. Instead of Geo correction brackets, replace the factory front lower control arms with adjustable front lower control arms
Cam bolts, Geo correction brackets, and Front lower adjustable control arms are all intended for the same purpose of re-adjusting caster after you lift. They all have trade-offs. Geo correction brackets will provide the best ride.
2. Programmer.
Your speedo and shift points will be off, you need a programmer to tell the ECM that you now have 35in tires installed.
3. HD adjustable front track bar
4. HD tie rod
5. HD drag link
The additional weight and pavement tread contact of the larger tires will cause those above factory parts to flex which translates into loose steering and in a lot of cases eventual death wobble. You can hold off for some time and evaluate for yourself on items 3-5 and make a decision later but expect your steering to not feel as responsive and firm in the mean-time after installing larger 35in tires.
5. HD ball joints
Again the additional weight of the larger tires will cause the factory ball joints to wear out rather quickly. You'll eventually end up replacing these but you should be able to hold off for awhile and replace when needed.
6. Big Brake kit
Yeah, your stopping is going to decrease pushing those heavier tires. So keep this in mind once you've had time to evaluate.
7. Re-gear front/rear axles.
For a 2012+ and 35s, 4.56 or 4.88 gears are often recommended. Again due to heavier/larger tires your acceleration you once felt will be lacking. This is pricey, so evaluate for yourself if you can live without this mod or not. I've done all the rest besides this one, and this is definitely on my tudo list.
So yeah....a "complete" lift, the Mopar 2in lift is a complete lift if you don't plan on going with anything larger than stock tires. The larger tires drive the need for all the things I mentioned above aside for the caster adjustment which is always needed after lifting. The Mopar lift includes Cam bolts for caster adjustment correction which is the least expensive solution, but many agree its definitely not something you want if you plan on keeping your rig for awhile.
P.S. Let me know if I missed anything fellas.
JEEP=Just Empty Every Pocket
Last edited by Rednroll; 11-25-2019 at 06:16 PM.
11-25-2019, 06:00 PM
#17
Super Moderator
thank you.... in my case I’m new to this and I believe im better off having this work done by someone who can be held responsible.. also you installed your own so what else did you have to change or add to run your 35s .... and would a good dealer tell me straight out what I would need for the Jeep to be done correctly. And what I mean is I basically want to know what I need besides the lift kit itself for the Jeep to run right. As said before I’m new to this and I’m not looking to go be climbing 4 ft boulders.... however I would like my Jeep to be more capable then I need. I don’t want to be goin to the limits and ending up destroying it. Do you understand. I want hit some trials but I’m not looking to be that outgoing. I’m more of a keep it in one piece kinda guy.
Another thing you will need is new wheels if going with 35s. The additional width of the tires will cause your tires to rub when you steer with the factory wheels. For 35s, 4.5in backspace wheels are recommended. The factory wheels are 6.25" back space if I recall correctly, which doesn't push the wider tires out far enough from the wheel well. A cheaper solution instead of replacing the wheels is to use 1.5in wheel spacers. They push the factory wheels out further from the wheel well to gain that additional steering clearance.
You're in the same boat as I was when I 1st started out, where I gave you what took me almost 4 years of reading on this forum to figure out. I'm also a keep it in one piece and more geared towards hitting sand hills, snow, muddy fields and the back woods while maintaining a good on road ride. Rock crawling does not look fun to me at all. However, I did learn climbing some of the bigger sand hills without the axle re-gears did reach my current limits and now that is on my tudo list.
Last edited by Rednroll; 11-25-2019 at 06:19 PM.
11-25-2019, 07:25 PM
#18
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
P.
The Mopar lift is perfect for what you described. I have it and it's a good lift which rides well. I've had it on my rig for just over 4 years with no regrets, my rig is my daily driver. With that said, the majority of lifts are not "complete" and that includes the Mopar 2in lift. So plan on adding to it in the future.
