Mopar 2" lift
#1
Mopar 2" lift
Hello Jeep owners and enthusiasts.
I am new to this forum and not quite sure how to navigate to the right place to post this question.
We recently purchased our first Jeep. Our 10th 4WD but 1st Jeep. Ordered a 2016 Rubicon Hard Rock.
Had the dealer install the Warn winch and the Mopar 2" lift kit in order to run 35" tires. My question is this:
I notice that no one offers a front driveshaft with their lift kits. The Mopar kit came with a new driveshaft.
Was this really necessary with only a 2" lift?
What is the difference between the stock shaft and the one that comes in their Kit?
Can I run the stock shaft to get me off the trail should I have a problem with the new one?
Any input from the jeep community would be helpful. Thanks
I am new to this forum and not quite sure how to navigate to the right place to post this question.
We recently purchased our first Jeep. Our 10th 4WD but 1st Jeep. Ordered a 2016 Rubicon Hard Rock.
Had the dealer install the Warn winch and the Mopar 2" lift kit in order to run 35" tires. My question is this:
I notice that no one offers a front driveshaft with their lift kits. The Mopar kit came with a new driveshaft.
Was this really necessary with only a 2" lift?
What is the difference between the stock shaft and the one that comes in their Kit?
Can I run the stock shaft to get me off the trail should I have a problem with the new one?
Any input from the jeep community would be helpful. Thanks
#2
Aftermarket shafts are narrower, more clearance for the exhaust. With the stock shaft, some lift mfg's offer cheap spacers to move the exhaust, or some people have a shop cut and relocate.
Aftermarket shafts have an option of swapping the flange/yoke, or using some type of an adapter plate. Depending on what came with the new shaft, you may not be able to use the stock one any longer.
You will also want to check the joints on the new shaft. Some come with sealed joints, others have joints with grease zerks that will need attention as part of regular maintenance. If the center ball on the double joint at the tcase end of the shaft has a zerk, you will physically need to remove the shaft in order to grease it.
Aftermarket shafts have an option of swapping the flange/yoke, or using some type of an adapter plate. Depending on what came with the new shaft, you may not be able to use the stock one any longer.
You will also want to check the joints on the new shaft. Some come with sealed joints, others have joints with grease zerks that will need attention as part of regular maintenance. If the center ball on the double joint at the tcase end of the shaft has a zerk, you will physically need to remove the shaft in order to grease it.
Last edited by nthinuf; 10-18-2015 at 02:47 PM.
#3
I haven't compared the two so I really had no idea. I thought that the exhaust spacers were necessary if you lifted 3" or more to clear the DS when suspension flexed but wasn't aware there would be an issue with the 2 " lift. Thanks for the info. Will have to look carefully at what the dealer did for sure.
#4
They're trying to sell a product but if you watch it and think about it, you'll see why the driveshaft or spacers are recommended even at a lower lift.
https://youtu.be/s2CQD68LHSg
https://youtu.be/s2CQD68LHSg
#5
[QUOTE=karls10jk;4152856]They're trying to sell a product but if you watch it and think about it, you'll see why the driveshaft or spacers are recommended even at a lower lift.
Informative video. Looks like I'll have to really look closely at what they really did under there.
Thanks
Informative video. Looks like I'll have to really look closely at what they really did under there.
Thanks