What I mean by this is that if you only plan to lift your JK, then yeah...the Mopar 2in lift is a "complete" lift, but most of us lift our Jeeps to put larger tires on it. It's when you put those larger tires on, you then realize the need for the additional parts. Many of us go with 35in tries and here would be the additional components I would recommend once you add those larger 35in tires. You may be ok, if you go with 33s and not need these items.
1a. Scrap the install of the Mopar included cam bolts as suggested earlier. They work but the install requires the front axle control arm brackets to be ground out and its better to not have that done because undoing it is kind of a mess. Instead look into getting some geo correction brackets as Jadmt recommended earlier. AEV geo correction brackets are good, Rancho geo correction brackets are better.
1b. Instead of Geo correction brackets, replace the factory front lower control arms with adjustable front lower control arms
Cam bolts, Geo correction brackets, and Front lower adjustable control arms are all intended for the same purpose of re-adjusting caster after you lift. They all have trade-offs. Geo correction brackets will provide the best ride.
2. Programmer.
Your speedo and shift points will be off, you need a programmer to tell the ECM that you now have 35in tires installed.
3. HD adjustable front track bar
4. HD tie rod
5. HD drag link
The additional weight and pavement tread contact of the larger tires will cause those above factory parts to flex which translates into loose steering and in a lot of cases eventual death wobble. You can hold off for some time and evaluate for yourself on items 3-5 and make a decision later but expect your steering to not feel as responsive and firm in the mean-time after installing larger 35in tires.
5. HD ball joints
Again the additional weight of the larger tires will cause the factory ball joints to wear out rather quickly. You'll eventually end up replacing these but you should be able to hold off for awhile and replace when needed.
6. Big Brake kit
Yeah, your stopping is going to decrease pushing those heavier tires. So keep this in mind once you've had time to evaluate.
7. Re-gear front/rear axles.
For a 2012+ and 35s, 4.56 or 4.88 gears are often recommended. Again due to heavier/larger tires your acceleration you once felt will be lacking. This is pricey, so evaluate for yourself if you can live without this mod or not. I've done all the rest besides this one, and this is definitely on my tudo list.
So yeah....a "complete" lift, the Mopar 2in lift is a complete lift if you don't plan on going with anything larger than stock tires. The larger tires drive the need for all the things I mentioned above aside for the caster adjustment which is always needed after lifting. The Mopar lift includes Cam bolts for caster adjustment correction which is the least expensive solution, but many agree its definitely not something you want if you plan on keeping your rig for awhile.
P.S. Let me know if I missed anything fellas.
JEEP=Just Empty Every Pocket
The Mopar lift is perfect for what you described. I have it and it's a good lift which rides well. I've had it on my rig for just over 4 years with no regrets, my rig is my daily driver. With that said, the majority of lifts are not "complete" and that includes the Mopar 2in lift. So plan on adding to it in the future.
What I mean by this is that if you only plan to lift your JK, then yeah...the Mopar 2in lift is a "complete" lift, but most of us lift our Jeeps to put larger tires on it. It's when you put those larger tires on, you then realize the need for the additional parts. Many of us go with 35in tries and here would be the additional components I would recommend once you add those larger 35in tires. You may be ok, if you go with 33s and not need these items.
1a. Scrap the install of the Mopar included cam bolts as suggested earlier. They work but the install requires the front axle control arm brackets to be ground out and its better to not have that done because undoing it is kind of a mess. Instead look into getting some geo correction brackets as Jadmt recommended earlier. AEV geo correction brackets are good, Rancho geo correction brackets are better.
1b. Instead of Geo correction brackets, replace the factory front lower control arms with adjustable front lower control arms
Cam bolts, Geo correction brackets, and Front lower adjustable control arms are all intended for the same purpose of re-adjusting caster after you lift. They all have trade-offs. Geo correction brackets will provide the best ride.
2. Programmer.
Your speedo and shift points will be off, you need a programmer to tell the ECM that you now have 35in tires installed.
3. HD adjustable front track bar
4. HD tie rod
5. HD drag link
The additional weight and pavement tread contact of the larger tires will cause those above factory parts to flex which translates into loose steering and in a lot of cases eventual death wobble. You can hold off for some time and evaluate for yourself on items 3-5 and make a decision later but expect your steering to not feel as responsive and firm in the mean-time after installing larger 35in tires.
5. HD ball joints
Again the additional weight of the larger tires will cause the factory ball joints to wear out rather quickly. You'll eventually end up replacing these but you should be able to hold off for awhile and replace when needed.
6. Big Brake kit
Yeah, your stopping is going to decrease pushing those heavier tires. So keep this in mind once you've had time to evaluate.
7. Re-gear front/rear axles.
For a 2012+ and 35s, 4.56 or 4.88 gears are often recommended. Again due to heavier/larger tires your acceleration you once felt will be lacking. This is pricey, so evaluate for yourself if you can live without this mod or not. I've done all the rest besides this one, and this is definitely on my tudo list.
So yeah....a "complete" lift, the Mopar 2in lift is a complete lift if you don't plan on going with anything larger than stock tires. The larger tires drive the need for all the things I mentioned above aside for the caster adjustment which is always needed after lifting. The Mopar lift includes Cam bolts for caster adjustment correction which is the least expensive solution, but many agree its definitely not something you want if you plan on keeping your rig for awhile.
P.S. Let me know if I missed anything fellas.
JEEP=Just Empty Every Pocket
11-25-2019, 08:21 PM
#19
Super Moderator
I couldn't tell you on labor costs. I'm an avid DIYer even if I don't know what I'm doing. I enjoy the learning experience and rather invest the money saved into tools I don't own to do the job.
Prior to Lift Install:
Big Brake Kit (BBK): $800-$1200
Same time as lift install.
1. HD Front adjustable track bar. $225-$300
2. Adjustable lower control arms $225-$300 or Rancho geo correction brackets $150
After lift install.
3. 17x9x4.5 Wheels and 35in Tires ($2K) and Programmer $100-$300
4. HD Tie Rod and HD Drag Link ($500-$700)
5. HD Ball Joints $200-$500
Re-gear with labor
$2K-$3.5K (Adding traction devices such as lockers or LSDs is often recommended doing at same time as gears if you currently have open differentials, and is the reason for higher end of price for those additions. I have open differentials and would like to install LSDs front and rear. LSDs are better for snow, and arguably better for sand as well. Lockers better for rock crawling.
Prior to Lift Install:
Big Brake Kit (BBK): $800-$1200
Same time as lift install.
1. HD Front adjustable track bar. $225-$300
2. Adjustable lower control arms $225-$300 or Rancho geo correction brackets $150
After lift install.
3. 17x9x4.5 Wheels and 35in Tires ($2K) and Programmer $100-$300
4. HD Tie Rod and HD Drag Link ($500-$700)
5. HD Ball Joints $200-$500
Re-gear with labor
$2K-$3.5K (Adding traction devices such as lockers or LSDs is often recommended doing at same time as gears if you currently have open differentials, and is the reason for higher end of price for those additions. I have open differentials and would like to install LSDs front and rear. LSDs are better for snow, and arguably better for sand as well. Lockers better for rock crawling.
Last edited by Rednroll; 11-25-2019 at 08:24 PM.
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Rancho (11-26-2019)
11-26-2019, 12:45 AM
#20
JK Jedi
wow that’s what I needed. If you had to estimate the cost and labor for all of that I’m just gonna guess it’s an easy 7k. Maybe I opt for 33s with the lift by spring and take it from there. But seriously thank you for that breakdown and the time you took to write. Matter of fact I don’t want to miss anyone else taking time to respond to me .... dirtman took a lot of time which me also. What I need to do is set a budget and take it from there. I’m thinkin I can drop 3k into her by the time spring comes around so I’ll need to rethink what a longer term goal will be for me.